Hoosier Daddy
Earache my eye...
Good eye teazer, I sent him a PM on another forum asking the same question. He an I been working on bleeding his brakes from the M/C down... then I saw the same as you.
GS1100g Cafe Racer - Project Romesy
- Thread starter oohsam
- Start date
Good eye teazer, I sent him a PM on another forum asking the same question. He an I been working on bleeding his brakes from the M/C down... then I saw the same as you.
W00000000000000000000000000000000000000000000t!
Sorry for the excitement. It turns out that Hoosier, sent me a PM, possibly to avoid embarrassing me...about my bleeding issue on my calipers.
Firstly. He pointed out that my bleeder in the previous pics, are on the bottom of the caliper. They should be up the top...I put them on the wrong sides, and thus, upside down, and thus allowing the air to be trapped up the top and i was bleeding from the bottom.
I swapped them when i got home from work, and 5 mins of bleeding, I had a rock solid brake lever. I spent days on this, with nothing, then 5 mins of it (the right way up) and I have brakes as solid as boulder.
Thanks Hoosier! Life saver
wont be making that mistake again lol
here is the latest...
Just continuing assembly...
So, when I build my new rearset mounts to take the rearsets off a GSXR, I fabricated some new mounts, worked out the height I wanted, and spot welded the brackets. Then I fitted the rearsets and made some adjustments and continued to weld the brackets.
I was very happy with the result.
When I went to fit the rearsets today, I realised the rearset linkage was a tad short, so I got some 6mm rod, cut to size and welded it to the linkage...all went well...
Until I kicked up the kickstand :O oh oh...
I never, ever, during fabrication kicked up the stand with the rearsets mounted, so I have a slight issue.
Top View...The actual kickstand will clear the gear lever and linkage so it should be ok.
After looking at my R6, I realised this is a common issue so they resolved it by placing the kick bar half way up the stand...I wish I tested this before becuase now i have to cut off the kick bar, and weld it half way up the stand, which means the powdercoat will be ruinined. So I'm just going to sandblast it down to raw, and after its fixed Ill paint it black...Not so bad.
More on this later
Sorry for the excitement. It turns out that Hoosier, sent me a PM, possibly to avoid embarrassing me...about my bleeding issue on my calipers.
Firstly. He pointed out that my bleeder in the previous pics, are on the bottom of the caliper. They should be up the top...I put them on the wrong sides, and thus, upside down, and thus allowing the air to be trapped up the top and i was bleeding from the bottom.
I swapped them when i got home from work, and 5 mins of bleeding, I had a rock solid brake lever. I spent days on this, with nothing, then 5 mins of it (the right way up) and I have brakes as solid as boulder.
Thanks Hoosier! Life saver
wont be making that mistake again lol here is the latest...
Just continuing assembly...
So, when I build my new rearset mounts to take the rearsets off a GSXR, I fabricated some new mounts, worked out the height I wanted, and spot welded the brackets. Then I fitted the rearsets and made some adjustments and continued to weld the brackets.
I was very happy with the result.
When I went to fit the rearsets today, I realised the rearset linkage was a tad short, so I got some 6mm rod, cut to size and welded it to the linkage...all went well...
Until I kicked up the kickstand :O oh oh...
I never, ever, during fabrication kicked up the stand with the rearsets mounted, so I have a slight issue.
Top View...The actual kickstand will clear the gear lever and linkage so it should be ok.
After looking at my R6, I realised this is a common issue so they resolved it by placing the kick bar half way up the stand...I wish I tested this before becuase now i have to cut off the kick bar, and weld it half way up the stand, which means the powdercoat will be ruinined. So I'm just going to sandblast it down to raw, and after its fixed Ill paint it black...Not so bad.
So I decided I should get this kickstand sorted out before anything else.
It was tricky as I had to leave it on whilst I determined the best
a) location while stand is up
b) location while stand is down
c) tack it on so I can complete the weld
I never weld flat | flat..there is always a V cut out of the metal I weld so I can get a good bond in both peices of steel Im welding. The only issue is its really hard to keep a piece in the same place while welding...and my magnet had no affect on the round steel.
Yes..I know what it looks like ya filthy mongrels! Fancy welding I say !
Ended up getting it done with a few cuss words and a few little hot pieces of weld on me !!
Looks ok in black me thinks. In hindsight, I probably should have moved the kicker down 1-2cms so its lower than the centre to help it swivel...but it sorta works well enough for me. meh...
While I was at it, I thought I should start rebuilding the rear caliper as its in a sick state.
Got it for 25 bux on peebay.
Here's what it looked like when I pulled it apart...
And now...
My worst fears, one of the pistons has a really deep gash type pit in it. Its un-useable. The other piston came out ok.
Basically pulled them out and soaked them in CLR for about 5 hours. Cleaned up good, there's still a tiny bit of cleaning left to do in the piston chamber but its pretty darn good.
Called suzuki today, they said the pistons are in stock and they cost 80 dollars for a pair. unfortunately thats more than im willing to part with..So ill have to take alternative measures...watch this space on the rest of my caliper rebuild.
On she goes!
It was tricky as I had to leave it on whilst I determined the best
a) location while stand is up
b) location while stand is down
c) tack it on so I can complete the weld
I never weld flat | flat..there is always a V cut out of the metal I weld so I can get a good bond in both peices of steel Im welding. The only issue is its really hard to keep a piece in the same place while welding...and my magnet had no affect on the round steel.
Yes..I know what it looks like ya filthy mongrels! Fancy welding I say !
Ended up getting it done with a few cuss words and a few little hot pieces of weld on me !!
Looks ok in black me thinks. In hindsight, I probably should have moved the kicker down 1-2cms so its lower than the centre to help it swivel...but it sorta works well enough for me. meh...
While I was at it, I thought I should start rebuilding the rear caliper as its in a sick state.
Got it for 25 bux on peebay.
Here's what it looked like when I pulled it apart...
And now...
My worst fears, one of the pistons has a really deep gash type pit in it. Its un-useable. The other piston came out ok.
Basically pulled them out and soaked them in CLR for about 5 hours. Cleaned up good, there's still a tiny bit of cleaning left to do in the piston chamber but its pretty darn good.
Called suzuki today, they said the pistons are in stock and they cost 80 dollars for a pair. unfortunately thats more than im willing to part with..So ill have to take alternative measures...watch this space on the rest of my caliper rebuild.
On she goes!
rat_ cxn
Been Around the Block
before you apply stripper you have to scratch the paint up good and propper with either some 40 g sand paper or a screw driver.. this way the stripper will get right under the paint layers and lift the whole lot off at once.. Also after you apply the stripper cover the whole tank in plastic to seal the stripper in for about an hour.. then it will come off easy
rat_ cxn
Been Around the Block
Hahahaha man some of the things i used to do on a bike when i was young i prob should be dead. i look back in horror now i wish i had pics. this was 15 years ago before the age of digital cameras. all i know is it would have eaten my yzf r6 for breakfast in a straight line. it had all wisco internals the guy who built it raced speedway side cars so and ran the same sort of engine in his speedway bike. he buit the motor the same way he built his race bikes.. I just looked up what modern super bikes are pulling in the quarters and it seams they average in the 10, also. If i can get hold of a scanner i will scan an old photo for you
Thats awesome man....if ya cant get a scanner i'll accept a mobile phone pic of it uploaded to this site! hehe..
10 seconds back then, is like 3 seconds down the quarter now....
Yeah, I reckon its coz you had a heightened sense of danger on those killer things, then when you jump on something like that your brain goes "piece of piss" and ya maybe ur not on the defensive...
bah.
Hope ur ok man
I ride a yzfr6 also.
10 seconds back then, is like 3 seconds down the quarter now....
Yeah, I reckon its coz you had a heightened sense of danger on those killer things, then when you jump on something like that your brain goes "piece of piss" and ya maybe ur not on the defensive...
bah.
Hope ur ok man
I ride a yzfr6 also.
rat_ cxn
Been Around the Block
0k here is a crappy photo of a photo.
It is actualy a 1000g but it was kitted to an 1100 and it was seriously the most powerful bike i have ever ridden. for such a heavy bike it was quite hard to keep the front end down I wish i knew more about the engine specs but unfortunately i was not as mechanically minded back then so i am not sure exactly. I let a few of my friends have a go and most of them came back looking a little pale. at the time my mate had a 1100 katana and he was the only guy i knew that was faster than mine but his was a big money bike
It is actualy a 1000g but it was kitted to an 1100 and it was seriously the most powerful bike i have ever ridden. for such a heavy bike it was quite hard to keep the front end down I wish i knew more about the engine specs but unfortunately i was not as mechanically minded back then so i am not sure exactly. I let a few of my friends have a go and most of them came back looking a little pale. at the time my mate had a 1100 katana and he was the only guy i knew that was faster than mine but his was a big money bike
Man that is a very nice example of a GS you have there! Looks good!
Today was a total bitch of a day on the bike.
I've got the forks all disassembled, ready for the rebuild with progressives. Spent a good 2 hours cleaning the inner fork tubes and repainting the lower fork tubes. The first time I painted them, was a bit of a rush job...
I also decided to fit my new EBC clutch kit. Upon removing the existing clutch, I noticed that the current clutch is actually in pristine condition. All measurements were up to spec, So I decided to keep the curent clutch, and save my EBC kit for another day.
I also fitted the the clutch engine cover. I've replaced all the engine bolts with SS hex bolts, but they wouldnt drive in all the way.
I stuck a little screwdriver in there to see, and there was some bouncy resitance in the thread...strange.
Kept poking for about 20 mins, and I managed to get out a little rubber silicon piece about 5mm in length.
It looks like the PO used shorter bolts and filled the holes in silicone. I'm thinking it was liquid gasket and its the remaining residue that got onto the screw(s) and dried up inside the thread. Every screw had this issue and it took me 2 hours to clean it all out.
Pain in the ass. But its done now and the hex bolts tighten up nice now.....what a shitty shitty job....anyway its done now!
Today was a total bitch of a day on the bike.
I've got the forks all disassembled, ready for the rebuild with progressives. Spent a good 2 hours cleaning the inner fork tubes and repainting the lower fork tubes. The first time I painted them, was a bit of a rush job...
I also decided to fit my new EBC clutch kit. Upon removing the existing clutch, I noticed that the current clutch is actually in pristine condition. All measurements were up to spec, So I decided to keep the curent clutch, and save my EBC kit for another day.
I also fitted the the clutch engine cover. I've replaced all the engine bolts with SS hex bolts, but they wouldnt drive in all the way.
I stuck a little screwdriver in there to see, and there was some bouncy resitance in the thread...strange.
Kept poking for about 20 mins, and I managed to get out a little rubber silicon piece about 5mm in length.
It looks like the PO used shorter bolts and filled the holes in silicone. I'm thinking it was liquid gasket and its the remaining residue that got onto the screw(s) and dried up inside the thread. Every screw had this issue and it took me 2 hours to clean it all out.
Pain in the ass. But its done now and the hex bolts tighten up nice now.....what a shitty shitty job....anyway its done now!
So, I got the rear brake pistons, PeterStevo's ended up being able to get a set in for me, for like 40 bux. Which is only 8 dollars more than in the US. So it was ok.
I had to order some other stuff from them anyway so it was no biggie. Came in 1 day.
To my surprise, the PISTON set that is listed on the fische, includes
2 x Pistons
2 x dust seals
2 x Piston seals
2 x bleeder seal
I was surprised that it came with all the bits needed for a rebuild! happy bout that.
Put it all together...with some new brake pads. Came up ok...
Then fitted and bled the brake line. Took all of 15 mins. Dunno why the rear brake line I ordered (which came in a set from Goodridge), is freakin really long. Maybe I got it mixed up with the brake line that goes from the front master cylinder to the Splitter (before going to my front brakes)....its a bit shorter, but I think a little too short.
Meh, I just loopedy loop and cable tied it down. Should be ok.
Was glad that the piston seals etc. didn't leak...Looks ok me thinks.
The rear brake is highly over rated anyway, I rarely use it.
Also got new plugs, oil filter and some other bits and bobs for the bike. Plan is to get the wiring finished off this weekend, filler up with oil, and give her a crank.
Any tips for starting the bike after its been sitting for months...spesh since there is no oil in the engine. Do i have to crank it a bit first to get the oil through or whats the deal?
I had to order some other stuff from them anyway so it was no biggie. Came in 1 day.
To my surprise, the PISTON set that is listed on the fische, includes
2 x Pistons
2 x dust seals
2 x Piston seals
2 x bleeder seal
I was surprised that it came with all the bits needed for a rebuild! happy bout that.
Put it all together...with some new brake pads. Came up ok...
Then fitted and bled the brake line. Took all of 15 mins. Dunno why the rear brake line I ordered (which came in a set from Goodridge), is freakin really long. Maybe I got it mixed up with the brake line that goes from the front master cylinder to the Splitter (before going to my front brakes)....its a bit shorter, but I think a little too short.
Meh, I just loopedy loop and cable tied it down. Should be ok.
Was glad that the piston seals etc. didn't leak...Looks ok me thinks.
The rear brake is highly over rated anyway, I rarely use it.
Also got new plugs, oil filter and some other bits and bobs for the bike. Plan is to get the wiring finished off this weekend, filler up with oil, and give her a crank.
Any tips for starting the bike after its been sitting for months...spesh since there is no oil in the engine. Do i have to crank it a bit first to get the oil through or whats the deal?
