Any fabricators using the DcH2000 cobra

Texasstar said:
thanks Johnu we are pulling out the cobra to make a gift for my sister's bday and see how it cuts stainless...


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Can it cut stainless? I didn't think you could cut stainless with o/a, thought you had to use a special torch that mixes iron powder to the flame. Post some pics if you do it:)
 
no you cannot cut stainless with oxy acetylene, maybe melt it and have it drip away but it is not the same rapid oxidation "cutting" process as with steel
 
xb33bsa said:
no you cannot cut stainless with oxy acetylene, maybe melt it and have it drip away but it is not the same rapid oxidation "cutting" process as with steel
you are right! It will melt it...may go well with our ugly weld!


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We were told a little trick about how the aircraft guys flux their rods and store their flux. So we made a PVC tube to house our flux and the rods we will use each time...just add the flux and water screw in the plug and shake.
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The 4043 rod flowed! Zeke used the pencil grip and had way more control http://youtu.be/D_qZKk71M3Q


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Theeeere we go ;D

Can you pencil grip it down closer to the flame or does that section get too hot?
 
SONIC. said:
Theeeere we go ;D

Can you pencil grip it down closer to the flame or does that section get too hot?
we will give it the ole yippie Kay yay try...Looks like dad will make a good test dummy! :)


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Hey, it's Zeke. Thank you for the advice. I'm using a 2 tip. Do I need to use a 3? I'm also pulling instead of pushing. Do you think I have to much pressure? Did you mean aggressive as to much pressure.


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go to a number 3 push the puddle and from what i see most important try more pre heat so it flows better

if you keep seeing sparkles raise the over all pre heat it should flow much better
 
once you get a puddle started you should be able to move right along at a good pace it looked to me that yeah you heed a bigger flame those torches are so quite its hard to tell
pushing the puddle is the way to go preheats the coming weld zone and allows the puddle to cool behind the flame
 
We made a jig so that we could disassemble our crank. As you can see we found out the key to cut like butter was holding the torch 90 degrees to the work. We had a hard time cutting vertical pieces and corners of the angle. Any suggestions? http://youtu.be/qPnsDMxoEgo


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looks like it cuts pretty decent its all about enough preheat and then the oxy should do the work
my suggestion is get in a more stable comfortable position(even sitting) to where you can rest an elbow on the work piece or table,then do a ghost sweep of the cut to make sure you can without a re-position
fabbers will always rest an elbow whenever possible for stability when cutting cutting for precision
 
xb33bsa said:
looks like it cuts pretty decent its all about enough preheat and then the oxy should do the work
my suggestion is get in a more stable comfortable position(even sitting) to where you can rest an elbow on the work piece or table,then do a ghost sweep of the cut to make sure you can without a re-position
fabbers will always rest an elbow whenever possible for stability when cutting cutting for precision
thank you! We also need to get aprons for we were changing position to move out of the way.
The book said 12-14 psi with a number 2 tip for half inch steel. You
are so right about the ghost pull..as long as we were smooth and could pull it was like butter


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cxman said:
use a larger tip to reduce gas velocity while producing more preheat
we will give it a try! That 12-14 was on oxy only the book said to stay at 4psi on acetylene


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also using a clamped down or just heavy straightedge for a guide really makes a huge difference
helps if the straightedge is slightly above the surface,so it doesn't suck up heat so much
then you can pull your cut whilst holding some side pressure on the straightedge
using a straightedge reduces it to a one-handed operation one hand on the torch one on the table (or on the straightedge handle)
 
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