CB400 Four project
- Thread starter noexit
- Start date
forcefanajd
Over 1,000 Posts
weight reduction?
noexit
Been Around the Block
I think I figured it out. I think it goes between the 2 & 3 carbs and acts as the bottom anchor point for the throttle return spring.
Now one more part I'm missing... There a tube joining carbs 1 & 2 and 3 & 4, and carbs 2 and three have a angled brass fitting that is lightly pressed in. I pulled one out thinking there was an o-ring in there. The second one I don't remember pulling out, and this is the one that didn't get bagged. Somewhere along the line it came out, and I don't know where it is. Shit.
Now one more part I'm missing... There a tube joining carbs 1 & 2 and 3 & 4, and carbs 2 and three have a angled brass fitting that is lightly pressed in. I pulled one out thinking there was an o-ring in there. The second one I don't remember pulling out, and this is the one that didn't get bagged. Somewhere along the line it came out, and I don't know where it is. Shit.
Aaron, glad to see you got the tank and its helping you mock things up. I think you will get your bike up and going before I do and mine ran when I got it...
This is some info I have regarding a 400F running pods and carb jetting:
I haven't tried it yet so I can't vouch for the accuracy but its a good starting point I guess. It came from a local 400F enthusiast.
The bracket you are asking about under the seat area holds what looks to be a voltage regulator. Basically, its a heat sink. If you relocate the battery you probably do not need it there. Also the other brackets you pointed out by the swing arm are for the brake light switch.
I have email notification on this now so if you have any questions just ask and I can get you pictures. I still need to get you one for the headlight wiring. Also if you need help with the harness let me know. I can also get input from our resident electrical engineers on the best weatherproof compact connectors. I was planning on going through my bike and redoing all the wiring as well since I have some electrical issues.
This is some info I have regarding a 400F running pods and carb jetting:
I haven't tried it yet so I can't vouch for the accuracy but its a good starting point I guess. It came from a local 400F enthusiast.
The bracket you are asking about under the seat area holds what looks to be a voltage regulator. Basically, its a heat sink. If you relocate the battery you probably do not need it there. Also the other brackets you pointed out by the swing arm are for the brake light switch.
I have email notification on this now so if you have any questions just ask and I can get you pictures. I still need to get you one for the headlight wiring. Also if you need help with the harness let me know. I can also get input from our resident electrical engineers on the best weatherproof compact connectors. I was planning on going through my bike and redoing all the wiring as well since I have some electrical issues.
noexit
Been Around the Block
wazzu70 said:
Hmm.... That will be fun. I'll have to run some of my battery ideas by you. I'm moving at the end of the month, and I have an application in at a house with a garage in Ballard.
Today's trouble:
I bent a clip. I suppose I should replace them all anyway. It's part # 94601-13000. Anywhere from 48¢ to 8¢, an readily available, so I'm just going to order 10 and replace them all.
noexit
Been Around the Block
WoHoo! Progress! Since my last post, I've moved into a new house with a garage! First thing I did was set up a workbench to put my engine on. I picked up the clips about a month ago, and installed them on pistons 4 through 2, but then I noticed that I'd never even taking piston 1 from the bag I put it in when I was taking the engine apart. Couldn't figure out why until I tried to remove the second ring. Stuck... A day of gentle coaxing and a blow torch, and I got the ring free. Tested everthing out and it's all within spec, so back together with piston one, lay down a gasket, and stuck the cylinders on. I got some hose clamps to use as ring compressors, but I didn't use them. The taper of the cylinder bore and a finger nail to push the ring under the lip was all I needed.
Next up: I need to beg for or borrow a valve spring compressor so I can put my head back together. It's getting close!
Time to clean up the oil pump.
Next up: I need to beg for or borrow a valve spring compressor so I can put my head back together. It's getting close!
Time to clean up the oil pump.
noexit
Been Around the Block
Quick question: Will the engine fit in the frame complete? or do I have to leave the head off until I'm ready with the frame? When I took it apart a little over two years ago, I took the head off before I removed the engine, but I'm not sure it I could have left it together.
boomshakalaka
Over 1,000 Posts
autozone has a tool loan program and the one by my house has a valve spring compressor on the list of tools theyll loan. Essentially they are allowing you to purchase the tool with the knowledge that you intend to use it and return it for a full refund. Pretty sweet deal if you ask me!
noexit
Been Around the Block
I got my valve spring compressor in the mail on Friday, and put my head together over the weekend.
Now two questions:
1. I took the head off the engine before I pulled it from the frame, but I don't remember if it fits in the frame with the engine fully assembled or not.
2. OEM style gaskets don't require any sealant, correct?
Now two questions:
1. I took the head off the engine before I pulled it from the frame, but I don't remember if it fits in the frame with the engine fully assembled or not.
2. OEM style gaskets don't require any sealant, correct?
Hoosier Daddy
Earache my eye...
If you got a welder, or access to one.
Two thick washers, a steel rod, and a C-clamp... worked on my GL heads.
I guess I ought to post this in the $50 mod thread.
Two thick washers, a steel rod, and a C-clamp... worked on my GL heads.
I guess I ought to post this in the $50 mod thread.
killerdwarf
Been Around the Block
You don't see too many 400 four cafe projects, as many people aren't that stupid. The 400 fours are quite rare, and actually sought after! People are restoring them, as they are the original factory cafe race bike. The seats, tanks,and stock exhaust are items restorers are looking for.. don't fuck them up!!!!
rockcitycafe
I make things.
killerdwarf said:
I'm happily turning my 400f into a gp race bike, full alloy fairing, gp alloy tank and seat, stainless 4-1 exhaust... stock is cool, and some old banker would love to buy my bike for XXXX $ if it were stock, but fuck bankers and their living room ornaments, I'll have the coolest and most fun to ride 400f around.
keep up the build man!
thompsonmx100
Over 1,000 Posts
Ok mister buzz kill. I love when someone says that old under engineered bike is worth alot of money and that you shouldn't be modifying it. These things sucked in stock form they didn't handle and were slow. Why would I want to keep it that way. Oh and F the rich people if they want an old cb 400 go get you one.
Hoosier Daddy
Earache my eye...
Like the old Street Rodder saying goes "Anybody can restore a bike, but it takes a real man to cut one up!"
If "many people aren't that stupid" then I must be a total idiot, my project is a CB350F, your bikes predicessor, only made the 3 years before the 400F.
There is one good point, E-bay the stock pieces you aren't using to fund the build for the guys who are restoring them.
If "many people aren't that stupid" then I must be a total idiot, my project is a CB350F, your bikes predicessor, only made the 3 years before the 400F.
There is one good point, E-bay the stock pieces you aren't using to fund the build for the guys who are restoring them.
noexit said:
You should be able to get the engine back in the frame with the head one. You will need to leave the valve breather off and install it once you have the engine in the frame. Easiest way to install the engine is to lay the engine on it's side and lay the frame on top of the engine. Bolt it up and stand the frame up. You can literally do this in 5 minutes.
Question 2 - gaskets alone should be sufficient. You don't need to put sealant on them. A little blue thread locker will help keep things torqued down to spec.
noexit
Been Around the Block
killerdwarf said:
If you go back to my first post, you'll see what I was starting with. One bent frame, one frame with a chunk broken out, and a couple engines. Neither bike is something that most people would consider putting back on the road. I prefer stock to custom when stock is practical, but when you're starting with two half parted out rust buckets, you'd be crazy not to go custom.
