First Build; '75 CB360 (yes ANOTHER 360 build)

[BlueCB360]

while you in the parts ordering mood . . .

Push the piston out of the caliper with compressed air if you haven't already.

Inspect the outside diameter of the piston for rust or pitting.

This will cause the front brake to bind, leak fluid and feel inconsistent.

A new seal with a stainless steel piston is a great idea to solve this common issue.

 

[doc_rot]

Also - I did already post this in"Wheels, tires and brakes" but I'm looking for suggestions on powder coating my hubs without removing the rear sprocket stud bushings...thoughts?



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I would remove them. they weren't designed to take the heat an oven will subject them to. You could paint the hub. Im starting to think powder coating is WAY over rated personally. I have been using POR-15 hardnose paint and it is as tough as any powder i have had done. however, the hardnose does have a limited pallet, but no need for primer or a heat cure. The key is to sandblast the parts and paint immediately, just as a powder coater would. bonus is you can touch up if need be.

 

[Toyotacrawler]

Also - I did already post this in"Wheels, tires and brakes" but I'm looking for suggestions on powder coating my hubs without removing the rear sprocket stud bushings...thoughts?



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I feel your pain brother I'm having the same issue. I have new ones to install after powder, but the old ones will NOT let go of the hub. I'm almost to the point of shopping on ebay for one that already has them removed....

 

[MHDesign]

I would remove them. they weren't designed to take the heat an oven will subject them to. You could paint the hub. Im starting to think powder coating is WAY over rated personally. I have been using POR-15 hardnose paint and it is as tough as any powder i have had done. however, the hardnose does have a limited pallet, but no need for primer or a heat cure. The key is to sandblast the parts and paint immediately, just as a powder coater would. bonus is you can touch up if need be.

I definitely need to look into this paint. I've been using "VHT" paint on all of the parts that I don't powder, but the jury is still out. I haven't been able to measure wear...

Long story short, I didn't remove the bushings and worried about the temp, but have been reassured that it will work. I don't want to find out the hard way, but I think that, given this particular assembly, I should be just fine.

We'll see...


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[MHDesign]

I feel your pain brother I'm having the same issue. I have new ones to install after powder, but the old ones will NOT let go of the hub. I'm almost to the point of shopping on ebay for one that already has them removed....

Please post your solution if you have one. All solutions I found were theoretical. I left them in for powder... I don't like shortcuts but that's all I could reasonably come up with.


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[MHDesign]

Completely unrelated, but this little guy went for 10ish mile ride today now that it's 45 degrees+ in Milwaukee. I'm itching for spring...


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[MHDesign]

while you in the parts ordering mood . . .

Push the piston out of the caliper with compressed air if you haven't already.

Inspect the outside diameter of the piston for rust or pitting.

This will cause the front brake to bind, leak fluid and feel inconsistent.

A new seal with a stainless steel piston is a great idea to solve this common issue.

Thanks! Good tip. I did order all wear items for brakes and inspected the piston. The POs really had their fun with the wiring, but apparently never did a number on wear-items (or someone in the bike's recent history knew what they were doing..)

All looks to be in good shape, but I'll replace anything questionable.


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[MHDesign]

Last post before real progress...a few of the wear items that came in the mail last week.


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[Toyotacrawler]

Please post your solution if you have one. All solutions I found were theoretical. I left them in for powder... I don't like shortcuts but that's all I could reasonably come up with.


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OK. I saw this online and it just might work to get the bushings out. Take a 1/2" - 13 Self aligning tap, tap the bushing all the way down till you bottom out. Then take a 1/2"- 13 piece of all-thread grind the threads off of the end about a 1/2". Then screw the all-thread into the bushing. Put a couple of bolts on the all thread and tighten. This should pull the bushing out. I haven't tried it yet but I don't like the idea of pushing against the hub. I'm going to sandwich a piece of wood or metal between the two bolts and knock the hell out of it upward. I'll be heating the area as well with a butane torch. I'm not going to grind off 1/2" of the threads either. In the video I saw the guy did this so he wouldn't muck up the hub as the all-thread pushed against it. I won't be screwing the thread in that far.

Of course, if you are having to re-use the bushings this will not help you but hopefully you found some new ones online. I found some old stock at my local Honda shop.

Edit: I tried this method last night and posted over on my build thread. It did not work. I might need more heat I dunno.

 

[doc_rot]

I definitely need to look into this paint. I've been using "VHT" paint on all of the parts that I don't powder, but the jury is still out. I haven't been able to measure wear...

Long story short, I didn't remove the bushings and worried about the temp, but have been reassured that it will work. I don't want to find out the hard way, but I think that, given this particular assembly, I should be just fine.

We'll see...


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IMHO a big reason powder has such a good rep for durability is parts are usually sandblasted before. Most people do not take the time to sandblast parts before they paint. Blasting make a HUGE difference in prepping the substrate. Self etching primers are good too, but not as good as blasting. A quality paint on a properly sandblasted and degreased surface stands up to wear a lot better than you would expect. The hardnose paint is quite thick and while i haven't beaten the crap out of any parts i have painted with it, I had to sand a few runs on a hub I painted with it and it was a real bitch to get off. not your average paint. If you are looking for long lasting durability, and if you have the means, avoid paint in spray cans. Some of them are aren't bad these days but the paint formula will always be compromised to make it come out of a spray can.

 

[MHDesign]

OK. I saw this online and it just might work to get the bushings out. Take a 1/2" - 13 Self aligning tap, tap the bushing all the way down till you bottom out. Then take a 1/2"- 13 piece of all-thread grind the threads off of the end about a 1/2". Then screw the all-thread into the bushing. Put a couple of bolts on the all thread and tighten. This should pull the bushing out. I haven't tried it yet but I don't like the idea of pushing against the hub. I'm going to sandwich a piece of wood or metal between the two bolts and knock the hell out of it upward. I'll be heating the area as well with a butane torch. I'm not going to grind off 1/2" of the threads either. In the video I saw the guy did this so he wouldn't muck up the hub as the all-thread pushed against it. I won't be screwing the thread in that far.

Of course, if you are having to re-use the bushings this will not help you but hopefully you found some new ones online. I found some old stock at my local Honda shop.

Edit: I tried this method last night and posted over on my build thread. It did not work. I might need more heat I dunno.

I gave up and took "woodsy"'s advice and left them in because they're in good shape. I looked at the baking temp for powder and decided that the rubber would withstand it. (I'm certainly not a materials scientist, but work in product development and arrived at this decision by also talking to others that know more than I do when it comes to materials and how they hold up to certain temps, etc...)

As long as the bushings are ok, I think it really is ok to leave them alone. I've gone out of my way to replace every wear item I can get my hands on, but sometimes you have to draw a line in the sand.

Lastly-

Ideally I would have taken them out and replaced them. Keep us posted on what works for you!


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[MHDesign]

IMHO a big reason powder has such a good rep for durability is parts are usually sandblasted before. Most people do not take the time to sandblast parts before they paint. Blasting make a HUGE difference in prepping the substrate. Self etching primers are good too, but not as good as blasting. A quality paint on a properly sandblasted and degreased surface stands up to wear a lot better than you would expect. The hardnose paint is quite thick and while i haven't beaten the crap out of any parts i have painted with it, I had to sand a few runs on a hub I painted with it and it was a real bitch to get off. not your average paint. If you are looking for long lasting durability, and if you have the means, avoid paint in spray cans. Some of them are aren't bad these days but the paint formula will always be compromised to make it come out of a spray can.

Agreed on media blasting first; clean, bare metal always takes paint or powder better.

I just got my rims and hubs back from powder. They did a great job. I blasted some parts at work, but one part (rear brake / hub cover) came back with a below par finish (I didn't blast this part myself). I think they didn't clean / blast as well as I did the other parts...

I do think these parts will wear well. Paint is appropriate for a lot of components, but I'd be reluctant to use anything but powder on hubs and rims (just me perception)

...also spent Friday evening with the girlfriend watching bad movies and scratching our heads as we laced these things up:

Progress


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[MHDesign]

Update on the 360:
I had a rear hoop fabricated by a friend and welded it in:

I've been working on moving the CB200 tank forward and planning to relocate the petcock:

(Still need to make bushings for the front of the tank to achieve the desired height...)

I'm also undertaking a top-end rebuild, partial disassembly, resealing of the motor, with paint, new hardware, etc.

The pistons had a "normal" amount of carbon buildup for the wear of the motor.

(Photo after cleaning)

The cylinders were lightly scored, so I took them to my local shop for inspection/possible honing.

I was told that we should measure cylinder-to-wall clearance, and should bring the Pistons in to be safe. That will be my next step...




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[MHDesign]

Did I mention I'm learning as I go (again)? Constructive criticisms welcome as always.


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[MHDesign]

Almost left out the front end...

Front forks are nearly done; new powder coat, seals, brakes, refinishing, etc. I still need to do the final assembly, but pieced things together in an organized fashion because I like shiny things.


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[MHDesign]

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[Sonreir]

Shiny!

 

[doc_rot]

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That looks really good, but what a strange caliper setup. The earlier disk brakes were all a bit funny, you can tell the manufacturers were still figuring it out. I had a caliper off a KZ400 that was funky like that too.

 

[MHDesign]

Alright time for an update - the bike is in "mock-up" mode, with wheels trued and balanced, along with new tires. I'm now figuring out final clearances and various mounting points for components before tearing the whole thing down.

Still "to do" are seat, signal, rear fender and battery mounting points. I've done many of the stock items and now have to start thinking.

I've also made some progress on the motor-

I painted the block and covers and reinstalled them with new seals. The cylinders were honed and valves inspected / given the green light as they're within spec. The final top end rebuild will commence later this week.

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[dannywrx88]

that garage is mint