new cafe build cb450

Thanks flug and son for the insights. Yeah def looks like there would be carb clearance issues. Ill have to wait and see what this rear shock is gonna be lengthwise, ill post some pics when it comes in. I see what you mean flug about the tail section putting pressure on the downtube.. If it was thick enough, stock is 1/8" I believe, maybe beefing it up a little more for added support. I also have a good friend who is an engineer who's gonna stop by and take a look. My dad was also an aeronautical engineer so he has some good input always as well.
 
Don't think I'd like to take out the middle downtube, but I made a couple adjustments and seeing how the curved down tubes would looks. What do you guys think?
 

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It's been done before, so you're not doing something that's dangerous, per se. The Norton Featherbed frames have that kind of look, but there are better functional choices. If the downtube isn't causing a problem with the engine fit, you'll probably be better off with it still there. In either case, you'll probably want some cross braces (side-to-side) between those curved sections to help keep the frame from twisting as much.

Here's a Featherbed frame, for comparison:

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Flugtechnik said:
................ Again I don't like what Teazer has drawn because he as the tail load punching sideways into the downtube without any backup. It can work if the down tube is big enough.

If you lose the stock downtube, you lose an engine mount. ..............
Obviously you replace the engine mount!
The two rear tubes angled as I showed them simply replace the old rear downtube and triangulate the back end in 3 dimensions.

"tail load punching into the downtube" What does that mean? The only vertical load behind the downtubes is the rider's weight - compounded by speed of course. Thin wall 1/2" tube is strong enough for that load.

The issue is three dimensional stiffness from the swingarm to the steering head. The best way would be to run tubes straight from the swingarm to the steering head but the motor gets in the way.

For ideas, check out Tony Foale's book and look at Metisse, Seeley, Dresda and Drixton frames for ideas just as a place to start. Curved tubes are never as good as straight ones unless you want to design in some flex. If you do curve tubes, make the radius as large as practical.
 
Just messing with ideas and a mocked up seat pan... Thoughts? Maybe ill just leave it like this.. Was funny my old man walked into the shop and saw what I was doing and jokingly said "don't think that will hold your big ass"
 

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teazer said:
Obviously you replace the engine mount!

With what? There wouldn't be anything at the centerline to attach it to.



teazer said:
"tail load punching into the downtube" What does that mean? The only vertical load behind the downtubes is the rider's weight - compounded by speed of course. Thin wall 1/2" tube is strong enough for that load.

I already explained what I meant. And I call bullshit on the 1/2" tubing. These calculations are admittedly pretty rough but 1/2" tubing wouldn't just bend, it would fail.

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As I stated before, you can make it work if the downtubes are stout enough, but then you are carrying weight you don't need just to make it look a certain way. Sonrier is right, triangles are the most efficient structures when their corners coincide.

teazer said:
For ideas, check out Tony Foale's book and look at Metisse, Seeley, Dresda and Drixton frames for ideas just as a place to start. Curved tubes are never as good as straight ones unless you want to design in some flex. If you do curve tubes, make the radius as large as practical.

I completely agree with Teazer here. If you want to start messing around with your frame then doing some homework would be great.......instead of listening to some guys bicker on a forum. ;)
 
Well that got real. Real quick. Lol man thanks flugs for going above and beyond here with the calculations and the measurements. Do you agree with the mocked up frame? The curved bend and then a well placed triangular shaped support? Along with some cross member support as well to add to the frame rigidity, and to minimalize the twisting? I was thinking I would run 1"O.D. Tubing for the down tubes for sure. I'm not overly concerned with some added weight, hell my weight fluctuates 10-15 lbs depending on the season! Lol
 
Teazer, I don't know you and don't know anything about you. People I respect respect you which means a lot. I hope you take my disagreement with the respect intended. I was merely backing up my statements and of course calling you out on your offhand remark.

MJ, Teazer probably has 100X more experience with motorcycle frames than me. Whatever you do, make it stout and it will work. Setting up your shock attachment is the most important part.


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flug, teazer, thank you both for your help with this build. sometimes i look for answers here and turn up with nothing, both of you are obviously knowledgeable guys and i really appreciate all your words. i will make sure everything i do is rigid and reinforced before going any further with the build. cheers!
 
Flug,
No worries mate. I appreciate your concern and input and have zero issues with you working through the numbers to make a point. Let me address the issues raised, if I may.

The way I drew the frame tubes it would be easy to insert a cross tube to take the upper engine mount.

I'm not trying to design his frame - just to throw some ideas out for him (and you) to think about.

Good to see you digging out the Strength of Materials. The calculations are probably OK and I'm not planning on checking them.

The 1/2" comment applied to the strut in compression! But in reality it would come pretty close for the forces you calculated for the downtubes. The frame wouldn't be very strong in terms of the suspension and cornering loads though. :) At 90,000 PSi Tensile, 4130 would get pretty close to holding up the seat...LOL

BTW, offhand remarks never need to be called out because they are just that. But I digress. No one would seriously suggest using 1/2 tube" for anything much other than a fairing or footrest mount. I'd use tube either the same size, or one size larger than the lower cradle and in a much thinner wall thickness. But maybe that's just me. I like frames that are light and rigid in the right directions.

Stout is not a term I use, but the frame needs to deflect a certain amount in certain directions. Too much is bad and so is too little. Yes, triangles are the strongest design and the trick is not in the amount of metal but in the shape of the design as I think you were pointing out.

Large diameter thin wall tubes beat thick wall small diameter tubes every day of the week.

Rob North made some nice frames in the early seventies for BSA/Triumph triples that had a huge curve at the rear - as did the Mk1 and Mk2 Seeley frames. Both were carefully boxed in/braced in critical areas to render the curve almost irrelevant to the shape.

Going back to that small tube again, how much force do you calculate would be required to bend a 1/2" tube to failure? Do you have access to stress analysis software by any chance? It would be very useful to see the stresses in living color. Dr Rob Tuluie did that with the Tularis. That could be why Renault recruited him as their Head of F1 R&D.

If you have access, try twisting the frame in different directions and check out the massive deflection with some frame shapes and small diameter tubes and then replace some of the tubes with larger diameter thin wall and see the differences.

This is all good mental exercise.
 
doing some homework and seeing some great work done by the named builders flug and teaze had mentioned, also saw a bike id like to build my rear tail section to look like.
 

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"The Price is Right" cafe build cb450

while im waiting for the wheels, clipons, and rear shock to come i got a little side tracked.. guy here in grand rapids had a 73 yamaha tx500 for sale, and i know having two projects at once is a big no no, but i couldnt resist. the guy told me he ran it but it needed carbs rebuilt, he ordered the wrong rebuild kit, got frustrated and was just sitting in the garage. looks like it needs the rebuild, and some wiring figured out, as well as the rear suspension, looks like he jerry rigged a lowering kit, tabs and re mounted the lower shocks.. that will definitely need to be fixed. got the whole bike for 150 bucks. steal in my book. motor has good compression as well
 

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if i decide to turn the yamaha into a project id like it to look something along a brat style bike like this.. pretty sweet.
 

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digging that exhaust flugs.. ok back to my bike for a minute.. quick update the bars i bought off craigslist from a girl who was selling her ex boyfriends box of parts in her garage came today.. lol woot woot 10 dollars. mocked up the front end quickly just to take a look. also just brought the frame over to a friends to have the rear down tubes welded in. should have it back in a couple days.
 

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doing some homework and research on the front wheel and how im going to run both front rotors, and im thinking about running a late 70's honda goldwing dual rotor hub, will most likely need adapters of course in order to use the gixxer rotors.. but once we make the adapters for the rotors, it would be a matter of a custom axle and spacers. thoughts anyone?
 
The Honda CB front hub has a 6 bolt, 60mm bore, 80mm PCD pattern on it which matches many modern brake rotors perfectly. I mounted one with a FZR1000 rotor in GSXR forks. Required a custom axle to match the Honda bearing options and a spacer for the rotor to align with the caliper.

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