Any fabricators using the DcH2000 cobra

xb33bsa said:
also using a clamped down or just heavy straightedge for a guide really makes a huge difference
helps if the straightedge is slightly above the surface,so it doesn't suck up heat so much
then you can pull your cut whilst holding some side pressure on the straightedge
using a straightedge reduces it to a one-handed operation one hand on the torch one on the table (or on the straightedge handle)
that is a great tip!
 
Seems like a lot has been covered here on the DCH torch. For what it's worth, I have one and use it exclusively for welding aluminum and cutting steel. I also have a TIG, but using o/a for aluminum is really the best way to weld thinner sheet aluminum. I do the same kind of work as Sean at Roc City. You really can't go wrong with this torch. If you do some searching in the automotive restoration world, you will find that all aluminum bodied cars are gas welded. Not only is the weld less apt to crack over time, it can be hammered completely flush with the surrounding metal much easier than TIG. You also get much better penetration with the gas torch than you do with a TIG on aluminum. The only time I use the TIG when making tanks and seats is when I'm welding thin sheet to thicker structural pieces. It's just not feasible with gas to weld the different thicknesses.
This may be already covered, sorry if it's redundant.

Cliff
Meyerbuilt Metalworks
www.meyerbuiltmetalworks.com
 
englishwheeler said:
Seems like a lot has been covered here on the DCH torch. For what it's worth, I have one and use it exclusively for welding aluminum and cutting steel. I also have a TIG, but using o/a for aluminum is really the best way to weld thinner sheet aluminum. I do the same kind of work as Sean at Roc City. You really can't go wrong with this torch. If you do some searching in the automotive restoration world, you will find that all aluminum bodied cars are gas welded. Not only is the weld less apt to crack over time, it can be hammered completely flush with the surrounding metal much easier than TIG. You also get much better penetration with the gas torch than you do with a TIG on aluminum. The only time I use the TIG when making tanks and seats is when I'm welding thin sheet to thicker structural pieces. It's just not feasible with gas to weld the different thicknesses.
This may be already covered, sorry if it's redundant.

Cliff
Meyerbuilt Metalworks
www.meyerbuiltmetalworks.com
thanks Cliff! Today we used it to remove a harmonic balancer from mom's van. Pin point accuracy! http://youtu.be/jvkkGMKl83w


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Zeke's applying what he learned using a standard torch to his cobra http://youtu.be/PSgJpnuirBo


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Zeke would like your opinion http://youtu.be/QNrRzGve73U


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hey zeke
i see places where you were getting a good run
but it does look like you are not moving smooth or fast enough
practice practice practice
and on thin metal once you get a puddle i like using crescent moves not swirling it but it really shouldn't take too much movement


let me ask can you see really well what you are doing ? what shade of lens?
are you sitting or standing ? do you have your forearm rested on something as you weld ? do you feel very comfortable while welding ?
 
Actually I'm using sun glasses. I'm sitting. Yes I do have my arm rested on my leg and I move my leg up and down to get a circle pattern. Also yes I'm very comfortable while welding. On some parts of the weld I would ( on purpose ) make a hole and then weld it back in for complete penetration.



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hey zeke have you practiced fusion welding?
i feel it is very important to help learn torch control..... clean metal a perfect gapless butt joint... you should practice fusion welding(using no filler) until you can do it perfectly
you see on many project like sheet metal tanks you don't want or need to use a lot of filler rod
adding filler to the weld just for the sake of adding filler is not what you want to be doing
 
sunglasses !!!!!! ah ha ! no no no no !!!!! :mad: :mad:
you are being blinded quite literally !!!! get some proper acetelyne welding lenses dude !!
i like to use them in a welding hood 2x4 size shade 5 i think
and you need to be pushing the puddle with the torch laid back at about 30 degrees and you are using way to much movement of the torch
 
Actually I have practiced fusion welds. My first ever TIG weld was a fusion weld. It's really hard to do it on the cobra because it is so fast.


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I have goggles. But I found that using sunglasses is easier to weld. Yes I will start using the proper goggles now.


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and remember the technique is to form a puddle, then stab the rod this cools the puddle and you move forward re-creating the puddle, stab the rod it melts cools and fills the puddle repeat
this is the best method for thin metal
all the while having your rod layed down at the same 30 degree angle but opposite the torch and not constantly in the puddle only near the flame so it stays quite hot
you really need to perfect fusion welding first
 
http://youtu.be/MWZlTRkuDfw well we learned how easy stainless distorts


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We tried to butt the stainless but it would raise a 1/4" so we tacked one end then the other and then the center raised on Zeke. The Cobra video said to leave an 1/8" gap so we will try that today.


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We picked up some thicker material to make some intakes. We are going to drill the plate out and install the pipe to create a butt weld. Will the thicker material create a surface puddle where you can vary the penetration?
gehupyjy.jpg



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weld on plain flanges with no holes,actually a 3/8 hole so you can put a thru bolt to hold tight while welding
preheat before welding you will get a much easier time with penetration
be sure and use a larger tungsten on the tig torch
after you weld then you can chuck in the lathe and bore a hole
also face off flange
 
xb33bsa said:
weld on plain flanges with no holes,actually a 3/8 hole so you can put a thru bolt to hold tight while welding
preheat before welding you will get a much easier time with penetration
be sure and use a larger tungsten on the tig torch
after you weld then you can chuck in the lathe and bore a hole
also face off flange
we will give it a try! Thank you...again!


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