CB350 Triple 6

[IMOALE]

Thanks guys, it sounds like he not gonna kick the bucket, but will def get a huge bill, which he will have to pay in small payments for life, he just got layed off before this happened, so it all came a the worst possible time.

I'm starting to get a little worried the guy I ordered my brake line from has not contacted me back and I have not recieved my brake line, then again its only been a week.

I got my hoses in, my gas hoses that is, and I cut the and fitted them on for size. It is plain black fuel hose I got off ebay or $! a foot sure you guys have seen it around. Guy shipped very quickly. Service Honda sent me my tracking number looks like friday I get most of the part I need for the front end, those little Curly Q fuel hose clamps, the lower hard brake line and a few bolts, and washers.

Got my order in from Cable Organizer, I got that chrome sleeving for the bottom brake hose since it is in great condition. I sharped one of my soldering iron tips and used it to cut the sleeving once on the hose which gave me a nice clean end to the frayed ends of the sleeving. Then I used glue lined shrink wrap to finis it off. Real nice. All thanks to JRK $50 thread.

Just uploaded picks of last section. Will upload for thas as soon a camera gets recharged.

 

[IMOALE]

Project : shortening my thottle and clutch cable.

Start by measuring the free play. Pull the cord completely to one end of the cable and measue the esposed inner cable, make note of the length. You will need to copy this legnth when you cut your cable.

Sorry no pic of me measuring free play, but here is one of me measuring the cables freeplay for cutting.

Then figure out what end is best to cut. On my clutch cable it was the motor end, because it has a solder on fitting that I can reuse. The Barrel end is basically a molded piece of solder.



I used my plumbing torch to melt the solder off the small end. Read it's not got to heat the cable red hot, because it becomes brittle. So I just waved it back and forth thru the flame until the solder became soft and I pushed the fitting back quickly to expose the freyed end. I used my dremel with a cutting wheel to cut the wire, worked better than smashing it up with cutters. I then heated it up again and pulled the fitting off ( with needlenose of course). I was able then to slide the inner cable out of the housing.

Nice clean cut

I inspected the innner cable and found that my barrel end has a few strands broken and decided to replace it (the barrel with what? I have to hunt around Ace hardware today/don't feel like waiting for the mail).

Removed the adjusting fitting on the motor end (which just slides on) cut the housing to length (dremel/cutting wheel) and pushed the fitting back on.

I then melted off the barrel and cut that end clean also.

Back after a friendly u12 Soccer game.

Okay this was what I did for the Clutch cable. I used copper pipe, silver solder, and silver solder flux.

I took one of my extra clutch levers with me to ACE and found that there is copper pipe the exact diamiter I needed.
Looked for brass but could not find.

Cut a piece a little longer than needed. Then I drilled a hole, the same diamiter as the cable, through the center of the piece. (Easier to drill first)

Cleand and fluxed both pieces, placed them on the floor to solder with my torch.

Did not heat up he pieces well on first try and not pretty. I filled the inside of the copper pipe with silver solder. Make sure to heat both parts up will (but not red hot) to make the parts stick together.

Second try better just need to be cleaned up

Cleaned up and grinded down to the right length

Test fitted NICE pulled and pulled nice and strong

Back in the cut down housing

Measured free play and soldered on motor end fitting

 

[troybilt]

Good news about your bro! Sorry about his bill. Now lets get that bike done ;D
Can't believe what a nice job you did on the cables! Deff. one for the $50 thread.

 

[IMOALE]

Thanks bro guess that is life, you have to pay for it, but its worth every penny

 

[IMOALE]

This was an expiriement that I tried but decided not to use, even though it does work, Just need to heat up the cable also.

I decided to make a plaster mold to try and make the end for my throttle cable which is smaller and could not find the right size copper pipe.

I won't go into the detail much, but if you need me to drop me a line.

First I made a mold out of plaster, (fast driying kind you can get at Michaels with the baby hand kits)

SUPPLIES: plaster, clay, something to make box (pieces of wood this time)

Piece I'm trying to duplicate

Mold making process

Use vasaline as mold release so second side of plaster doent stick to first/ I used carmex it worked

First slug Not Good at all, Tried to melt solder in mold

Second slug melted solder in a spoon and poured in

Did some clean up with a file and test fit

Looked awesome and worked sweet for about minute, then the cable slipped out of the solder, it did not penetrate the cable since it was cold when I poured in the silver solder.

 

[Tim]

Found this online:

http://www.dansmc.com/solder_cable.htm

 

[IMOALE]

You know Tim that is were I got part of my idea. This guys Motorcycle course is very good. Never thought about it but it we need a link file. That one def needs to be in there. Guy deservers the credit, and it should be in the DTT must read list. There is also another site I have to find it that sells everything (from motionpro) but you can get little bags of ten for lik $8 bucks (fitting, end,and such) instead of the big $$$$$ kit motion pro sells. have to find that link.

 

[IMOALE]

Here are the other details I've been working on.

Battery box

Test fit/will tig in

Lower brake cabe with Cable organizer chrome and shrink wrap

Test fit along with recently epoxied stabilizer

New speed bleeder

New hoses

 

[Maritime]

IMOALE, did you flux the cable before pouring the solder? It may have helped get the solder to go through and bind properly?

 

[chrisf]

If you go to a metal store such as Metal Supermarkets, you should be able to find a rod in the exact diameter you need. Then do the following:

1.) Drill a hole through it and feed the cable through.

2.) Make sure it is absolutely clean.

3.) Splay the cable out a bit.

4.) Wrap a wet shop rag around the bottom of the cable to keep the cable and sheath cool.

5.) TIG the spayed cable to the barrel.

You want to work very quickly to keep the heat out. Just get the puddle started and introduce a little filler. In fact, if you use staineless rod as the barrel, you can turn the heat down a bit.

Even if you don't have the TIG machine, you can get everything ready and take it somewhere. It should cost less than $10.

--Chris

 

[JRK5892]

looks good man! dope idea wiht the mold! wish that would have worked out a bit better for you but it soundsl ike chris has this down... that chrome wrap looks good huh!
looking nice man! keep it flowing!

 

[IMOALE]

I did flux it but it was cold (cable) when the solder hit the mold. I need to make it a two person operation with two torches in order to keep the cable warm while I melt and pour the solder. I liked the idea since it was as close as you could get to the OEM end, but in the end you cant really see the cable ends. LOL is that a pun

Chris definately has it down. Dont have a metal store nearby, I'm very rural and lucky to have a small Ace the a hardware section. Will definately save that though, hope to get a tig this summer.

It was fun to try and it looked REAL good but oh well. I do like the chrome shielding JRK it is sweet. could barely get the 5/16 over the banjo fitting but it worked out real nice and the shrink wrap really finishes it up to look like stainless.

 

[IMOALE]

Recieved my package yesterday, The Curly Q clams I ordered for the the hoses didnt fit, but that wasn't too much of a loss. Just one more NOS thing I can ebay off. Other than that it was all good got the hard line for the brakes, and the upper should be waiting at the post office on Monday.

Helping out my wife redo the living room chairs laying down some black stain and lacquer on the chair legs for her. Should have that done with by mid day tommorow.

Also redid my rear drum brake, shoes and a quick deglazing. Slipped on the Chain tensionses, band bolted the wheel back in.

My new machinist is the shit. Made me a few new tensioner wheels, and decided I'm gonna take make a wood model of my planned rear sets for him to machine out of aluminum and some delrin.

Also making some custom washers to use with JRK's zip tye hose trick gonna look real clean.

Details are all comming together.

 

[IMOALE]

It was a sunny day yesterday and I decided to take some shots, of Triple 6 outside the garage. I need to mess with my camera my shots are too small.

 

[IMOALE]

Hey guys what up, haven't posted lately been super busy. I've been working out the details for some parts I'm gonna get cut today. I'll have pics if every thing works out I'll have some sweet pics this afternoon. Been using software to design different parts that I'm gonna be using. If everything goes good today I'll have the electics and battery trays done.

 

[IMOALE]

Got to the shop and had my first try with the torchmate. Didnt do as goo as I thought but after some clean up it all came out good. I redidthe electrics tray, used a nice big gromet to makeit look a little cleaner. Used 8g wire for the starter, which I protected under the bike using 1/4 fuel line and shrink wrap came out real clean. Ran the wire up the center spline (trying to eliminate/hide some wires. I also redid the battery box. Drafted out some brackes and placed it right where the old too box went really clean, somewhat like loud bike. I got most of my wiring hook up enought to see if the starter and controls were working. Light are a go. The starter has a short somewhere, the relay swith stays on when I turn the key, nothing big just have to look around. And my horn didnt beep. But no huge sparks.

Broke a bolt, have to buy an extracter :-[oh well

 

[IMOALE]

Well ran into my first snag not a huge one but it could have been (good thing I didnt have any gas i yet). Seem I didnt line up my cam up properly with the timing chain sprocket. Got really happy the wiring was done and the battery charged and in. I started testing all the switches. Light check, turn signal check, horn check, brake light check, starter CLANK CRRRRRRR. Damanged the one way bearing on the starter sprocket. (thank god for estras) no piston on valve damage. The engine had to come out so I could line everything up right. I had to turn the cam a full 180. Had read about this happening and thought I had been carefull I guess I wasn't. Im gonna take advantage of the engine being out again to wipe and polish up the paint its gotten dusty and a few light scratches that will polish up nicely. Also gonna seal up and degreese the engine for the final assembly.

 

[IMOALE]

Been missing in action for awhile. Came back to find all sorts of new builds and alot of cool ass finished rides. I got Triple 6 started but then had some trouble with a few parts. Also have had alot of other projects going. Everything from pool shades to powder coating bicycles. So I've been busy. Triples seat is alsmost done. First shot a welding and well my weldng sucks, so Im' gonna hide it under bondo, but the shape i actually like. Gonnna have her off for upholstery very soon. Will snap some pics.

 

[JRK5892]

THERE HE IS!!! what up man! glad to have you back and rocking!