Montreal Manchild with an '81 Honda CB750K

irk miller said:
Spring side = oil side

This is always the rule.

Man I feel stupid right now. I still don't get it - which is the oil side? What does the oil side even mean?
 
The Jimbonaut said:
Man I feel stupid right now. I still don't get it - which is the oil side? What does the oil side even mean?
Ha. Sorry. Inside is oil side. You'll find those type seals in your motor and your forks too. It's like saying righty tighty lefty loosey.
 
Oil side. Inside. Got it. So, if spring side is oil side, that means the spring side is facing the bearing, right? Like it is in the photo?


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Sorry man I'm just confused because Hillsy said I had it the wrong way round.

If I haven't, my original question still stumps me - how in the heck do I seat it properly in the retaining ring?

So. Many. Questions.


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According to this, the oil seal goes outside the bearing of the sprocket carrier / cush drive, not outside the wheel bearing retainer:


honda-cb750k-1981-b-four-england-rear-wheel_bigma000091f12-3_8817.gif



#17 is the oil seal and #18 is a D ring. #3 and 4 are both retainers.
 
Hillsy I'm sorry mate but you're really twisting my melon

I'm really new to all this. I don't have the comstar wheel by the way, I have spoked.

Just wish I had a video of the assembly, find they really help

All I know is the plastic seal I'm trying to get in the aluminium retainer is going in the same way as the old one I got out. Except I can't get it in

Fuuuuuuuuuuck


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You're doing it right. They can be a bitch to get in. It helps to put the seal in the freezer to get it to shrink, so it slides in better. Basically, there is a metal core to the seal and that seal has to pop into place. You're seated right at the point it's about to pop in. Wait until you have to do the fork seals. They will sometimes stick to the sides of the inner fork lower and you'll swear it's all one part.
 
"Oil side" means the side that you want to keep dust and debris out of. Think of it as the "clean" side. So the "oil side" of the hub is the inside where the bearings are, since you want to seal shit out. The "oil side" on the clutch pushrod oil seal is the inside of the crankcase, for instance.

So you have it on there the right way, the spring is facing the inside of the hub.
 
The Jimbonaut said:
So just whack that son of a whore until it seats?


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Yes. Nice and square. If you have a press or a vice and something like boards to cover the entire seal then crank it in, that's better.
 
The Jimbonaut said:
So just whack that son of a whore until it seats?

Screw it into the hub before you try and seat it. The less movement, the better. There is also a distinctive sound/feel when a seal or bearing comes to a stop, once you do a few oil seals you'll get a feel for it.

I always use a piece of PVC or a big socket that fits and a nice heavy 2 lb hammer.
 
Cheers fellas, good to know I'm on the right track. Goddam thing, it's a bitch to seat. But I probably would have had an aneurism if I'd got it in backwards

When Rhonda gets her rubber on the road I'm buying the beers


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If I'm reading your thread correctly you're using sealed bearings so this oil seal is kinda moot.


They are not designed to be drifted in from the "spring" side, so you'll probably fubar the seal if you smack it on that side.....but see above because it probably don't matter ;)
 
But if I've got the seal in the right way round Hillsy then what other way can I smack it? Not trying to second guess you my man, just trying to understand


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You can put it in the other way round because it doesn't really matter now you are running sealed bearings. Then you can drift it all the way in without damaging it.


Or leave it out.
 
Thanks mate, I hear you. Crazy how a piece of plastic has taken over my entire evening! Probably not for the last time either


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The Jimbonaut said:
Thanks mate, I hear you. Crazy how a piece of plastic has taken over my entire evening! Probably not for the last time either


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Nope. Make sure the fridge is always full.
 
Keep at it Jimbo; you're doing a fine job, especially considering you're fairly new to the mechanical arts!

Doing bearing without a press sucks. I've had luck in the past using the old bearing (because it's garbage anyway, and the same size as the outer ring!) to protect the new bearing from damage. Freeze the new bearing as mentioned and if you don't have a press, then use the old bearings and draw it together with a long, heavy bolt. The bolt also adds the benefit of keeping the spacer aligned for you. If you don't have a big enough bolt, then you can whack it. Dead blow mallet on a block of wood (maple or oak: softwoods tend to shatter and make a mess).
 
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