A CB360 Build

Ah, haven't measured battery when running. I see what you're getting at. I can test later tonight.


Sent from my iPhone
 
mchltshcr said:
So I checked the multimeter when the bike is running.

Both the brake engaged and the running light are going bananas when the bike is running. Into the 30v range. When I rev I see the voltage spike up above 60 volts!


Sent from my iPhone

Check to make sure your multimeter doesn't have an auto range and it's swapping between millivolts and Volts. I'm pretty sure something would have burned up at 60v DC.
 
What frequency does the stator put out? I can attempt to replicate 20-30vAC fed into the regulator and check battery readings. That seems like it would validate if the regulator is defective or not.


Sent from my iPhone
 
For others who come across this I'm documenting my remaining trials:

1. Test engine ground to all stator wires except red-striped neutral (pink, yellow, white)
2. Test continuity amongst all wires again (pink to yellow, pink to white, white to yellow)
3. Test vAC from stator across pink/yellow and pink/white at idle and while revving again
4. Test battery vDC across terminals at idle with stator unplugged

From what I've read it's pointing to a faulty regulator as Sonreir suggested, however I'm not convinced all is well from the stator... although I'm seeing vAC as expected so far. Second tests will validate for sure later today.

Huge thanks for the help thus far.
 
1. All wires when grounded show "1" on the Ohm rating.

2. Continuity only shows a result from pink to white on the stator wires (no result on pink yellow or white yellow)

3. I see an increase of vAC when I rev. It's hard to pin down with such swings on this multimeter. Definitely not seeing anything above 40 but I don't feel I got that high in RPMs.

4. Stator unplugged. Bike running. vDC is swinging 20-30 across battery terminals.


Sent from my iPhone
 
Amend the above. Nothing about the last two seemed right. Grabbed the better multimeter and on revs hit 50-60vAC.

vDC when idling is 12.2.


Sent from my iPhone
 
SHould have continuity from pink to yellow, Pink is the common between the two coils. You should have continuity between white and yellow since they are tied together, it should be roughly the same as adding the reading from yellow to Pink and white to pink. Sounds like you have issues with those stator coils.

The coils are supposed to be isolated from the rest of the bike, grounding them and measuring is not needed, you should have ZERO continuity from any of the wires from the coil and the engine.
 
frogman said:
Should have continuity from pink to yellow, Pink is the common between the two coils. You should have continuity between white and yellow since they are tied together, it should be roughly the same as adding the reading from yellow to Pink and white to pink. Sounds like you have issues with those stator coils.
Yes, this is a bit odd. I'm not fully concerned on this piece since I'm seeing AC voltage generated at idle and spiked when revving. Have a second stator I can pick up from a buddy to do some long term testing. First step will be replacing the reg/rectifier.

frogman said:
...you should have ZERO continuity from any of the wires from the coil and the engine.
Correct - I have zero continuity from each wire to engine ground.
 
Yellow is the main charging coil, white is secondary for when you have the lights on. I would be concerned if you don't get AC voltage across the Yellow and pink when the bike is running and at high idle. Both sides should do 15-20 at idle and 40-60 at say 2-3k rpm.
 
Quick update - Wasn't able to make much progress this weekend as I'm waiting on the mailman.
New reg/rectifier coming to see if that solves things.
Will also be testing a friend's stator against mine when he's back in town early this week.

Fingers crossed I'll be up and running by mid-week.
 
Replaced the stator tonight. Showed continuity between wires that my original did not. No change to my overall issue unfortunately. Stator puts out vAC as expected but battery is seeing 17-20+ DC volts when idling.
 
Well that's better, now just get the reg/rec installed and see how things work. 17-20 at idle is pretty good that means when you get it regulated you should have a bike that might charge at idle.
 
Was thinking the replacement unit would show up by now but still nothing as of mail delivery today.
Found a guy on ebay who is close by with a factory reg and rectifier available. Might pick them up short term just to get on the road until Sonreir's shows up.

More to come.
 
So just for shits and giggles I threw on the factory regulator and rectifier and the battery slowly climbs up in vDC at idle and increases on rev.

However now I'm getting a bit of backfiring. Due to stator swap?

Anyway, this still didn't remedy the LED running tail light from flickering either. Brake light is solid, no flicker.


Sent from my iPhone
 
Back
Top Bottom