Kawasaki 250 F11B - dads old bike
- Thread starter jaderd
- Start date
jaderd
Been Around the Block
Cheers mate, think he will be thrilled when he sees it done, he comes to melbourne fairly frequently which is good and he still has his motorbike licence as never lapses etc...he can take it for a spin.
Aim is to be complete by spring/summer so around 3-4 more months away which is def feasible i think.
Aim is to be complete by spring/summer so around 3-4 more months away which is def feasible i think.
jaderd
Been Around the Block
quick update, havent done alot lately, cleaned up my rear baffle etc...will prob paint it black to match exhaust or leave it bare metal for a bit of contrast...dunno yet.
have saved up my meager allowance i give myself and the missus to buy some parts.
Have grabbed things that i know i will need for the rebuilding of the bike, my orig stuff was missing or broken etc.
pics below
Kick Start Boss, my old one had snapped at the pin
Rear Chain Tensioner, mine had some homemade jobs on there
Front and rear wheel bearings
Vintage Cross Bar pad....similar colors to bike with the blue in their
have saved up my meager allowance i give myself and the missus to buy some parts.
Have grabbed things that i know i will need for the rebuilding of the bike, my orig stuff was missing or broken etc.
pics below
Kick Start Boss, my old one had snapped at the pin
Rear Chain Tensioner, mine had some homemade jobs on there
Front and rear wheel bearings
Vintage Cross Bar pad....similar colors to bike with the blue in their
julian5000
Active Member
parts! small steps are good. with my build i'm happy as long as it's moving, i'm not too fussed how quickly it moves. it's as much about the process as the product.
jaderd
Been Around the Block
This arvo i spent hour or two and did the second fork so that i could do a mock piece up of some of the front end, need to see how it will look to keep me inspired and moving on.
Happy with how it looks, some pics below, the tacho n speedo i am going to drop the bracket lower by around 5-8cm so that it sits flush with the top triple as opposed to stock, this will fit better as i have/will drop the headlight down so that is more inline with the tank/seat/rear tail...didnt like how it sat up high.
Will also let the forks pop through the top triple by maybe an inch to lower the front end slightly.
Just doing this mock up has made me heaps enthused to keep doing more of the cleaning/sanding/polishing/painting that is needed before any actual putting back together.
Cheers
*note headlight brackets were upside down in garage pics, rectified in pics inside house.
Happy with how it looks, some pics below, the tacho n speedo i am going to drop the bracket lower by around 5-8cm so that it sits flush with the top triple as opposed to stock, this will fit better as i have/will drop the headlight down so that is more inline with the tank/seat/rear tail...didnt like how it sat up high.
Will also let the forks pop through the top triple by maybe an inch to lower the front end slightly.
Just doing this mock up has made me heaps enthused to keep doing more of the cleaning/sanding/polishing/painting that is needed before any actual putting back together.
Cheers
*note headlight brackets were upside down in garage pics, rectified in pics inside house.
jaderd
Been Around the Block
It is getting a bit cold now....ducted heating is turned off to that room though as not used 
Arvo all,
just had a closer look at rear sprocket, i am aware the front is dead and needs replacing.
Please have a look at pics below and let me know your thoughts on the rear, to me there looks to be slight wear
to take sprocket off im guessing i have to bend back down the "safety" tabs or whatever they may be called to allow socket on ?
is it minimal wear & ok to continue to use?
Is it ok to reverse the sprocket then put back on so the wear then isnt a factor ?
or is it best to replace ?
budget build in mind also
If replacing is best im guessing my chain may also be beyond normal stretch limits (still to check) thus needing all 3 items. Is there kits you can get containing all three that may have different tooth counts and pitch ? i dont know alot about sprocket / chain setups but from reading a little; pitch is another thing i should look at (what are pitch benefits etc..holding chain on better?)....understand the addition and reduction of teeth aspect fine.
Thanks in advance for any advice
Pics below
Arvo all,
just had a closer look at rear sprocket, i am aware the front is dead and needs replacing.
Please have a look at pics below and let me know your thoughts on the rear, to me there looks to be slight wear
to take sprocket off im guessing i have to bend back down the "safety" tabs or whatever they may be called to allow socket on ?
is it minimal wear & ok to continue to use?
Is it ok to reverse the sprocket then put back on so the wear then isnt a factor ?
or is it best to replace ?
budget build in mind also
If replacing is best im guessing my chain may also be beyond normal stretch limits (still to check) thus needing all 3 items. Is there kits you can get containing all three that may have different tooth counts and pitch ? i dont know alot about sprocket / chain setups but from reading a little; pitch is another thing i should look at (what are pitch benefits etc..holding chain on better?)....understand the addition and reduction of teeth aspect fine.
Thanks in advance for any advice
Pics below
VonYinzer
Over 10,000 Posts
If you replace one sprocket, replace the other. Not always needed, but in this case do it. Itll eat your chain (which should be replaced also) up if not.
And yes, bend those tabs down and the bolts will spin out. You can usually find replcements for those holders as well. You'll probobly break a couple.
And yes, bend those tabs down and the bolts will spin out. You can usually find replcements for those holders as well. You'll probobly break a couple.
jaderd
Been Around the Block
Hi all quick update, have ordered some more Parts n hopefully win others on eBay, some required and others for both aesthetics and practicality. Quick question I know jack all about electric systems, I found a little 6v Ni-cd battery pack in an old remote control car. Could that work to test out my wiring system rather then setting up n charging the new lead acid one I have ?, could it work overall aswell instead of lead acid ? I'm guessing there must be something with amps etc that means this can't work as it seems too simple lol
I don't see the amps on that battery, but if you can use that battery to test the system, why not use it permanently?
But the short answer to you question is yes, you likely can use it to test your system assuming the amps are similar and the battery is charged. I would not recommend using the starter--if the bike even has one.
--Chris
But the short answer to you question is yes, you likely can use it to test your system assuming the amps are similar and the battery is charged. I would not recommend using the starter--if the bike even has one.
--Chris
jaderd
Been Around the Block
Thanks for replies guys,
my bike has a 6 volt system, not sure ill bother testing wires, was getting ahead of myself in little details like indicators i would like when i have so much cleaning and polishing / painting that really needs to be done.
info from ppl and net has lead me to believe that 12 V indicators can be used not a problem as long as they are of an average size that you can swap bulbs over to a 6 V bulb. after hunting ebay etc i found some i live that are classified as mini indicators and from the pics on ebay it appears a standard 6 volt bulb should fit in, the case is 60mm X 47mm, so i snapped them up $25 inlc postage so pretty cheap. Its the tiny 12v indicators that you generally cannot interchange as the bulb is so small and no 6v bulbs are generally small enough....so fingers crossed.
also the 1wire, 2 wire and 3 wire aspects got me a bit stuck until i read that
1 wire = 1 wire signal, ground via bolt
2 wire = 1 wire signal, 1 wire ground and generally bolt grounds also
3 wire = 1 wire signal, 1 wire ground and 1 wire marker (i dunno what marker is)
these are two wire so should be ok.....current ones on bike are 1 wire rear, although the fronts do have two wire and seem to go back to a major ground from looking at the wiring diagram.
list of whats i have bought / on way soon
Steering Stem dust shield on way then i can properly put front end together...need some grease too
Petcock filter, current one crappy
7" mesh headlight guards, one for front to slip over headlight and mount on front hole of headlight bracket (headlight on middle hole)
spare one im going to experiment cutting it up and bending for a rear tail light cover
NOS speedo / tacho covers, slip on top has a slight lip on then stops glare i guess and other debris...more just for looks / wank factor
Indicators - basic style, i didnt want complete round....bit more current era look, will sit on 3rd hole of headlight brackets, closest to bike -$25
Honda CRF 450 handle bar guards - ebay $26.....shoulf fit fine, to paint black
How it sits currently, back in garage so can fiddle with it easier, made some space, fitted a few parts just mocked up to keep me inspired, liking how it looks, headlight needs to come up a little. Bought some digital vernier calipers the other day to make measuring things easier come putting things back together and testing chain slack etc.....just need a 1/2" drive torque wrench and i have most tools i need then.
Thanks again for input from ppl all the time, makes life easier and keeps me inspired
my bike has a 6 volt system, not sure ill bother testing wires, was getting ahead of myself in little details like indicators i would like when i have so much cleaning and polishing / painting that really needs to be done.
info from ppl and net has lead me to believe that 12 V indicators can be used not a problem as long as they are of an average size that you can swap bulbs over to a 6 V bulb. after hunting ebay etc i found some i live that are classified as mini indicators and from the pics on ebay it appears a standard 6 volt bulb should fit in, the case is 60mm X 47mm, so i snapped them up $25 inlc postage so pretty cheap. Its the tiny 12v indicators that you generally cannot interchange as the bulb is so small and no 6v bulbs are generally small enough....so fingers crossed.
also the 1wire, 2 wire and 3 wire aspects got me a bit stuck until i read that
1 wire = 1 wire signal, ground via bolt
2 wire = 1 wire signal, 1 wire ground and generally bolt grounds also
3 wire = 1 wire signal, 1 wire ground and 1 wire marker (i dunno what marker is)
these are two wire so should be ok.....current ones on bike are 1 wire rear, although the fronts do have two wire and seem to go back to a major ground from looking at the wiring diagram.
list of whats i have bought / on way soon
Steering Stem dust shield on way then i can properly put front end together...need some grease too
Petcock filter, current one crappy
7" mesh headlight guards, one for front to slip over headlight and mount on front hole of headlight bracket (headlight on middle hole)
spare one im going to experiment cutting it up and bending for a rear tail light cover
NOS speedo / tacho covers, slip on top has a slight lip on then stops glare i guess and other debris...more just for looks / wank factor
Indicators - basic style, i didnt want complete round....bit more current era look, will sit on 3rd hole of headlight brackets, closest to bike -$25
Honda CRF 450 handle bar guards - ebay $26.....shoulf fit fine, to paint black
How it sits currently, back in garage so can fiddle with it easier, made some space, fitted a few parts just mocked up to keep me inspired, liking how it looks, headlight needs to come up a little. Bought some digital vernier calipers the other day to make measuring things easier come putting things back together and testing chain slack etc.....just need a 1/2" drive torque wrench and i have most tools i need then.
Thanks again for input from ppl all the time, makes life easier and keeps me inspired
