Montreal Manchild with an '81 Honda CB750K

irk miller said:
I was quoting Nick's comment, which he refers to the manual. The manual is covering stock bearings, which are not sealed bearings.
Click to expand...

Ok carry on, my bad. Yes the open stock bearings need all that grease where the sealed wouldn't. That being said if you pack the hub with grease it won't harm the sealed bearing either.
 
Oh no, it won't. You probably should. Pretty sure the wheel bearings on my trailer are sealed and I still pack them full of grease too.
 
irk miller said:
I was quoting Nick's comment, which he refers to the manual. The manual is covering stock bearings, which are not sealed bearings.
Click to expand...

Ahh that's right. Makes sense now.
 
The Jimbonaut said:
Hey Nick Ol' Eye, just checked out your Luna build thread, man that's a sweet looking ride, kudos on a great job mate. Love the frame colour - I've been going backwards and forwards with a coloured frame (instead of black) on mine but just can't decide. I love this colour from House of Kolor -

http://www.houseofkolor.com/kolors/detail/index.html?id=HOK0923-00&ref=kolors

and it's available in a rattle can too so I might have a crack at painting it myself. Your bike has just put another tick in the Colour Frame box =)
Click to expand...


Thanks man. I used a HOK epoxy primer on the 360, it's good stuff. The frame paint was from automotivetouchup.com - it's a factory color from a Toyota Venza, they make premixed quarts for HVLP or rattle cans. The green looks like a good color, i like subtle colors for a frame. What color are you going to go with for the tank?
 
Got my colours mixed up (easily done with HOK, they've got plenty)...this is the colour I've got in mind for the frame -

http://www.houseofkolor.com/kolors/detail/index.html?id=HOK0326-00&ref=kolors

The tank's gonna be wire wool'd bare metal and clear coated. Eventually...I'm moving slow and steady as molasses in January


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So today I removed the exhaust and saw this -



- on the front of the frame. Is that cut supposed to be there? Looks a bit iffy


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Look at a parts fiche for the frame. Some have removable sections to get the motor out. It will show
 
Good call, I'll do that.

I'm rebuilding the rear wheel with the new bearings - according to Clymers, once I've installed the right-hand bearing and retainer I then install the distance collar followed by the left hand bearing and retainer.

Thing is, the inside of the hub is pretty roomy - where exactly do I put the distance collar? It doesn't seem to sit anywhere in particular. If I just drop it in there, then install the left hand bearing and retainer, how can I be sure the distance collar is sitting where it needs to be so that the axle passes through it?


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Yep. That section is removable.

h01220114.gif
 
And you're totally right about lookin at the parts fiche - I just did and the cut is supposed to be there


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The Jimbonaut said:
Good call, I'll do that.

I'm rebuilding the rear wheel with the new bearings - according to Clymers, once I've installed the right-hand bearing and retainer I then install the distance collar followed by the left hand bearing and retainer.

Thing is, the inside of the hub is pretty roomy - where exactly do I put the distance collar? It doesn't seem to sit anywhere in particular. If I just drop it in there, then install the left hand bearing and retainer, how can I be sure the distance collar is sitting where it needs to be so that the axle passes through it?
Click to expand...


When you drive the 2nd bearing in the centre will touch the spacer (distance collar). It should have enough pressure on it to keep the spacer aligned. Once you have both bearings in you can align the spacer with a large screwdriver or slide the axle through.
 
If that's the way to do it, that's what I'll try. What if the spacer is on the piss inside the hub though, i.e. sitting in there on an angle? Driving in the second bearing with the spacer not sitting straight could just jam the whole process up, no?
 
Gotcha.

Next question (man, I've got a few - these wheel bearings have be a bit of a challenge)...the bearing kit I got also came with a plastic seal for the larger sprocket bearing. The old one sat inside the aluminium bearing retainer - I got that one out but I'm having a helluva time getting the new one in -



I'm worried if I hit the thing any harder with the rubber mallet I'm gonna break it, but it seems to be jammed in there tighter than a tick and I can't get it to seat all the way?
 
Backwards y'say, well sheeeete. That was the same way the old one came out - the old one was in the wrong way round as well then? So I should take it out and then put it in the other way round?

The old seal that I removed was definitely in the retainer the same way.
 
Which side faces towards the hub? The flat side of the seal should be facing "out" from the bearings (IE: the spring side facing in)
 
Sorry for sounding dim Hillsy - should the flat side of the plastic seal be flush against the bearing or flush against the inside of the aluminium retaining ring? As it stands (in the photo I posted) the flat side of the seal is facing the inside of the retaining ring.


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