help please

[Tune-A-Fish]

check and see if the cable is tight at the throttle, should have a very small amount of slack and should snap shut without back twisting, the main is a bit on the big side, but wont effect idle really unless way too big... if you have a 105 - 110 throw that in also try 1 1/2 turns out on the air screw. The idle circuit basically consist of the pilot, needle and air mix along with the actual idle screw to set rpm, you are going to get one of two... a good hot idle or cold start idle with this thing and rarely both, cold idle is what a choke is for, not just for winter starts. How does it run off idle over 2500 - 3000 rpm? is it popping during acceleration or deceleration? what happens if you do back twist the throttle? rpm's up or down? One more thing I haven't mentioned id the advancer behind the points, could be binding from some dirt or worse rust.

The "spike" sounds like its lean still and when you open (raise the needle)

 

[Ellwood]

I had symptoms similar in some ways... My petcock had taken a dump and ran so slow it would run for about 10 minutes till the bowl was dry then I had to wait for it to fill. So baseline for me. Will always include a check on the the flow from the tank.

 

[crazypj]

Fuel screws
in = lean
out = richer to max pilot jet can supply through bypass ports.
Crappy fuel, lasts around 2 WEEKS then starts to deteriorate.
1 year later, clean the fucking carb properly

 

[CaferacerMO]

Well guys, here's the update.
First and foremost thank you to everyone who offered advice.
The points was off, as well as a bad valve, got that all adjusted and she was running top again. That being sad in the middle of my ride across town, she began popping and sputtering until she died, then I had no lights. At this point I was shitting my pants.
Finally after the long pushing trip home, I test the stator to find out my stators gone bad. I'm about to order a new stator and continue testing from there.
What a week.