MotoFiaccone Bob--Feb 2011 update
- Thread starter chrisf
- Start date
CresentSon
Over 1,000 Posts
Re: MotoFiaccone Bob--Oct 2010 update
You can pick up bends by the pound or the sq ft. You might be able to pick up a cast off of sufficient size. Just depends on what is in stock. It is the only place I have found in the area that isn't wholesale bulk.
*edit* Ask about a 'single shoulder'. On the small end they run 2' x 2'. Probably right in the $30-$40 range, in stock.
motofiaccone said:
You can pick up bends by the pound or the sq ft. You might be able to pick up a cast off of sufficient size. Just depends on what is in stock. It is the only place I have found in the area that isn't wholesale bulk.
*edit* Ask about a 'single shoulder'. On the small end they run 2' x 2'. Probably right in the $30-$40 range, in stock.
Hot Rod Troy
Coast to Coast
Re: MotoFiaccone Bob--Oct 2010 update
Lookin' very cool, man.
Lookin' very cool, man.
Re: MotoFiaccone Bob--Oct 2010 update
OK, well, the spray adhesive did not work as well as I'd liked, so I used Gorilla Glue. It worked a charm, but I had to run a drill though each of my rivet holes where the PU foam came out. Here's the seat pad sanded to shape:
Here it is on the bike.
Then I wrapped it in leather. I had branded the lines into the seat prior, which I need to go back and redo.
I used clecos to hold everything in place.
With the exception of a few trouble spots, I think it came out pretty well. I'll rebrand it tomorrow and do the final riveting. Then, I'll throw it out in the UV to darken it a bit. We have some snow on the way, and that should age it nicely as well. This weekend, I'll seal it an give it a light wax.
--Thanks, Chris
OK, well, the spray adhesive did not work as well as I'd liked, so I used Gorilla Glue. It worked a charm, but I had to run a drill though each of my rivet holes where the PU foam came out. Here's the seat pad sanded to shape:
Here it is on the bike.
Then I wrapped it in leather. I had branded the lines into the seat prior, which I need to go back and redo.
I used clecos to hold everything in place.
With the exception of a few trouble spots, I think it came out pretty well. I'll rebrand it tomorrow and do the final riveting. Then, I'll throw it out in the UV to darken it a bit. We have some snow on the way, and that should age it nicely as well. This weekend, I'll seal it an give it a light wax.
--Thanks, Chris
Re: MotoFiaccone Bob--Oct 2010 update
Looking at the pictures, I'm a bit dissatisfied with the branding. Hopefully the rebrand comes out better and the aging process knocks down the color differential. And sorry for the massive pics.
Here is the breakdown for spend:
Seat pan: free (but under $10 in materials if you purchased it)
Pad: $5 at Wal-Mart in the camping section
Gorilla Glue: $7
Leather: $30
Rivets:$3
Leather sealer $10
Bolts: $2
Total spend: $57
Tools used:
Jig saw
Grinder with very used flap disk
Drill
Belt sander (nicety)
Welder (nicety)
Clecos (nicety)
Thanks to Cresent who came through with the leather advice.
--Thanks, Chris
Looking at the pictures, I'm a bit dissatisfied with the branding. Hopefully the rebrand comes out better and the aging process knocks down the color differential. And sorry for the massive pics.
Here is the breakdown for spend:
Seat pan: free (but under $10 in materials if you purchased it)
Pad: $5 at Wal-Mart in the camping section
Gorilla Glue: $7
Leather: $30
Rivets:$3
Leather sealer $10
Bolts: $2
Total spend: $57
Tools used:
Jig saw
Grinder with very used flap disk
Drill
Belt sander (nicety)
Welder (nicety)
Clecos (nicety)
Thanks to Cresent who came through with the leather advice.
--Thanks, Chris
CresentSon
Over 1,000 Posts
Re: MotoFiaccone Bob--Oct 2010 update
Looks great from my pov. What are you using to brand. I tend to prefer wire and a torch over a woodburning tool. Make sure the wire is thinner than the desired line weight, bend it in a dine sized loop, and heat it to just shy of cherry. With the higher heat it takes minimal force, just kiss the surface. You can also control the line much eaiser.
Looks great from my pov. What are you using to brand. I tend to prefer wire and a torch over a woodburning tool. Make sure the wire is thinner than the desired line weight, bend it in a dine sized loop, and heat it to just shy of cherry. With the higher heat it takes minimal force, just kiss the surface. You can also control the line much eaiser.
Re: MotoFiaccone Bob--Oct 2010 update
Here you go gents. This is the bottom of the finished seat
Installed. You can see some lumps around the front and rear curved section--not too happy about that.
Sorry about the rotation, but you get the idea. You can see a majority of the lumps there.
And a crap photo of the top.
Here you go gents. This is the bottom of the finished seat
Installed. You can see some lumps around the front and rear curved section--not too happy about that.
Sorry about the rotation, but you get the idea. You can see a majority of the lumps there.
And a crap photo of the top.
Re: MotoFiaccone Bob--Oct 2010 update
Overall, it's not too bad for my first go at working with tooled leather. The branding marks are not perfect, but I did try Crecent's method of heating up some stainless TIG wire and using that; it didn't work. So I went over the lines with the branding iron again.
I'm hoping it will age well. We're expecting a winter mix tonight, so I'm leaving the seat outside to age for a few days. Then, I'll seal it and give her a little wax. It should end up looking handmade, which is the look I'm after. It's not perfect for sure. If the lumps and whatnot start to bother me, I can always recover it really cheaply and easily.
Thanks for looking.
--Chris
Overall, it's not too bad for my first go at working with tooled leather. The branding marks are not perfect, but I did try Crecent's method of heating up some stainless TIG wire and using that; it didn't work. So I went over the lines with the branding iron again.
I'm hoping it will age well. We're expecting a winter mix tonight, so I'm leaving the seat outside to age for a few days. Then, I'll seal it and give her a little wax. It should end up looking handmade, which is the look I'm after. It's not perfect for sure. If the lumps and whatnot start to bother me, I can always recover it really cheaply and easily.
Thanks for looking.
--Chris
What do I do: get it moist and apply a *little* heat and mush it down with my thumb?Re: MotoFiaccone Bob--Oct 2010 update
iron will not work bud, has to be a steamer... the moisture and the hot air will allow the leather to move, then you just pull it back and beat it out with your hand it will smooth that out in no time... learned the trick from Ish at West coast customs... and have to say it works great!!!
iron will not work bud, has to be a steamer... the moisture and the hot air will allow the leather to move, then you just pull it back and beat it out with your hand it will smooth that out in no time... learned the trick from Ish at West coast customs... and have to say it works great!!!
dakine_surf
"Stay Thirsty my Friends"
Re: MotoFiaccone Bob--Oct 2010 update
Chris, Does your Iron have a steamer mode? Most irons nowadays have a button you can press and it will puff out steam... i did this on a seat and it worked wonders.
-Micah
Chris, Does your Iron have a steamer mode? Most irons nowadays have a button you can press and it will puff out steam... i did this on a seat and it worked wonders.
-Micah
Re: MotoFiaccone Bob--Oct 2010 update
You know, I don't spend much time in the bob and chop section, so I end up missing a lot of progress on the builds here. I'll have to remedy that because I like where this is heading. Really neat frame work...and I'm interested to see how that seat turns out. I've been kicking around the idea of something similar on my next build (whatever it will be). Nice work Chris.
You know, I don't spend much time in the bob and chop section, so I end up missing a lot of progress on the builds here. I'll have to remedy that because I like where this is heading. Really neat frame work...and I'm interested to see how that seat turns out. I've been kicking around the idea of something similar on my next build (whatever it will be). Nice work Chris.
Re: MotoFiaccone Bob--Oct 2010 update
A shitload of Ti tube ordered for the project. This will either have the prettiest pipes on this board or the shittiest. I'm hoping for the former. TBH, these will be way over the top for a 80's dirtbike, but I love welding Ti. And I've always wanted to do an exhaust out of it.
--Thanks, Chris
PS the iron does have a steamer mode, but it didn't work; I tried. I'll keep at it.
A shitload of Ti tube ordered for the project. This will either have the prettiest pipes on this board or the shittiest. I'm hoping for the former. TBH, these will be way over the top for a 80's dirtbike, but I love welding Ti. And I've always wanted to do an exhaust out of it.
--Thanks, Chris
PS the iron does have a steamer mode, but it didn't work; I tried. I'll keep at it.
Swagger
Putting boot to ass since 1967!
Re: MotoFiaccone Bob--Oct 2010 update
You should all but boil that leather to get it to behave like you want.
I made a bunch of boiled leather armor several years ago and it forms up nicely.
Once it ls thoroughly soaked and heated up even thick saddle leather works like velvet.
Just responded to your emails.....
You should all but boil that leather to get it to behave like you want.
I made a bunch of boiled leather armor several years ago and it forms up nicely.
Once it ls thoroughly soaked and heated up even thick saddle leather works like velvet.
Just responded to your emails.....
