Front End Swap Questions

J

JFarhanbod

New Member
First bike,first time working on them. I somehow decided that a front end swap would be a good idea lol. Anyways I have a 84 Gpz550 and I'm putting an 07 GSXR1000 front end on.

The Gpz550 bearing sizes are

Upper: 25x47x15
Lower: 28x52x16

The GSXR1000 are

Upper: 30x47x12
Lower: 30x52x16

Soo since the outer diameter of the 2 are the same, my plan is to use the stock gsxr bearings, triple trees and all that. Is there anything that I'm missing? Other than the stem length but according to a quick measurement (with the gpz550 front end still on the bike) they look to be almost the same length. I need the upper triple tree for the gsxr so before I spend more money, do I have the right idea with this?
 
JFarhanbod said:
First bike,first time working on them. I somehow decided that a front end swap would be a good idea lol. Anyways I have a 84 Gpz550 and I'm putting an 07 GSXR1000 front end on.

The Gpz550 bearing sizes are

Upper: 25x47x15
Lower: 28x52x16

The GSXR1000 are

Upper: 30x47x12
Lower: 30x52x16

Soo since the outer diameter of the 2 are the same, my plan is to use the stock gsxr bearings, triple trees and all that. Is there anything that I'm missing? Other than the stem length but according to a quick measurement (with the gpz550 front end still on the bike) they look to be almost the same length. I need the upper triple tree for the gsxr so before I spend more money, do I have the right idea with this?
Click to expand...

Look up https://www.allballsracing.com/ . They have bearing sets to swap almost any front end onto almost any bike.
The nice Gentleman.Mr Von Yinzer gave me the tip.
 
Do I need conversion bearings if I'm using all the gsxr front end parts though? Or do I have the wrong idea on how the swap works?
 
Do you have the bearing races from the GSXR frame? You really should be running the same races as the donor bearings (new bearings are a good idea regardless).


Otherwise, your thinking is OK. As long as you can shim the bearings to suit the GPz neck you will be OK.


Oh - and sort out the steering stops, spring rates, ride height, etc.......lol....
 
hillsy said:
Do you have the bearing races from the GSXR frame? You really should be running the same races as the donor bearings (new bearings are a good idea regardless).


Otherwise, your thinking is OK. As long as you can shim the bearings to suit the GPz neck you will be OK.


Oh - and sort out the steering stops, spring rates, ride height, etc.......lol....
Click to expand...

Ahh crap no races but the ones on the gpz frame are the same OD. Either way I'll probably order some new bearings just for the peace of mind.

The weights between the 2 bikes are similar so spring rate should be ok (hopefully) I sorta accepted that it gonna be lower like 4 inches but the front was so damn high before that its alright, just gotta figure out something with the rear to level it out (monoshock for the lose) as far as the steering stops, I have no idea what those even look like lmao but I'll figure it out hopefully
 
The All Balls conversion bearings will also include spacers if needed. Put in new bearings, fer fuck sake! They don't cost that much.
 
AlphaDogChoppers said:
The All Balls conversion bearings will also include spacers if needed. Put in new bearings, fer fuck sake! They don't cost that much.
Click to expand...

Exactly. The old ones you put in could have worn bearings or races or you'll be replacing them in 6 months... Just use the conversion chart on all balls site, order them right away and shazaam!! Perfect conversion that will last forever if greased properly and more as needed... I just did my 79 kz650 with an 88 fzr1000 and all balls made it work perfect and was damn near idiot proof... I think it cost me a total of $37.00.
 
Front End Swap Questions

Yep! I'm gonna do the bearings for the peace of mind. It sucks that it's 60 bucks but that's better than doing it twice
 
Use a shitload of grease and try to pack it into the rollers before installing them... Forget your oem steering nut torque. It can only be 27 ft lbs +/- 2 ft lbs... There are no instructions from all balls so make sure you mock it up.several times and put the rubber seal, washer spacers (if needed), and tapered bearings in the correct order. Especially on the stem. That one is a PITA to get off once!. Also grab a 1 1/2" piece of PVC pipe from Lowes or where ever to tap the races and bearings, using a metal hammer or other metal object and you'll damage it and be out another $60.
 
You should be able to get a better price than that.

Tell you what else I like to do whenever I install steering stem bearings. I drill a 3/16" hole, and tap with a 1/4-28 tap for a zerk fitting. I manually grease the bearings on installation, then when it's all together, I pump the stem full of grease with a grease gun. I use Green Grease, because it does not separate in hot weather and drip out. It is so thick and sticky that it makes the front end fell like you installed a hydraulic steering damper.
 
Where on the headstock ADC? Because I've been considering that for the daily rider Savage project and the car show "freak people out because it is green and cream and I have a badge" CL72... What, Lisa's grandfather was a motor officer, we have his badges, guns, and the growler siren off his Henderson...

1920s badge, looks fake even though it is a real deal. Ought to be good for a few laughs with the truck club...
 
I just pick a strategic spot that won't interfere with cables or wiring harness.

I forgot to mention, that I don't go full depth with the tap. I make the tapped hole be a bit tapered by only going in part way with the tap, sort of like a tapered pipe tap. That way I get a thread seal with the zerk.

It takes like half a tube of grease to fill it up, but you know that water can't get in if it is filled up completely with grease.

Some steering stems have some sort of vent. Like my Suzuki GS450 had two small holes in the side of the steering stem housing. Some steering stems have slots in the hollow stem near the bottom. You have to be sure that all openings like that are closed up.

If you use general purpose grease, it will make a huge mess on hot summer days as the grease melts and separates and drips out of the bottom. Green Grease won't do that.

7070077_ggr_101_pri_larg.jpg
 
Ahhh I wrote up a big post but it got deleted. Oh well.

I ordered the bearings, came out to 60 for the top in bottom which aint bad. Cool that it comes with the spacers too, makes it plug n play.

How important are the steering stops? I dont really have any welding skills so I dont think I can make new ones.

ADC do you have pics of the setup your talking about? I kinda of get it but im more of a visual learner.

Thanks!
 
You drill through the neck and the race? Or are you saying to put a zerc in the neck itself and fill the whole steering stem cavity with grease?
 
o1marc said:
You drill through the neck and the race? Or are you saying to put a zerc in the neck itself and fill the whole steering stem cavity with grease?
Click to expand...

No, you would never drill through the race. It's just one zerk somewhere in the neck, and you pump the whole thing full of grease. Takes like half a tube of grease to fill it up.

I got the idea from Harley. Most models of Harleys have a zerk in the steering stem. They are just greased like any other bike from the factory, so the first time they get greased as routine service, it takes a shitload of grease to fill it up. Harley even sells a specific "Heavy Duty Grease" for the steering stem, because hot weather will cause general purpose greases to separate and drip out of the bottom bearing. I used to use Lucas Red and Tacky, but I have since found that Green Grease is even better at not separating.
 
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