Montreal Manchild with an '81 Honda CB750K

Ok, that helps. All the (-) wires go to the green Honda ground, the (+) wires go to the corresponding idiot light, etc wires in your harness. My digital gauge had a common ground as it makes less work connecting.
 
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Is this the type you got? I pulled that from DCC site
 
So there are 5 lights and looks like 10 wires. all the (-) can be twisted together and connected to the harness ground, the others go to the (+) wires from the harness which for example high beam will be blue. blinkers will be either orange white or solid orange can't remember which is wink and which is running etc. all those are listed on the wiring diagram.
 
Also, since you have only one winker indicator both left and right Baby blue/orange or baby blue white/orange white from the harness (+) go to the same wire on the gauge.
 
Dude that really helps a lot, thanks man - again.

Here's the femal blocky connector type thing on the harness that the OEM gauge cluster connects into -



(ignore the blue wires I've shoved in there). So I need to find the OEM green wire (ground, right?) that goes into that connector and hook up all the (-) wires from the new gauges into the correct little female?


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Ok progress, somewhat...

I've got the wiring to the point where the dials are now backlit when I turn the ignition, but all the idiot lights are on solidly. Wondering if the idiot lights go out once the engine is actually started? Or have I wired it up wrong?


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When I hook up the OEM gauge cluster the only solid lights are the backlight, oil light and neutral. Not high beam and not indicator


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To expand a little on what I did - twisted all the negative wires together (5 from the speedo and one from the tach) and stuck them into the female connector for the green wire on the OEM gauge connector. Then did the same for each of the positive wires - each one into its corresponding female connector on the OEM socket block thing


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My bad, please ignore last couple of posts. Turns out the idiot lights weren't all on it just looked like they were because of the backlight. Hi beam idiot light working fine, neutral not so much. Will check the neutral wire connection behind the oil reservoir cover and make sure it's connected (I'm sure it is)

First signs of life for months...




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No, neutral light not coming on. It does on the OEM cluster when I plug that in though


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Plug the neutral light on the cluster into a wire that you know works (hi beam) so you can rule out whether the bulb is faulty.
 
Found this in another thread -

"Green Green/Black. Neutral

Red Red/Black oil

These first two need to be reversed in order to work with Ground switches."

What in the world is a ground switch!?




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Neutral switch is a ground switch - IE: the wire doesn't provide power when the switch is engaged, but grounds to the engine. So, you need +ve already at the bulb so the neutral switch can ground it to complete the circuit. Same with most oil switches.
 
Thanks man, I'm sorry but I just don't get it. Any idea how I do the ground switch? What wire goes where?

Sorry man, this shit is way over my head


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Take a hot wire (probably black if Honda didn't change shit in the 80s) and plug it into the hot lead on the LED (probably red). Then take the neutral switch wire (maybe baby blue and red?), assuming it's like most and has just one wire from the switch, and plug it into the LED neg lead (probably black).
 
Fuck. Feel like I've slipped into a parallel universe where everyone knows what they're talking about except me.

Hot = positive, right?


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Dude do you mean take a positive wire from the new gauge and plug it into a positive socket on the OEM gauge socket? I know that's totally not what you wrote, but I can't plug anything into the led as it's part of the new gauge. The new gauges have 10 wires coming out of them, 5 + and 5 -


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