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Received an email today regarding my seat progress. Apparently the guy building the seat got so sick the dr. said had he waited 5 more hours he would have died. So he is ok and getting better but not working in the shop. So that part is on hold for a while.
Got the motor put in today. Also did a little welding.
Shift linkage is a little short, will have to make up a longer one.
Welded frame braces. Once i tear the bike down and sand blast it I will smooth out all my welds.
Im hoping that i can fit a 12ah battery under the seat so i can use my electric start all the time and loose the kick. It will take a bit of work to keep it and i just assume loose it.
Looks like your peg folds up, I can convert the toe on your brake pedal to do the same.
That way you can keep it. Kickers are good....
Love the bike by the way and I'm glad to hear the tin man is gonna be ok....
Doctors are only "practicing medicine"....where are the one's that know what the hell they're doing? I wanna go there...
The 4runner was fun but i had so much trouble with the motor i sold the dam thing. Plus it didnt make a great backdrop for my pictures. Now i use my 64 tbird under a cover.
Rebuilt 22re. Then blown head, then sheared the timing gear off the cam, then new con rod bearings. All that with only 40k on the motor. I got tired of working on it. I like to work on bikes but i hate to work on cars.
Sounds like it got too hot at some point.
I ran mine 22/20r in the hotrod for some....250,000 miles without any major failure.
22r with EFI pistons (higher compression), 20r head with a 288*/.474" cam and lots of porting, Long tube header and dual 40dcoe's for the last 100k. Made my 81 celica loads of fun.
Trying to figure out how to keep the kick start. So far what i have come up with is to add a quick realease pin to the brake linkage so that if i need to use the kicker i just pull the pin and let the brake pedal fall out of the way. Then after it is started just lift the pedal and pop the pin back in.
Beware of using an aluminum pin, they sheer easily, though a stainless version might hold up. I do know from personal experience that the retention balls go away fairly quickly under vibration. We used similar quick release pins for the splitter on the front of one of the track cars and they didn't hold up long.
We chatted the other day about that but there isn't clearance for a bent kicker to tuck into the engine....
I still think a folding brake lever/pedal is the way to go...
After bending it you'll need to rotate it back a couple splines to allow it to fold into place. I did it with my XS650 and still have plenty of leverage to kick it over.
Beware of using an aluminum pin, they sheer easily, though a stainless version might hold up. I do know from personal experience that the retention balls go away fairly quickly under vibration. We used similar quick release pins for the splitter on the front of one of the track cars and they didn't hold up long.
with a double sheer, which it would be going through a clevis, it was rated at like 8500 lbs.
My current plan of attack is to use the new A123 battery and the electric start. Then also have the release pin just encase i need the kicker.
I was talking to somebody on the SOHC4 forum and he bent his kicker and welded on an extension. It looks ok but i think its kinda janky. I dont want some chopped up kicker on this bike. On one of my other cafe projects, no problem but, this one is a little more classy. At least it is to me.
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