'83 KZ440D Cafe/Brat Build

The electrolysis worked even better than I expected. If anyone needs to clean up rusty parts and doesn't have easy access to a blaster, I strongly suggest giving it a try. When I pulled the pipes out they were covered in black grit that I can only assume was the rust. It wipes away easily enough. The only place I had trouble with it was at the Y where the rust had actually begun to pit the metal. But a few minutes with a wire brush fixed that.

With that sorted out I got out the paint and went to work on the headers and engine. I'm happy with how they turned out, especially since VHT comes in a rattle can. Going to let them dry for several days before I put it back in the frame.

Between layers I worked on other little stuff. Changed the rear shoes and shocks, put on the license plate holder, put on the front rotor and brakes, finished setting up the handle bars, and tried and failed at installing the headlight. Turns out the stock bracket doesn't work with clip-on handlebars. Have to cut it down and then it will work.

This week I want to get everything reinstalled. If that happens then all I will have left to do is build the wiring harness and re-jet the carbs which means I am still on schedule to meet my April 1st deadline.
 

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Am very interested in seeing how the VHT paint adheres to the electrolysis-treated headers long-term. Did you use any other method to improve paint adhesion (wire brushing, sanding, etc.)? I have a chromed front fender that I cut down and soaked in phosphoric acid to neutralize the rust. I then painted it with a self-etching primer. In some handling of the fender (different mount/unmounts operations to see different options) I noticed a couple spots where the chrome is showing through. If electrolysis works well to "prime" a chromed header then it should work even better for other, non-stressed chrome-plated parts prior to painting.
 
zap2504 said:
Am very interested in seeing how the VHT paint adheres to the electrolysis-treated headers long-term. Did you use any other method to improve paint adhesion (wire brushing, sanding, etc.)? I have a chromed front fender that I cut down and soaked in phosphoric acid to neutralize the rust. I then painted it with a self-etching primer. In some handling of the fender (different mount/unmounts operations to see different options) I noticed a couple spots where the chrome is showing through. If electrolysis works well to "prime" a chromed header then it should work even better for other, non-stressed chrome-plated parts prior to painting.
You need to take the chrome down to nickel or below to get paint to adhere well. Self-etching primer does not etch the chrome, and chrome is too hard for good adhesion.
 
deviant said:
You need to take the chrome down to nickel or below to get paint to adhere well. Self-etching primer does not etch the chrome, and chrome is too hard for good adhesion.
I had read that you could sand the (non-stressed) chrome surface with 220-320 grit paper and the self-etching primer would work fine, so that's what I tried. It is still mostly holding well, just a couple of shiny dots showing through. Maybe not sanded well enough? Maybe not cleaned well enough? Maybe it does need to be blasted to base metal first?
 
zap2504 said:
I had read that you could sand the (non-stressed) chrome surface with 220-320 grit paper and the self-etching primer would work fine, so that's what I tried. It is still mostly holding well, just a couple of shiny dots showing through. Maybe not sanded well enough? Maybe not cleaned well enough? Maybe it does need to be blasted to base metal first?
I might be in trouble then. I assumed since it is header paint that it is meant to go over the chrome since that is how headers almost always going to come that way. I did scuff the surface with sand paper. If it doesn't hold up I will just have to do it correctly next winter.

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trolltoll14- would like to see how you rewired the electrical while utilizing the tray. Have you got anything that you can share? i'm about to start mine but not sure how to lay it out properly.
 
I used BBQ paint that had to be cured with high heat, I pointed my 500w work lamp at a section at a time, the downpipes weren't chrome though. I've never really got on with VHT.
 
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