HollywoodMX's xv920/TR1 Cafe super-dupe!

Well it looks like I do have an update.

Got some light weight goodies in! Driven had to make the sprocket. Not too many gsxr 1000s out there running a 38T sprocket.. Lol.
 

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Easy labor.. Lol. As a positive I did some preliminary measuring and it looks like I won't need that drastic of an offset counter sprocket which is good.
 

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Re: Re: HollywoodMX's xv920/TR1 Cafe super-dupe!

neevo said:
Pure sex those wheels!

Thanks man! Ya i love them. They of course even look better in person. I have a friend who's going to take extra care in putting the tires on it.
 
My day for progress last weekend was consumed by getting small parts I needed. I had to get all the missing bolts for the rotors for the wheels and some more R1 parts.

I decided to clean the rotors a little in a vinegar bath.

Also made the rear mount for the gas tank spring system and welded that up.
 

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Small highlights. Rotors cleaned up gad tank secured. :)
 

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Rear set mounts done and Aligned to the mm. It was a bit of a pain to ensure the pegs are in equal positions. It's not every day you make custom control mounts UT it's been fun.

Again I'm making a video of all the control mount build once I finish them both.

Here is a teaser with a sprocket cover. Hollywood vs Yamaha. :)


ezu7e2um.jpg
 
holy chit this is something else.... the wheels are a beauty and really, not a bad price for lightweight aftermarket mags
 
Tires mounted, looks good. Test fitment tonight!

Used a product called ride on to balance so no ugly wheel weights. Ride-On is designed to hydrodynamically balance tires at highway speeds. Once installed in a tire, it will actually act to dampen vibrations for the life of a tire so you do not need periodic rebalancing.

Also auto seals leaks automatically.
 

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Finnigan said:
Those wheels look so freaking good, are those track tires?

CT2's! I was a little disappointed in my Metzlers M5's on my kz not being overly balanced tires from the factory, I gave up balancing them and went balance beads.
 
Ok wheels on. ;D!!!

I forgot to weight the front but I will.

Rear xv rim with 130 tire, sprocket and drum =46lbs

Rear forged rim with cush, 190 tire, sprocket and brake disc = 31lbs.

Rear rotational savings = 15lbs!!

Equivalent Rear unsprung savings = 30lbs

Dynomag says saving rotation weight equates to double static weight.
 

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More goodness and sprocket alignment.
 

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The good:

- They look bad ass.
- Front fits 100% perfect.
- Rear sprocket alignment is wont be a major concern. A 3/8's offset looks to be what I will need which is no big deal.

The Bad:

- The rear sprocket bolts are hitting the swing arm.
- Which is also not allowing it to center causing it to rub on the rear brake side.

BUT I think I can fix it with custom axle holders. The trick will be to make sure the custom axle holders line up 100% perfect. I have an idea for but it easier said then done.
 

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Hi!
Always like watching another XV build.
I feel your pain with the chain alignment problems. I calculated the biggest tire I could use was a 180mm(V-rod) rear tire if I used a 520 chain, a MikesXS 520 countershaft sprocket made for the 650 Yamahas and still keep the rear wheel centered... but, if you've read some of our posts, I have a slight clearance issue between the tire and the chain.
I checked it again the other day and probably no more than a couple mm, so going to do what Beachcomber and others have advised for ages - a spacer to move the wheel to the right a bit while maintaining chain alignment. From what I've been told and read, up to 1/2 inch rear wheel offset is not uncommon and shouldn't affect the handling...
So I guess I'm wondering:
- could your rim take a 180? If so, then you might not need the offset countershaft sprocket,
- not that familiar with your rim, but could you keep the chain alignment correct and space the rear sprocket out from the hub like I'm going to do (you probably only need about 8mm max, correct?), moving the rim to the right,
- regarding the fouling of the rear sprocket studs on the chain adjuster, can the studs be made shorter or exchanged for bolts? My HD rear hub uses American nuts and bolts and I can get aerospace grade "half height" locking nuts if I need them for additional clearance but I gather your hub uses metric - so don't know if they would be available? The other thing I did one time, was to machine down the height of the bolt heads - seemed a little dodgey I know but it worked the life of the project (and you would still have to exchange your existing studs for bolts),
- and this one is pretty far out there - saw it on Walter Villa's 250cc Harley (Aermacchi) two stroke twin at Daytona in 1975 or thereabouts - his bike's rear sprockets were held on with a big internal C-clip that clipped into grooves in the studs. Made for real quick gearing changes but honestly, don't know how great it would be on a street bike with a lot more torque...
Just a few suggestions, hints and observations.
Beautiful build so far.
Pat
 
pacomotorstuff said:
Hi!
Always like watching another XV build.
I feel your pain with the chain alignment problems. I calculated the biggest tire I could use was a 180mm(V-rod) rear tire if I used a 520 chain, a MikesXS 520 countershaft sprocket made for the 650 Yamahas and still keep the rear wheel centered... but, if you've read some of our posts, I have a slight clearance issue between the tire and the chain.
I checked it again the other day and probably no more than a couple mm, so going to do what Beachcomber and others have advised for ages - a spacer to move the wheel to the right a bit while maintaining chain alignment. From what I've been told and read, up to 1/2 inch rear wheel offset is not uncommon and shouldn't affect the handling...
So I guess I'm wondering:
- could your rim take a 180? If so, then you might not need the offset countershaft sprocket,
- not that familiar with your rim, but could you keep the chain alignment correct and space the rear sprocket out from the hub like I'm going to do (you probably only need about 8mm max, correct?), moving the rim to the right,
- regarding the fouling of the rear sprocket studs on the chain adjuster, can the studs be made shorter or exchanged for bolts? My HD rear hub uses American nuts and bolts and I can get aerospace grade "half height" locking nuts if I need them for additional clearance but I gather your hub uses metric - so don't know if they would be available? The other thing I did one time, was to machine down the height of the bolt heads - seemed a little dodgey I know but it worked the life of the project (and you would still have to exchange your existing studs for bolts),
- and this one is pretty far out there - saw it on Walter Villa's 250cc Harley (Aermacchi) two stroke twin at Daytona in 1975 or thereabouts - his bike's rear sprockets were held on with a big internal C-clip that clipped into grooves in the studs. Made for real quick gearing changes but honestly, don't know how great it would be on a street bike with a lot more torque...
Just a few suggestions, hints and observations.
Beautiful build so far.
Pat

Yo Pat!

Thanks for the comments.

My chain alignment is good actually. On my kz it was more of an pain than this bike. All I am going to have to do is weld the back of the 630 sprocket onto the 520, dish out the 520 and I am golden.

Offset CS sprockets don't really negatively affect the the handling, the bigger issues is it can more more strain on crank bearings in higher HP applications. The farther you go out the higher risk. It's not uncommon to have 5/8s offset and not need the extra support. On my KZ I have the outer bearing support that they use on drag bikes because it was 5/8s and the bike puts out a lot of jam.

In my case the 190 tire fits just fine. My rims are 09 gsxr 1000 so 190 rear is stock. :) I have a 1/2 inch between the tire and the chain. I think in your case your having tire rubbing chain problems because either your rim wasn't meant for the larger tire or you machined your cush down.

As far as solutions I was thinking about switching to nuts but that is only going to gain me a few mm and I think I need to gain at least 4mm because on the brake side there currently isn't room for the xv chain adjuster. Before I got to this issue I was going to use the xv axle bolt and get a custom tube made for the wheels to resize the gsxr axle size to fit the 920 axle. Now that I'm rubbing on the axle adjusters I'm thinking of widening the adjusters and bore them out to fix the gsxr axle.

My current idea is to weld new plates that have the gsxr axle holes in them at the outside of the chain adjuster area of the swingwarm and use the stock axle holes for alignment then remove the old xv swing arm material. It's a bit involved but would do a good job on getting the alignment right. I'm not sure how people true custom swing arms without a jig.
 
Hi again,
Sounds like you have some great ideas to resolve the fouling dilemma for your rear sprocket. A good jig would be required to weld different axle plates to the swinger but I can't see why not.
A little clarification on my rear wheel; it's a brand new Harley, bought from a HD dealer, 5.5X18 inch rim width, same as the early V Rods. The 180/18 Avon tire is the same one that Harley supplied for the V Rod, so the tire is correct for the rim. So far, so good...
Where things diverged between Harley and me, is the final drive.
I'm using an alloy Azusa Industries 520 pitch sprocket, machined to match the HD hub's bolt pattern, but Harley uses a final drive pulley which is dished outward to give plenty of room for the 180 tire, so that's where my problem lays.
I need an 1/8 of an inch at most, for chain clearance. The chain rivets just "tick" the edge of the Avon and I suspect that another brand of 180/18 might not even have the problem.
I'll start on the sprocket spacer next week after this latest cold snap is over (-25C high forecasted for a couple of days this week) 'cause the bike is in an unheated storage area.
In retrospect, my biggest problem with the conversion was my "obsessive-compulsive" need to have the rear wheel right on the centerline, so maybe I can call this, "live and learn"?
BTW, Harley never used cush drives on the hub I have, so I'm considering a spring loaded chain compensator along the bottom run of the chain.
The XV's are great bikes to modify - no two end up alike.
Love your build.
Pat
 
pacomotorstuff said:
Hi again,
Sounds like you have some great ideas to resolve the fouling dilemma for your rear sprocket. A good jig would be required to weld different axle plates to the swinger but I can't see why not.
A little clarification on my rear wheel; it's a brand new Harley, bought from a HD dealer, 5.5X18 inch rim width, same as the early V Rods. The 180/18 Avon tire is the same one that Harley supplied for the V Rod, so the tire is correct for the rim. So far, so good...
Where things diverged between Harley and me, is the final drive.
I'm using an alloy Azusa Industries 520 pitch sprocket, machined to match the HD hub's bolt pattern, but Harley uses a final drive pulley which is dished outward to give plenty of room for the 180 tire, so that's where my problem lays.
I need an 1/8 of an inch at most, for chain clearance. The chain rivets just "tick" the edge of the Avon and I suspect that another brand of 180/18 might not even have the problem.
I'll start on the sprocket spacer next week after this latest cold snap is over (-25C high forecasted for a couple of days this week) 'cause the bike is in an unheated storage area.
In retrospect, my biggest problem with the conversion was my "obsessive-compulsive" need to have the rear wheel right on the centerline, so maybe I can call this, "live and learn"?
BTW, Harley never used cush drives on the hub I have, so I'm considering a spring loaded chain compensator along the bottom run of the chain.
The XV's are great bikes to modify - no two end up alike.
Love your build.
Pat

Ah gotcha, why don't you put a washer for each bolt in between the sprocket and wheel?
 
Finished the rear set pieces. Video will come once I'm back from vacation.
 

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