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I'm actually dealing with a similar issue. I switched my CL175 to CB exhaust with shorty mufflers and the stock kick lever smacks right into the muffler. I'll pull the kick lever off my 350 tonight and see if it fits and/or clears. For reference, how much clearance do you think you'd need? I have heard of people switching 350 kick levers to ones from a 360 because the lever juts out more. If the 350 lever fits on the 175 I bet you could always use a 360 if the clearance wasn't enough.
I'm actually dealing with a similar issue. I switched my CL175 to CB exhaust with shorty mufflers and the stock kick lever smacks right into the muffler. I'll pull my kicker off my 350 tonight and see if it fits and/or clears. For reference, how much clearance do you think you'd need? I have heard of people switching 350 kick levers to ones from a 360 because the lever juts out more. If the 350 lever fits on the 175 I bet you could always use a 360 if the clearance wasn't enough.
Cool! If you could check to see if your 350 lever works, and the 360 and 350 are interchangeable then I'll look for a 360 one.
I am traveling on business so I can't tell you exactly how much I would need. I just know the curved 175 one looks big as hell and sticks out in the middle of nowhere since I don't have airboxes to blend it in a bit.
Just checked and my CL350 arm is way too big for the 175 spindle. FWIW, my arm is not one that rotates at the base. Perhaps that is a CB and CL difference, however I would assume most 350s have the same spindle size. You should check out builds of CB160 or CB175 racers. They all seem to run the Motobits rearsets and I'm sure a solution to your problem has been found by one of them. I know they often bump start but somebody had to have wanted to keep the kicker.
Well that's a bummer. I have seen people heat and bend the where needed and that's certainly a solution, but I still hate the look of where my 175 kicker sits in the side view of the bike. I know it's a small detail....but still
I'll let you know what I find out. Thanks for helping out.
Trying to solve this problem I found this question all over the internet. I finally figured out that a CRF50 lever fits and has a pretty big dogleg in it. Clears my Tarozzi rearsets on custom brackets by about 1/4 inch.
Trying to solve this problem I found this question all over the internet. I finally figured out that a CRF50 lever fits and has a pretty big dogleg in it. Clears my Tarozzi rearsets on custom brackets by about 1/4 inch.
Anyone else tried this successfully on CB175 1969 K3 or equivalent?
I noticed on mine the oil dip stick is mounted right next to the kick start lever.
Does anything get in the way there?
Current listing on eBay:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HONDA-XR-CRF-50-KICK-START-STARTER-LEVER-SDG-SSR-COOLSTER-125CC-SILVER-I-KL08-/370189963783?hash=item56310a9207
Forgot to add to this one: I use my rear peg location for rear sets on my 160, and hated the stock kicker as it sticks into your shins. I got the crf50 one (the curved one on Ebay for $14, that swivels out) and it clears the rear sets perfectly (I have the folding kind) and tucks nicely back in while riding. These are the key search words on Ebay if anyone else is looking for this: HONDA XR CRF 50 KICK START STARTER LEVER 125CC 150CC SILER M KL08 . I'm digging this back up because I'm building a 160 for someone else and had to track this down to remember what the part was that works!
Forgot to add to this one: I use my rear peg location for rear sets on my 160, and hated the stock kicker as it sticks into your shins. I got the crf50 one (the curved one on Ebay for $14, that swivels out) and it clears the rear sets perfectly (I have the folding kind) and tucks nicely back in while riding. These are the key search words on Ebay if anyone else is looking for this: HONDA XR CRF 50 KICK START STARTER LEVER 125CC 150CC SILER M KL08 . I'm digging this back up because I'm building a 160 for someone else and had to track this down to remember what the part was that works!
Just to close the loop on this, it does work as far as the spline size. It's a bolt on. BUT, it does not clear the clutch cover when the lever is rotated. So I pulled out the handy flap wheel and went to town. Eventually I ground it down enough that it would clear, but you still have to have the lever start at about 30 or so degree counter clockwise of where it should be. You really can't get a full stroke kick with it. It may work better on a 160 or sloper 175. Dunno.
IMHO, my opinion is to heat up the stock lever and bend it out. You can't do it with MAPP though. Needs to be hotter.
Good info, thanks for following up 1sttimer. I'm curious as to why you conclude MAPP isn't hot enough. Since this topic was started I've successfully heated and bent two stock Honda kickstart levers with a MAPP (technically MAP-Pro) torch including the one for the 175 in the picture below. It was done to clear the shorty mufflers. From an aesthetic standpoint it's a bit worse than stock - there is some slight discoloration and it sticks out a bit more. It didn't hit my leg though, though, and allowed for full travel of the arm. IIRC, you're an engineer, right - is there any other reason MAPP isn't good for this application?
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