KLR You Experienced? I am now...

Re: KLR You Experienced? Err, kinda not really.

No progress on the carb sadly, but did sort out the exhaust leak with the help of a well positioned Granville Island Pale Ale can to shim the gap and some hi-temp silicon gasket.

Got the badges finished up and bolted into place -

GiEi8PR.jpg


0g2mpRn.jpg


Once the weather clears up - hopefully later this week - me and a mechanically minded mate are gonna get the carb dialled in. Then El Verdito should pretty much be open for business


Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON
 
Re: KLR You Experienced? Err, kinda not really.

that badge turned out nice
 
Re: KLR You Experienced? Err, kinda not really.

You're really classing up that old KLR, looks great Jim.
 
Re: KLR You Experienced? Err, kinda not really.

Looks good jimbo. Im ready to not be able to see that decal for all the mud caked on it here soon!
 
Re: KLR You Experienced? Err, kinda not really.

Thanks a lot gents, really appreciate the good vibes. Now that the exhaust leak is sorted, really hoping to get to the slightly more pressing matter of the carb, maybe this eve if the stars align.
 
Re: KLR You Experienced? Err, kinda not really.

Gents (and any gals out there if there are any and we hope there are) ok, carb time.

Thanks for bearing with me - those that followed along the CB750 will be familiar with my tsunami of questions. Fired up the bike last night to see what gives - weather has done to shit again so right now I'm trying to get everything ready for when things clear up. It's idling really, really rough. From my understanding I need to get a baseline - by that do you mean I need to get the idle right first? I know a rough idle can be caused by a vacuum leak (like a tear in the rubber boot or poor fitment of the carb body to the airbox/cylinder) but I'm sure those parameters are in good shape. What would be the next step into dialling the idle in? I've played with the big exterior bolt which adjusts the idle (well, it adjusts the throttle cables which in turn adjusts the idle) but with no real success.

Ask me anything you need to know to get a better idea of what's going on, and I'll do my best to answer. Pretty sure getting the idle right is a good place to start on when trying to get the carb dialled in.
 
KLR You Experienced? Err, kinda not really.

The Jimbonaut said:
Gents (and any gals out there if there are any and we hope there are) ok, carb time.

Thanks for bearing with me - those that followed along the CB750 will be familiar with my tsunami of questions. Fired up the bike last night to see what gives - weather has done to shit again so right now I'm trying to get everything ready for when things clear up. It's idling really, really rough. From my understanding I need to get a baseline - by that do you mean I need to get the idle right first? I know a rough idle can be caused by a vacuum leak (like a tear in the rubber boot or poor fitment of the carb body to the airbox/cylinder) but I'm sure those parameters are in good shape. What would be the next step into dialling the idle in? I've played with the big exterior bolt which adjusts the idle (well, it adjusts the throttle cables which in turn adjusts the idle) but with no real success.

Ask me anything you need to know to get a better idea of what's going on, and I'll do my best to answer. Pretty sure getting the idle right is a good place to start on when trying to get the carb dialled in.
Click to expand...

I usually start with full throttle.
Changing the main jet will affect all the other throttle positions to an extent and the main jet is the only way to change the ratio at wide open.

When you have full throttle worked out then you can worry about your mid range with the needles and needle jets. Finally when all that is taken care of, worry about the idle.

If you shoot some starter fluid around the boots you can listen for an air leak and rule that out real easy.
If it runs better with the choke/enricher on then she’s lean.
 
Re: KLR You Experienced? Err, kinda not really.

Get the bike running to operating temp- at least 10 minutes. Once it's hot, turn the idle screw to the lowest setting it will go without stalling. That's usually 700 - 800 rpm. Turn the air mix screw in until the idle drops, then out until it drops again, then turn the screw halfway between those points. Then set your idle where you want it. On my airheads, because of their charging system, I tend to set idle higher (1100 - 1200). Most of my thumpers idle around 1k. You should be no less than one turn and no more than three turns on the fuel/air mix if the idle jet is right. Once your idle is set, then mark your throttle into 4 quarters and see where it's messing up. This is a good general guide to help you find the tune...

pilot_jet_intro.gif
 
Re: KLR You Experienced? Err, kinda not really.

What irk said. You have 2 things that control idle. The knob thay opens the butterfly and the mixture screw which either adds more or less air as it in turned or fuel. The bike being fully warmed up is very important too. Changing idle on a cold engine will just be way off again when warm. What Farner said is true too, starting at full throttle runs and getring the main jet right is the easiest one. The in between setting are a little harder but you'll get them.
 
Re: KLR You Experienced? Err, kinda not really.

Tidy, thanks gents, really helpful in getting this job off and running. The air mix screw - is that the pilot (idle) mixture screw?
 
Re: KLR You Experienced? Err, kinda not really.

Yep. Im not sure what kind of pilot you have. They control the pilot/idle circuit, some increase or decrease the air in circuit whike others increase or decrease fuel. Whichever you have the circuit has a fixed amount of one whike the screw changes the other to change air fuel mix with throttle 99% closed
 
Re: KLR You Experienced? Err, kinda not really.

Excellent, I'm getting somewhere. I'm gonna need one of these whatnots to get to the pilot screw, right?

cNlVdWO.jpg
 
Re: KLR You Experienced? Err, kinda not really.

irk miller said:
You should be no less than one turn and no more than three turns on the fuel/air mix if the idle jet is right.
Click to expand...

Irk, the idle jet - is that the same as the idle screw? Or is the idle jet the same thing as the pilot jet?
 
Re: KLR You Experienced? Err, kinda not really.

1732-030518143455.gif


This is the carb Pilot is on bottom 16014. Its likely a flat head and carefuk screwing it in you can break it if you over tighten it. You won't need the fancy screw driver
 
Re: KLR You Experienced? Err, kinda not really.

also the description calls it pilot air screw so it increases or decreases air.

https://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/2000-kawasaki-klr650-kl650a/o/m149578#sch65997
 
Re: KLR You Experienced? Err, kinda not really.

Which would suggest that three or more turns out and the idle jet is too rich, or less than one turn in and the idle jet is too lean. Anywhere in-between and your idle jet is good.
 
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