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Sure did. What I did was wipe em down, douse them in water and then very cautiously hit em with the heat gun. They weren't anything more than warm to the touch but it did the trick.
Carb bowl fixed. Completed the battery box, had that and the front fork brace coated. Fabricated a license plate mount. Cleaned up the wiring a bit more and here she be! Rode her to the gas station and back Friday evening. Just waiting on my tail light and she'll be more or less road ready.
Could use a mirror and perhaps tach and/or speedo eventually...
The mufflers came with internal baffles. I may consider doing my own pack job on them down the road, but honestly I'm ok with the sound. It's loud-ish, but not offensive.
Super happy with the seat. Another member referred me to Ginger at New Church Moto out in Oregon who did my work.
I had good experience making my seat pan from 16g steal and having Pem nuts pressed in so I can bolt her finished product right on. Pre drill your holes where it will attach to the frame before you pain/powdercoat and you're golden. Very clean result.
I went the Radiantz LED strip tail for simplicity of integrating signals into it. All is working as expected with one exception... the running light flickers quite crazy. Brake light front and rear is solid (though I realized my front brake switch was bad but that's an easy fix). Turn signals work... all at full illumination.
So before I go and add a capacitor I want to make sure this isn't indicative of something that should receive greater attention.
Everything on the bike is DC, except the rectifier.
The brown wire comes from the ignition switch and the input, when in park, is the red wire. When on, the brown/white wire will feed power to the brown wire.
The problem is likely to be EMI (Electromagnetic Interference).
Your harness is likely passing very closely to the ignition coils or spark plug wires and the magnetism is transferring into your harness. Because LEDs require so little power to run, they can be sensitive to these things.
The first thing to check is if the flickering increases with RPMs. If so, try to reroute the harness. If that's not possible, you can wrap it in aluminum foil near the coils and then run a spare wire to ground out the foil to the frame.
So I checked the multimeter when the bike is running.
Both the brake engaged and the running light are going bananas when the bike is running. Into the 30v range. When I rev I see the voltage spike up above 60 volts!
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