First Build; '75 CB360 (yes ANOTHER 360 build)

[dannywrx88]

Me also please


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[crazypj]

Isn't the chrome one the shiny one? I thought the cast one was the darker? ???

Not shiny until it's bedded in
The secondary compression/oil ring beds in quick and gets shiny (1~200 miles)
You can see the line of chrome n top ring. It's barrel faced so doesn't act well as an oil control.
If they had 10~15,000 miles on them it would work

 

[doc_rot]

If you are worried about clearance on full compression remove one shock and use a ratcheting strap to bottom out the remaining shock on the bike. its advisable, because wheel travel is longer than shock travel with with the axle pivoting farther out than the bottom shock mount. remember to have at least a 1/2" clearance to account for swing-arm flex and tire expansion. Looking good!

 

[MHDesign]

If you are worried about clearance on full compression remove one shock and use a ratcheting strap to bottom out the remaining shock on the bike. its advisable, because wheel travel is longer than shock travel with with the axle pivoting farther out than the bottom shock mount. remember to have at least a 1/2" clearance to account for swing-arm flex and tire expansion. Looking good!

I did this and resolved the issue. I was way too close and redesigned the brackets...

I spent all day installing the motor and mocking things up/checking clearances. My dad is in town and also helped wire the bike (as in figure out what-goes-to-what).

Special thanks to Sparck Moto; you made our day easy and enjoyable!

New game plan is to run the bike as-is and troubleshoot EVERYTHING before final tear-down.

Current state:

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[Sonreir]

Looking good!

 

[crazypj]

Unrelated to recent posts, but my knob was press-fit and HAD to be cut off. Sometimes you have to get out the tools of destruction.

I'll plan to figure out how to source / commission a machined brass knob.

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Did you figure one out yet?
I make odds and ends for people. (bit slow sometimes though ;D )
Made an aluminium one for my Katana after original fell off

 

[MHDesign]

Did you figure one out yet?
I make odds and ends for people. (bit slow sometimes though ;D )
Made an aluminium one for my Katana after original fell off

Can you turn a brass knob? That would work really well with this build. PM me...


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[MHDesign]

Alright - it's been quite a while... I ordered a new sprocket from God-knows-where months ago. It's on and has a shoulder that interferes with the factory hardware.

The nuts don't have much of a contact surface. Thoughts? Get a better "OEM" sprocket?


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[trek97]

OH well that blows. Yep send it back.

 

[MHDesign]

OH well that blows. Yep send it back.

I don't want to call out any parts resources, but I think I know where it came from. Great customer service, hit-or-miss parts. I'll have to investigate and get a new sprocket, it seems...


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[MHDesign]

I don't want to call out any parts resources, but I think I know where it came from. Great customer service, hit-or-miss parts. I'll have to investigate and get a new sprocket, it seems...


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According to the site, I didn't order the wrong part BTW...


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[MHDesign]

There is NO REASON not to do yourself the favor of dry-fitting before any paint and finish. Life will go infinitely better for you and women will find you irresistible.

I'm revisiting all of the info from those who are more knowledgable than I, and came upon the best piece of advice I've had so far: build it twice.

I don't know how I'd put this puzzle together without "dry fitting" everything first.

I like the part about irresistibility too.


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[Rpino7]

digging this build, whats the progress?

 

[MHDesign]

Alright - it's fair to say that I only post when I'm stuck (though I'm a constant lurker...)

Updates first:

...the seat pan / LED taillight housing is prototyped and nearly ready to be fab'ed in stainless.

The CB200 tank is out to a friend in MI for some more advanced metal work than I'm capable of and I've got most of the backets and such designed.

So - on to my part about a NEWB still not understanding certain systems-


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[MHDesign]

As I look at reassembly of the clutch cable assembly, I'm scratching my head. The clutch lifter rod sits behind a ball bearing attached to the clutch lever but I can't figure this out. I must be missing something. The end of the rod rides on a ball bearing and I don't have any way to positively engage the clutch. I've consulted the manual but can't seem to figure out what should be a simple assembly.

Thoughts? Insults? What am I missing?

Thanks all.


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[MHDesign]

One more pic for clarity. Ball bearing rides on rod... How does this interact with said rod?


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[Sonreir]

It pushes the rod inward when the mechanism is rotated. It sits on the more ball bearings, each have a "ramped" track so that they elevate the assembly when they turn.

 

[crazypj]

One more pic for clarity. Ball bearing rides on rod... How does this interact with said rod?


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The lever should be lower when cover is off for pics. That position is about half ~ two thirds through travel for best operation

 

[MHDesign]

The lever should be lower when cover is off for pics. That position is about half ~ two thirds through travel for best operation

Got it -this makes sense and with some more adjustment, I do see the "ramp" movement on the bearing. The rod doesn't seem to move when met with force though. I'll keep playing with it, but more thoughts and input are certainly welcome.

Thanks


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[CALfeRacer]

Clutch plates frozen together? That'll keep the rod from moving. What kind of force are you putting on it?