JPMs 1977 Suzuki GS550 REDUX

I hear you and it was/is a concern of mine also. I do have a pretty good forced air thing going on into the elec pan. I'm going to cross my fingers, keep a close eye on it and will make a change if necessary.
 
JPM said:
I hear you and it was/is a concern of mine also. I do have a pretty good forced air thing going on into the elec pan. I'm going to cross my fingers, keep a close eye on it and will make a change if necessary.


If the RR is flush mounted onto the tray beneath it will act as a heatsink and be cooled as you ride.
 
I actually have the R/R on spacers. I thought it would help to have more airflow. Think I should remove and mount direct?

 
I didn't realize it had fins on the under side as well - maybe keep it as it is and just monitor the heat that's coming out of it. You could then try it flush mounted and see if that makes a difference later on.
 
Could always drill a hole pattern underneath to let more air in .. better check and see if chamfering the holes would be correct or not!
 
Need wiring help!!

Flasher not flashing. What am I missing here? From the battery, the power goes into the fuse block which then goes into one lug on the flasher. The other lug goes to the turn signal handlebar control. If I bypass the flasher entirely and go directly from the fuse block to the turn switch, everything works as it should just no flash. When I introduce the flasher into the system, no lights except the dash indicator. If I switch the lugs around on the flasher, I get nothing (no indicator either).

By the way, got it started yesterday and rode around the block. Getting close...
 
JPM said:
Need wiring help!!

Flasher not flashing. What am I missing here? From the battery, the power goes into the fuse block which then goes into one lug on the flasher. The other lug goes to the turn signal handlebar control. If I bypass the flasher entirely and go directly from the fuse block to the turn switch, everything works as it should just no flash. When I introduce the flasher into the system, no lights except the dash indicator. If I switch the lugs around on the flasher, I get nothing (no indicator either).

By the way, got it started yesterday and rode around the block. Getting close...
so when u insert the flasher, the indicator light in the dash is blinking, but not the indicator itself?
Have you checked the indicator without the lens on it, to see if the tungsten glows even a little bit? Maybe the flasher is worn out and can't handle the current anymore.

Anyway, the flasher will be fucked I gues.

Buy some new ones in the shop if you want them fast,
buy them from this link if you want them cheap, adjustable but long shipping times.
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/12V-2-Pin-Adjustable-Frequency-LED-Flasher-Relay-Turn-Signal-Indicator-For-Motorcycle-Motorbike-fix-Blinker/32578815610.html
 
Using a brand new universal flasher relay. Everything works fine (except flashing) with no flasher in the mix. Lose both front and rear led turn signals with flasher in the circuit and still no flashing on the indicator. They are going to send a new flasher. Hopefully this one is just defective.
 
I'm having same problem with mine I've had 3 different relays now still no joy .let us no how you get on
 
Is the relay adapted to led indicators?
Normal relays are load dependant. And the load of the LED's is much lower than normal bulbs.
 
I put about 25 miles on it today starting the tuning process. Starts and idles pretty well but bogs down at initial throttle. I am going back to the 15 primary jet instead of the 25 I put in. Hope that helps. Runs pretty good at higher RPMs. Exhaust sounds like a complete beast.

My original speedo cable broke today so new one is ordered.

Tank paint is bubbling where the badge was. Not sure what happened but I can foresee a winter repaint is going to be in my future. Really bummed because it looked pretty good for a month then I put gas in the tank and now bubbling. Maybe some pin holes causing fumes or gas to escape?
 
Ok GS experts, what's the trick to remove the tank without fuel going everywhere? This vacuum petcock with no off position is driving me crazy!
 
JPM said:
Ok GS experts, what's the trick to remove the tank without fuel going everywhere? This vacuum petcock with no off position is driving me crazy!
well, if fuel comes running out of a vacuum petcock while removing the tank, your petcock is shot :)
 
Blinker issue is resolved. I want to give a big should out to Matthew at Sparck Moto for sending out a replacement flasher relay really quickly. Unplugged the old, plugged the new and blinkers work properly. Thanks.

Went on some plug chop runs this afternoon trying to identify why it's not running quite right.

Half Throttle Chop - I'm not an expert by any means but they looked a little lean to me due to the smokey greyish coloring. Left to right is cylinders 4,3,2,1



Full Throttle Chop - Again, looks lean but the bike actually would not really accelerate or run well at all under full throttle. Bogged down so I may not have gotten the best readings. This time, left to right is cylinders 1,2,3,4.



Thoughts? Lean at half throttle tells me needle needs to be raised. Lean at full throttle tells me main jets need to increased also. I am 'leaning' towards increasing the mains by 1 and retesting.
 
Don't increaase the mains. That color seems just fine, leaning to rich for the most left spark plug it seems. The third one from the left seems perfect to me.
(My preference is to run a bit rich, with as goal to let the engine run a bit less warm.)

The half throttle chop seems too lean indeed. Try raising your needle.

Are you shutting off the bike at full throttle, or at full throttle and almost max rpm?
You should choose your main jet based on the readings around 7500 rpm if you rev limit is at 9500 or so, while at full throttle.

Your main jet is fully used at full throttle, at all engine speeds. But you have to tune it where you want your power, at the top rpm. At lower rpm you have lower air speeds, and the main jet feed becomes leaner.
 
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