HollywoodMX's xv920/TR1 Cafe super-dupe!

[HollywoodMX]

So I had to have minor hand surgery last week.. Because of bike building of all things. Basically too much sanding and using grinders, etc, last year. Good news though trigger finger is gone and I'm full motion again.

I took next week off to see how far I can get on this build. I'm just hoping I don't loose as much time doing the electrical that I did on the last bike. Regardless should be making progress. Should have it running at minimum.

 

[Habanero52]

I had hand surgery on my right hand for trigger finger on my ring finger.. Not too bad of an experience. What helped in my recovery was moving my fingers in a rotating movement to the left. That helped with getting back full motion on the ring finger. Good luck.

 

[HollywoodMX]

Got the chain hitting problem solved.

 

[jpmobius]

Looks like a good solution. Can't see from the pics, but do you have the suspension fully extended? Looks like clearance could be reduced since your roller is attached to the swingarm. Also can't really tell what material you used, but I would think the assembly would have to endure some pretty huge loads on deceleration. Don't have any experience with an XV, but I would expect engine braking on decel to be pretty strong. That arm will see a lot of repetition getting loaded up when ever you slow down. Loving your build - glad to see you back at it!

 

[HollywoodMX]

Looks like a good solution. Can't see from the pics, but do you have the suspension fully extended? Looks like clearance could be reduced since your roller is attached to the swingarm. Also can't really tell what material you used, but I would think the assembly would have to endure some pretty huge loads on deceleration. Don't have any experience with an XV, but I would expect engine braking on decel to be pretty strong. That arm will see a lot of repetition getting loaded up when ever you slow down. Loving your build - glad to see you back at it!

The idea is it moves with the swingarm. The rear shock doesn't compress much it's pretty stiff. It's made of steel square tubing and steel plate. The arm on its own allows for some flex. Dirt bikes have them on the swingarm too for donkeys years.

I don't think it will be as stressed as you think. But a test ride will tell.

 

[claytonisbob]

What 18 tooth sprocket is that if you don't mind me asking?

 

[HollywoodMX]

What 18 tooth sprocket is that if you don't mind me asking?

Custom modified xs650 18T 520. The marker labeling is wrong stating its 530. Highest strength bolts my machinist could find. Once is running we are going to modify it further for safety reasons and to offload stress off the crank by re-enforcing the other side.. just need to get it to his shop.

 

[HollywoodMX]

Fak I had the hardest time to get the por engine paint off the engine covers. It's serious. Paint. It was a failed attempt. I laid it too thick in effort to smooth it out originally so it cured poorly. No paint remover would strip them. Had to sand them with paint stripping drill bit and various other methods, tediously.

I reinforced the welds on the chain tensioner too, then in Hollywood fashion I hid the welds cause I couldn't handle seeing them. It's a tedious process as well.

 

[JadusMotorcycleParts]

Damn impressive build man. Loving the KZ too! These bikes all yours? Or for mates/customers?

 

[pacomotorstuff]

How the heck did you drill and tap the holes in the countershaft sprocket? The Mike's XS sprocket I'm using was case hardened and a Ti coated drill wouldn't even touch it. In the end, I was able to use the original XV sprocket retainer with 2 drilled aerospace-grade bolts through a couple of the existing sprocket holes, with castellated nuts and cotter keys. Even this wasn't a slam dunk, as I had to take a stone in the Dremel and touch the sprocket holes lightly so the bolts would line up with the retainer.
Something I looked at was a big external C-clip on the countershaft sprocket - there is standard industrial part that has the right ID and thickness for the XV shaft - but never got around to sourcing one from a bearing supply company. I got the idea when I was at a bike shop that works on KTM's; they had a little MX'er in for repairs and that's what it had. It would retain the sprocket, but I was never too sure that some sort of (nylon?) bushing between the sprocket and the cases would be needed or not to stop sprocket movement inward, though as one mechanic said, if the chain alignment is correct, the sprocket shouldn't move.
I like your chain tensioner - great idea, though executed a bit differently than the ones I considering, which will be spring loaded like a dirt bike's. I'm pondering 2 designs - one frame mounted and one swing arm mounted. Aside from keeping the chain from rubbing on the pipe at full droop (same problem as you?), I think the original closed chaincase acted in the same fashion and when these bikes run with an open chain, a LOT of movement on the bottom run. In my case, the tensioner may also provide a little damping in the drivetrain since my rear hub doesn't have a cushion drive.
Great project so far, love your updates, sorry to hear about your surgery but you sound well on the way to recovery.
Pat

 

[claytonisbob]

The only thing that's going to touch the case hardening is carbide. Ive thought about turning off the small hardened layer on a lathe with a carbide tool. Just the area around where the holes would be drilled. If you can get carbide drill bits that should work too. Taping it shouldn't be a problem once the holes are drilled.

 

[HollywoodMX]

How the heck did you drill and tap the holes in the countershaft sprocket? The Mike's XS sprocket I'm using was case hardened and a Ti coated drill wouldn't even touch it. In the end, I was able to use the original XV sprocket retainer with 2 drilled aerospace-grade bolts through a couple of the existing sprocket holes, with castellated nuts and cotter keys. Even this wasn't a slam dunk, as I had to take a stone in the Dremel and touch the sprocket holes lightly so the bolts would line up with the retainer.
Something I looked at was a big external C-clip on the countershaft sprocket - there is standard industrial part that has the right ID and thickness for the XV shaft - but never got around to sourcing one from a bearing supply company. I got the idea when I was at a bike shop that works on KTM's; they had a little MX'er in for repairs and that's what it had. It would retain the sprocket, but I was never too sure that some sort of (nylon?) bushing between the sprocket and the cases would be needed or not to stop sprocket movement inward, though as one mechanic said, if the chain alignment is correct, the sprocket shouldn't move.
I like your chain tensioner - great idea, though executed a bit differently than the ones I considering, which will be spring loaded like a dirt bike's. I'm pondering 2 designs - one frame mounted and one swing arm mounted. Aside from keeping the chain from rubbing on the pipe at full droop (same problem as you?), I think the original closed chaincase acted in the same fashion and when these bikes run with an open chain, a LOT of movement on the bottom run. In my case, the tensioner may also provide a little damping in the drivetrain since my rear hub doesn't have a cushion drive.
Great project so far, love your updates, sorry to hear about your surgery but you sound well on the way to recovery.
Pat

The only thing that's going to touch the case hardening is carbide. Ive thought about turning off the small hardened layer on a lathe with a carbide tool. Just the area around where the holes would be drilled. If you can get carbide drill bits that should work too. Taping it shouldn't be a problem once the holes are drilled.

Actually my industrial machinist did the work. He said it was really tough stuff to drill. It ended up at 7/16 offset all said and done. I used the retainer clip but got rid of the tabs. He's a smart guy and made the holes slightly bigger to get perfect alignment.

I think I ended up with 18, 38? It's been so long since I got the rear sprocket made. It was custom made for me by driven.

 

[HollywoodMX]

Ok work3d on the carb extension manifolds and tapered them to avoid the carb bumb fight. That worked.

Got the battery in and the shock reservoir mounted.

Got the engine covers re painted. Not good enough for me but will do. I need to get this project moving.

 

[HollywoodMX]

Now I need to start finding places to mount electronics and controls. I tried various locations then decided to make a bracket for my ignition key and starter and voltage meter. Got the newly painted covers installed as well. It's getting close as now I'm focusing on the little things. Also tried some filter ideas and figured out the plan for the headlight mounts.

 

[HollywoodMX]

Controls mounted in the custom mount.

After we did the exhaust comparison neither option sat with me overly well. So I made a custom muffler. Now I have to do the other side, lol.

 

[HollywoodMX]

I didn't like the headlight mounts I bought so I made new ones. Still deciding on the final mounting though.

 

[HollywoodMX]

For the carbs I'm in a bit in trouble trying to fit some filters. I'm working through it, got some ideas. I'm thinking about making intakes..

 

[HollywoodMX]

Ok I spent a bunch of time to think about what to do with the intakes and the really crammed space on the clutch side. I was looking at velocity stacks, pods, velocity stacks w/pods, and tube intakes. In the end I decided I will make a ram air setup. Out of metal or carbon fiber. I actually hope carbon fiber, just trying to get some from a buddy. Im not gonna lie, I'm a bit worried about jetting with the ram air but we will see.

Another problem with ram air is its gains will never show on a regular dyno setup, neither will the actual street A/F ratio. Luck for me I bought a wide band for when it hits the streets.

 

[HollywoodMX]

Lots of progress this weekend. Will update after todays progress.

Checked the valve clearance. I have the x3's which are the second most aggressive from megacycle. I meet the megacycle clearance specs but its close. With that being done, the final blue printing is now completed and I can feel comfortable starting this beast. .

P.S that 60 tho clearance was the spec for the design of the piston way back then so good on Arias.


https://youtu.be/L8Yugfrx8mc

 

[HollywoodMX]

All set for the oil cooler! In line oil pressure and check valve too.

I figure I will wait till she's running before installing in case I have any leaks and I plan on swapping the oil real early so no point having the extra volume.

Man the fittings were PRICEY!