Building my own two-stroke "Mongrel" - Inspired by CharlieT & TedT



Well I got the front tank mounts figured out a lot simpler and easier than I anticipated and was able to recycle 2 of the top original radiator mounts with a little creative thinking. I was able to cut a small bushing to fit inside the tank rubber grommets and then flip them upside down where they had a concave side, and use a hex bolt to bolt it to the frame, and keep the hex headed bolt from protruding out past the round grommet, so it fits the tank really nicely without rubbing metal to metal there. I had to narrow up the grommets on the belt sander a little also, but hey, that saved me from having to machine and weld anything else onto the frame there in the front. Down side is, when I had done some mock up before I had raised the front of the tank to level out the look a little bit, as you can see its got a front ward slope now. I still need to make a mount for the back, but the back will be a hair bit higher than as pictured to keep from metal to metal contact.

New seal head for the 200X shock should be here in a day or two, and then I can try assembling it back together with fresh oil and nitrogen after installing a shortening bushing. The thing does not have a lot of travel to begin with so I am a little nervous in shortening it up even more, but maybe I'll spring for a $800 custom shock in the future for it. The 200X shock is from a linkage-less application also originally and a bike that weighed 282lbs so should be very comparable application except the swingarm is probably 2 inches longer from pivot to axle.

Thought/idea requesting feedback: Rather than doing a shit ton of metal work to the back of that tank and making to flow into the seat lines, I have the original ft500 ascot seat still somewhere in my barn. Do you guys think it'd be a good idea to try utilizing it to match those back lines, and then have it reshaped into the hump similar to the I've been using for mockup/idea? I love how that one is shaped, but can't decide if the match up to the tank is something I can live with, or it needs matched up better...

This is an FT500 Ascot seat to give you an idea of what the front corners and front edge would look like matched to the tank; http://www.ebay.com/itm/82-Honda-FT-500-FT500-Ascot-seat-/311606192129?hash=item488d2d2801:g:K7wAAOSwYmZXKxsO&vxp=mtr
 
Re: Building my own two-stroke "Mongrel" - Inspired by CharlieT & TedT

BillyGoat4130 said:


Well I got the front tank mounts figured out a lot simpler and easier than I anticipated and was able to recycle 2 of the top original radiator mounts with a little creative thinking. I was able to cut a small bushing to fit inside the tank rubber grommets and then flip them upside down where they had a concave side, and use a hex bolt to bolt it to the frame, and keep the hex headed bolt from protruding out past the round grommet, so it fits the tank really nicely without rubbing metal to metal there. I had to narrow up the grommets on the belt sander a little also, but hey, that saved me from having to machine and weld anything else onto the frame there in the front. Down side is, when I had done some mock up before I had raised the front of the tank to level out the look a little bit, as you can see its got a front ward slope now. I still need to make a mount for the back, but the back will be a hair bit higher than as pictured to keep from metal to metal contact.

New seal head for the 200X shock should be here in a day or two, and then I can try assembling it back together with fresh oil and nitrogen after installing a shortening bushing. The thing does not have a lot of travel to begin with so I am a little nervous in shortening it up even more, but maybe I'll spring for a $800 custom shock in the future for it. The 200X shock is from a linkage-less application also originally and a bike that weighed 282lbs so should be very comparable application except the swingarm is probably 2 inches longer from pivot to axle.

Thought/idea requesting feedback: Rather than doing a shit ton of metal work to the back of that tank and making to flow into the seat lines, I have the original ft500 ascot seat still somewhere in my barn. Do you guys think it'd be a good idea to try utilizing it to match those back lines, and then have it reshaped into the hump similar to the I've been using for mockup/idea? I love how that one is shaped, but can't decide if the match up to the tank is something I can live with, or it needs matched up better...

This is an FT500 Ascot seat to give you an idea of what the front corners and front edge would look like matched to the tank; http://www.ebay.com/itm/82-Honda-FT-500-FT500-Ascot-seat-/311606192129?hash=item488d2d2801:g:K7wAAOSwYmZXKxsO&vxp=mtr
Click to expand...
Potentially.

I've grown accustomed to seats that are narrow at the front and flow into the tank- such that your legs feel narrow there. Most stock seats from this era push your legs out bull-legged.
 
Re: Building my own two-stroke "Mongrel" - Inspired by CharlieT & TedT

That thing is looking fairly wicked. Very cool project.


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Bad few days in the shop. Was in the process of rolling out a new tunnel for the bottom of the tank to fit down over the back bone when I broke a tiny cast iron gear on my harbor freight slip roll (Only doing about double what the allotted capacity was so cant complain too much). Spent hours hammer forming the remaining section over some round stock billets in the vise and not super pleased with it. Lots of time trying to square up and and clean up the bottom of the tank where I cut it out and shape the tunnel to braze into it. Ordered some premade gear stock from McMaster Carr (Very handy stuff...) and have to do a little lathe work to replace the ones that came in the slip roll.

Shock seal head assembly came in and although it has the apparently correct part # on it, doesn't look anything like the OEM one and not sure I'll be able to do my shortening plan now because of how the individual seals are situated in it. It was kinda late last night while I was looking at it so I need to revisit it when I have a bit more time/light/thought capacity and see if its just an "upgraded" design or something that is infact wrong.

So lots of hours spent and not much to show for it... :)







 
I got my shortened ATC200X shock finished up (Finally got the spacer completed, after having made one, receiving the seal head and it being a completely different design, and having to make another spacer...). Got it oil filled and nitrogen charged (Working on shocks really is not as much of a black magic thing as folks would have you think).

Installed on the bike - ride height is much more level now and will keep some of you guys happy that have complained about swing arm droop angle from page 1 on :)

Only shit thing is now I shortened it so much I have to install the spring under preload even with the adjustment nuts all the way backed out. Sorry, didn't wind up with any pics..meant to take some and my phone died while I was in the shop and I wasn't going to stop working to go plug the thing in to charge and take pictures before I finished putting it together. I can draw diagrams/elaborate for anyone interested though, really wasn't that hard.



 


Mo Betta with the shortened rear shock, now?

Next steps are finish nailing the tank down, then the seat. Then massage the 'Busa sets into something intelligible.
 
So I mentioned a week or so ago I broke a little drive gear on my el cheapo harbor freight slip roll. I did this while I was trying to roll out a new tunnel for the tank. I wound up finishing hand beating the remainder (Which was a mistake...) but I still need to repair the slip roll in anticipation of the new stainless steel pipe I'll be building...

Quantity 1 of a chicom cast iron gear that broke out while rolling too thick of material...




Not too sure how many of ya'll use McMaster-Carr, but my god, they're amazing. They literally have everything. I never knew till about a week ago but you can buy gear shafting premade from them CHEAP in assorted tooth counts, sizes, and gear pitches. I bought a 1ft section of American made 17 tooth high load gear stock for $32! I'll have to replace the meshing gear that did not break since I couldn't get an exact match on diameter and tooth count, but hey, its going to be replaced with better material anyways, why not.



A little picture showing the original harbor freight gear that broke, next to my new gear stock.



I countersunk the end and started drilling the shaft to the rough diameter of the slip roll shaft's end. It sure is nice having tools that you can use to fix your other tools when they break...




Finished product on the slip-roll repair in a few days.
 
Finished putting the slip-roll back together




Got the tunnel silicon bronze tig'ed into place on the tank. Not my best work, but the tank was rusty as all get out on the inside despite my best efforts to clean and I had a lot of gap to fill up. Silicon Bronze is something that has eluded me for a while but I got the hang of it by the time this was finished. Water tested and found 1 tiny pin hole that was just barely making a bubble I need to go back over, not bad.




After wirewheeling a bit;






 
That slip roll looks better made than the one I bought from Eastwood (also made in China)

What filler rods did you use?
 
That is Harris ERCuSi-A (What a mouthful for a filler rod name...)

The trickiest part is the timing of when the rod melts and flows to the base surface, and your base surface starts to pool up (on the very thin sheet metal I was on at least) was soooooooo narrow, I mean, couldn't have been more than 5-10amp difference from the way it felt to me. Took a lot of doing to find that sweet spot with the pedal and then stay in it while you're traveling. I think with some more practice you could make a bitchin looking expansion chamber with that stuff too. It is pretty expensive though is the down side, about $40/lb
 
Re: Building my own two-stroke "Mongrel" - Inspired by CharlieT & TedT

Finally got the front tank mount revised. Initially I was using some existing threaded bosses on the frame but after cutting the tank open and rewelding it kinda spread open and those were to narrow to really fit in the catch cups on the tank well. I also still needed to raise it up a bit in the front. So, made new ones and welded those on.
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I should have taken a picture with the rubber bushings bolted onto those, but you get the idea. Good tight fit on the tank. So with that done it has really leveled the tank out, I liked the aggressive forward tilt the tank had but it was not very practical. I also gained some room to not have a radiator hose outlet exit into the bottom corner of it also. Sucks, but I'm a function over form type guy so whatever has to be done to make something work, I do.

My next two things with the tank are completing the rear mount, and integrating a flush mount gas cap setup. The existing locking mechanism appears to have been spot welded in about 4 places. I started grinding those to remove it yesterday. Here's what I'm putting in (I'll weld up the Suzuki engraving lol)
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Re: Building my own two-stroke "Mongrel" - Inspired by CharlieT & TedT

And here's a few more stance type pictures. I feel like I've posted a zillion but it changes (although subtlety) every time.
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Re: Building my own two-stroke "Mongrel" - Inspired by CharlieT & TedT

Is that your tank in the new position or the old one?
If it's the new one and you are keeping the rear subframe line, it's nice to see the bottom of the tank flow with the frame.
It sure has e some interesting lines this mongrel, top job.



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Re: Building my own two-stroke "Mongrel" - Inspired by CharlieT & TedT

Alex jb said:
Is that your tank in the new position or the old one?
If it's the new one and you are keeping the rear subframe line, it's nice to see the bottom of the tank flow with the frame.
It sure has e some interesting lines this mongrel, top job.



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Click to expand...
That's the new one and pretty close to final. I'll have to raise the rear a hair bit to put a rubber isolator under the back mount but that shouldn't be a but more than 1/4in at most. Originally I was going to make a new subframe but I think I will modify this one and use it. Or not. Haven't decided really yet :)

Thanks for the kind words.

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Re: Building my own two-stroke "Mongrel" - Inspired by CharlieT & TedT

It's great work, it's going to look solid.
Gotta love function first but still getting the look is a bonus.


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Having had limited experience with builds like this...what do you guys think/advise I should do about the rear fender and an inner fender/guard under the seat? Anything, or just leave it without and mount a tail light/plate and call it good?
 
Maybe a hugger, carbon fibre depending on how modern you want it to look? A small tail section for the light and plate? Personally I don't favour just having a tail light just hanging off of the seat without a little tail section or short piece of fender at least.
 
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