CB360 Engine Rebuild w/pics. Need a little help

Nevermind, just realized I am an idiot.....at LT both the valves for the Left piston are closed, at T both the valves for the Right piston are closed. I think we're good to go.

Just Three-Bonded the cover and will procede with checking tappets when its dried
 
I had to pop off the valve cover after I set the cam to the LF mark. Turns out its one tooth off from being right.

I'm glad I didn't put it into the frame before I caught it.
 
Sooooo she doesnt run. All im getting is the motor turning over, some random backfires, but no real signs of life. :'( :'( :'( :'(
 
Check that the engine is grounded throught the frame to the battery. also check that the coils are grounded too. I went so far as to grind back the paint on the coil mounting holes. I hope this helps.
 
Feisti said:
Sooooo she doesnt run. All im getting is the motor turning over, some random backfires, but no real signs of life. :'( :'( :'( :'(
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Swap the yellow and blue wires coming from the points to the coils and try again.
 
Okay ill go check all that now. Thanks as always for your help guys. I know the bowls have fuel and i know im getting spark.

I took a vid of how it sounds when i crank it. At the end you can't really hear it but theres a huge backfire that made me jump haha.

Its still processing: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gP3lLalJKH4
 
Same thing with better grounding....Swapping the yellow and blue wires caused more backfires.

Im guessing, since i have fuel, i have spark, and im getting backfires.....something must be wrong with the timing....
 
Yea theyre wet. Plus taking into consideration the bike was running before all this I doubt its a carb issue
 
You'll find that the timing is pretty close when the notch in the points plate lines up with the gap in the rocker cover.

IMG_0828.jpg


Though I don't know for certain, I suspect it was designed this way to allow for more precision when rotating the points plate to set the timing. You can just insert a flathead screwdriver into the gap and gently lever it to rotate.
 
Hmmm. Im now im a little confused MGD.

Okay lets start at the basics:

In order to make sure my engine is timed correctly:

A) align horizontal hash marks on cam with the flat top of the head

B) since there are two positions where the cam would line up like this, i bolted down the rockers and checked which position resulted in the valves being closed for each respective piston at LF and T (i think it was T, whatever the manual said for the right piston)

C) Check valve gaps for intake and exhaust

D) Re-install the thing that moves the points ;D (this only has one way of going in) and the points plate/points

E) Check with a tester that the points open at the correct marks on the rotor (after adjusting the max point gap of course)

So what do you mean about the previous persons marks?

This was everything I did....i havent taken the motor back out yet (its sitting in timeout because im mad at it), i really don't see how i could of done anything wildly wrong!
 
Feisti, look at what Sonreir said above your last post. Put the points plate on so that it "looks" like how his is in the picture. This will get you CLOSE on timing. Then proceed to hook up a 12V light (brake lights and turn signals work best in my opinion) and put the negative clip on the frame (see his picture) and positive on the spring arm (also see picture) Set your gap when the points open the most they possibly can, and then rotate it to the LF mark. Now set the left set of points to JUST open at the LF mark. Rotate the engine a few times and make sure it didn't move. Then set it for the F mark, and do the same thing.
 
MotorbikeBruno said:
Feisti, look at what Sonreir said above your last post. Put the points plate on so that it "looks" like how his is in the picture. This will get you CLOSE on timing. Then proceed to hook up a 12V light (brake lights and turn signals work best in my opinion) and put the negative clip on the frame (see his picture) and positive on the spring arm (also see picture) Set your gap when the points open the most they possibly can, and then rotate it to the LF mark. Now set the left set of points to JUST open at the LF mark. Rotate the engine a few times and make sure it didn't move. Then set it for the F mark, and do the same thing.
Click to expand...
^what he said. what ment by "marks" is that on the points plate, somebody tapped a screw driver across the plate and the head, giving it an indent to line up.

Use "LT" marks to line up the cam. Use "LF" marks to set the points.
 
Okay I got what you mean by the marks now. Motorbikebruno, thanks for the advice man, but what I am trying to tell you guys is ive done all of the electrical timing correctly. it must be something wrong with the cam shaft position
 
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