Finishing my CL360 project handful of "Dumb Questions"

K

ksprzk

Active Member
Hey Guys,

I've always gotten amazing tips and advice on here, just want to preface this with: These are probably really dumb questions for most of you. I am almost finished with my first ever complete tear down project on this 1974 CL360. Labeled a ton of parts but you know there's always random ones that get through. So i'll put them all in one thread for you guys. Any help is appreciated. (side note, most of these I can't find solutions in my clymer)

1- Reinstalled the carbs. I have this guy just dangling. The metal tab looks like it should be fixed to something. Can someone tell me what this is and where it goes?

RkowDuI.png


2- I've adjusted throttle push/pull cables on my harley. I'm having a tough time getting this CL360 to snap back quickly. it's not super slow however it's slow enough to want to fix. On my harley both the push and pull cables have adjusters however these cables don't (chrome one does and black one doesn't). do i adjust at the carb level as well? Any step by step would be great. didn't see anything in my Clymer Manual.

NzXLBv9.png


3- Need new gaskets for the exhaust. I believe this is correct, copper ring that goes into the engine? Can someone confirm. It does fit right in and rests on the little flange inside the engine (no way it could fall in, impossible)

zHSn11j.png


4- Can't seem to figure out where the spring on my foot pegs go?

IX6cwdj.png


5- Hooking up the gas lines, Just want to confirm i have this right. The tube (now painted white) on the bottom of the tank, is that just a simple crossover to the other side? Then it's just 2 tube from the bottom of the petcock each going to the bottom of the two carb bowls correct? Just want to make sure. Another dumb question: if i put in fuel filters where do they go? (i bought 1 but looking at it i feel like i actually need two)

xDe52Ke.png
 
1.) One of the bolts on the float bowls is longer than the others and it's used to bolt the throttle adjustment cable to the carbs.
2.) The return spring on the carbs is the only adjustment I know of, and it's not really meant to be adjusted. Sure your cables aren't binding anywhere?
3.) Correct.
4.) That's the brake return spring. Goes on the other side and not on the foot peg.
5.) Not familiar with that one, sorry.
 
Sonreir said:
1.) One of the bolts on the float bowls is longer than the others and it's used to bolt the throttle adjustment cable to the carbs.
2.) The return spring on the carbs is the only adjustment I know of, and it's not really meant to be adjusted. Sure your cables aren't binding anywhere?
3.) Correct.
4.) That's the brake return spring. Goes on the other side and not on the foot peg.
5.) Not familiar with that one, sorry.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the quick reply. Just going to clarify a couple things:

1- so that gets bolted to the bottom of whatever carb has a bolt in it? is that the idle adjustment?
2- I'm going to check it again. I don't think so however. do these cables need lube? They are brand new cables but i could always lube them.
3- thanks!
4- I'm actually still on the hunt for the brake return spring. These springs came out of the same ziploc bag that i put all the pegs in. I have two of them not one. However, looking at the parts schematic i found only it doesn't show springs on the foot pegs at all. Any other guesses where these came from? I have 2 identical springs. not big enough for the rear brake.
 
1.) Yes and yes.
2.) Lube them.
4.) That looks a lot like the brake return spring to me.
 
Sonreir said:
1.) Yes and yes.
2.) Lube them.
4.) That looks a lot like the brake return spring to me.
Click to expand...

Awesome thanks again. I checked the spring for the brake but it's not the right size. here's a pic. Any other ideas? I have 2 of them.

DvHLpWS.png
 
5)
Yes you need fuel line to connect it to the other side of the tank, and the fuel line is to be routed under the frame. Yes, I know, it's makes it a pain in the ass to remove the tank without spilling gas everywhere. I have to first drain all of the gas through the petcock, tip the bike to one side and pull the gas line that connects the two half from the side that is not tipped down, and then remove the tank.
 
mannydantyla said:
5)
Yes you need fuel line to connect it to the other side of the tank, and the fuel line is to be routed under the frame. Yes, I know, it's makes it a pain in the ass to remove the tank without spilling gas everywhere. I have to first drain all of the gas through the petcock, tip the bike to one side and pull the gas line that connects the two half from the side that is not tipped down, and then remove the tank.
Click to expand...

No worries at all. it's all empty right now. Just wanted to make sure that i was hooking those lines up correctly. gotta get some hose clamps from the store and i'll be good to go. does it matter which line goes to which carb?
 
figured out that the springs are from the pegs. according to this...

http://www.cmsnl.com/cl360-scrambler-360-k0-usa_model551/partslist/F++12.html#row50617283000

now i just have to figure out where the heck they attach.
 
That spring is for your folding foot peg. It keeps it in the down position. Pull the pin holding the peg on and insert spring so as the peg will fold up and have tension to keep it down.
Fuel feed lines do not go to the bottom of the float bowls.
You may want to back out your chrome elbow on the throttle cable. It may be in too far, binding on the inside.
 
Firs pic is the screw set for the throttle idle. Usually fixed to one of the bowl screws.

Did you replace the cables? Check to see if the cables are frayed and move easily off the bike. Then check that they are routed correctly.


Correct about eh exhaust gasket. It won’t fall in.
That is the Rear Brake Spring. Goes around the shaft its mounted into. An hooks under the inside front of the lever.

Yes that tube is the crossover. There is only one Filter on the inside of the tank, fixed to the top of the petcock.
 
alzcbz said:
That spring is for your folding foot peg. It keeps it in the down position. Pull the pin holding the peg on and insert spring so as the peg will fold up and have tension to keep it down.
Fuel feed lines do not go to the bottom of the float bowls.
You may want to back out your chrome elbow on the throttle cable. It may be in too far, binding on the inside.
Click to expand...

thanks for the info. totally makes sense about the fuel lines *duh*. is the bottom the overflow tube? I'm scouring the internet for a fuel line diagram and not finding much. if anyone wanted to be amazing and draw something that would be awesome. i think i should explain little better about the filter. i got one of the small plastic cone time filters. so if someone knows from the petcock to the carb where all the hose goes and where i put that filter that would be awesome. like i said, i know they're dumb questions but i won't know unless i ask!
 
The stock petcock should have two lines coming from it. Go ahead and put an inline filter in each.
Your carbs should be very similar to my CB350 carbs. The fuel inlet should be at the inlet side, just above the bowl.
http://ts1.mm.bing.net/th?id=HN.608014120433877743&pid=1.9&m=&w=300&h=300&p=0
In this pic, the black hose is on the overflow. the fuel inlet is just right of there.
 
alzcbz said:
The stock petcock should have two lines coming from it. Go ahead and put an inline filter in each.
Your carbs should be very similar to my CB350 carbs. The fuel inlet should be at the inlet side, just above the bowl.
http://ts1.mm.bing.net/th?id=HN.608014120433877743&pid=1.9&m=&w=300&h=300&p=0
In this pic, the black hose is on the overflow. the fuel inlet is just right of there.
Click to expand...

Perfect! thanks so much. the bottom of the bowl has a hose that simply gets tucked away incase it overflows right?
 
New Dumb Question:

I replaced the stock filters with K&N cone filters. I'm guessing i'll need to rejet the carbs for the new filters? If yes, is there harm to the engine to starting it up to see if it's running lean or rich? I'm guessing that's the only way to know for sure if i need to rejet yeah?
 
You'll probably need to rejet unless you're already too rich.

Running too lean can overheat the engine. Do be careful with that. Running too rich won't harm the engine, unless you run it for a super long time with it super rich, and it carbon fouls the valves.
 
Rejetting probably won't be necessary if the only change you've made is to the air filters. They won't run as well as they did stock (there will be a flat spot in the mid range where they go too rich), but a rejet won't be able to fix the problem.
 
Sonreir said:
Rejetting probably won't be necessary if the only change you've made is to the air filters. They won't run as well as they did stock (there will be a flat spot in the mid range where they go too rich), but a rejet won't be able to fix the problem.
Click to expand...

I don't think he's talking about keeping the stock airboxes and just changing the filters. I believe he may mean pods.

If you are in fact switching from the stock airboxes to pod filters, you will need to rejet, and you may want to consider sending your carbs to PJ. He has mine at the moment, as I am making the switch to pods.

-Pierce
 
I understood the question. A change from the stock box to pod filters will not usually require a rejet on a 360. Other stuff, yes, just pods, no.
 
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