New CL100 Owner

[iatethepeach]

I remembered to bring my feeler gauges to the cabin yesterday afternoon but forgot my multimeter (of course), so I had to borrow one of the turn signals when I set the timing. It was definitely advanced too far- thanks, grcamna5! I took the bike for a quick spin before it got dark and it runs very well.

So far I've only been doing the static method outlined in the shop manual. Is this OK?

 

[adventurco]

So far I've only been doing the static method outlined in the shop manual. Is this OK?

I've always just set it static, but a LOT of people say that's not enough and you have to use a strobe to get the timing spot on, I've just been putting off buying a strobe cuz tools are expensive.


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[grcamna5]

I've always just set it static, but a LOT of people say that's not enough and you have to use a strobe to get the timing spot on, I've just been putting off buying a strobe cuz tools are expensive.


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I like to use the stroboscopic timing light as it can test if your advancer is working correctly,but the static method will get you very close.

 

[iatethepeach]

OK, thanks for the tips.

This evening I took a nice long ride with some high speed runs. At low throttle/low RPM the motor pulls stronger than it did before yesterday's adjustment, but now it sometimes misses a bit flat-out at full throttle. If there's no junk in the float bowl I'll advance the ignition back a hair tomorrow.

 

[adventurco]

Some nice roads you got there. Is that PA? It looks like PA

 

[iatethepeach]

Yes, PA near Hawk Mountain. This bike loves winding country roads.

 

[grcamna5]

You should check the points,you might have a bit of junk or oil on them and it could be missing at high revs for that reason,unless the valves are tight,etc.,wouldn't hurt to check the plug for deposits/color. You could file/clean your points a little and finish setting/checking the advance/timing w/ an automotive,inductive timing light powered by a 12vt. battery,they rent them too.. These Honda CB100/125's run best w/ the timing right on the marks including the advance marks on the stator flywheel/rotor.

edit:The other thing I want to mention is that you should get a battery operated, self-powered static timing device(light or 'buzz box')if that's what you prefer and not use the bikes power to set the timing using a light w/ the key on.The problem is(I had to learn this after messing up a good coil)when you leave the key on for more than a half a minute w/o the engine running you risk over-heating the coil secondary windings and frying the coil.. Tell-tale signs of a fried coil are white wax leaking out of a crack in the coil outer casing.
That will also affect the coils performance at high speed.

 

[iatethepeach]

when you leave the key on for more than a half a minute w/o the engine running you risk over-heating the coil secondary windings and frying the coil.. Tell-tale signs of a fried coil are white wax leaking out of a crack in the coil outer casing. That will also affect the coils performance at high speed.

Whoops! I'll check it out next chance I get. Forgetting to bring the multimeter(/continuity tester) may have been more inconvenient than I thought. New coils are expensive.

You should check the points,you might have a bit of junk or oil on them and it could be missing at high revs for that reason,unless the valves are tight,etc.,wouldn't hurt to check the plug for deposits/color.

I didn't see significant deposits on the points when I set the gap, but I didn't do a close inspection. I'll take another look and also check the plug and valves.

 

[grcamna5]

I've used 600-800 grit sandpaper in small strips cut to size for filing the points contacts and then when finished I clean the contact surfaces w/ a fresh clean $1 bill as it's such good quality paper and won't leave any lint as it removes oil residue.

 

[iatethepeach]

Thanks, those are great tips. I'm adding sandpaper and a crisp banknote to the CL's toolkit today.

 

[iatethepeach]

I wonder if that's why I found a nail file in the XL's toolkit. Though after setting the gap on the CL, it seems like it'd be a bit thick. Maybe we used it on the plug or an electrical contact.

 

[grcamna5]

I wonder if that's why I found a nail file in the XL's toolkit. Though after setting the gap on the CL, it seems like it'd be a bit thick. Maybe we used it on the plug or an electrical contact.

The very fine sandpaper(800)is much better to use after 'blotting' the contacts w/ the dollar bill once(and then using the $ again after lightly sanding the contacts smooth to get the points very clean) before using the thin sandpaper doubled over;I would think the nail file is just a bit too thick to get an even match-up to both contacts as you're taking a little pressure off the spring while sliding it through.
I find when you use just light spring pressure the very fine sandpaper has a way of polishing the contacts for a nice finish.Do your points and condenser have many miles on them? it also doesn't hurt to run the 600 through first soaked w/ a bit of electrical contact cleaner(Electro-Motive,etc.) on it so it removes any hint of burned on points lube,etc. I usually put just a few small drops of light oil into the felt wick(after first removing it,washing it out if it's cruddy & let it dry before re-installation) at the base of the points plate to keep the fiber block of the points arm from wearing-out too quickly which necessitates re-setting the timing;I prefer the light oil on the points wick rather than heavy points grease myself..,less fling-off into the points.

 

[iatethepeach]

Thanks for the advice. I replaced the points and condenser when I started working on the bike last fall. Since then the bike's clocked 2000 miles. How long can I expect those components to last?

 

[grcamna5]

Thanks for the advice. I replaced the points and condenser when I started working on the bike last fall. Since then the bike's clocked 2000 miles. How long can I expect those components to last?

oh,good. They should last you a good,long while if they're stock Honda oem replacements which are the best quality(ND,etc.)but if they're cheap china-stuff then the pivot shaft on the points(or contact surfaces burn) would probably wear-out prematurely and no telling how long that will take.. just keep checking them by disconnecting the spring from the base and try pivoting the points fiber arm sideways to see if it's worn out yet.. when that shaft wears they bounce too much at high revs.

 

[iatethepeach]

I had some time to work on the bike yesterday afternoon. The fuel in the float bowl looked clear, but I don't know about the plug (D9EA). It's been in there a while. Maybe I should pick up a new one.

The points felt was very cruddy. Whoops- I didn't realize that thing came off the plate. I cleaned it, soaked it in Tri-flow, then squeezed out the excess and reinstalled it. Looks like new.

While I was in there I advanced the timing a tiny smidge, too. Soon I hope to set it with a strobe.

About how much play should there be on the points shaft? It's probably tough to tell from the animation, but do you think this is too much? I can upload the raw video to YouTube if you think it'd be any clearer.

I didn't see any cracks in the coil housing, but there was some clear goo around the front insulator. Is this what you were talking about? It looks ancient, but maybe it only recently escaped the insides of the thing.

I also adjusted the valves (years of working only on my boxer motor has made me soft- it's a tight squeeze in there). The exhaust felt a bit tight. I set both at .003".

I only had time for a short ride. Throttle response is markedly improved! It's nice and snappy now. I wasn't able to reproduce the high-RPM stutter, but I didn't get much time on the bike.

I still haven't cleaned the points contacts because my sandpaper collection has gone missing. I'm off to the hardware store to pick up a few sheets (and painting supplies for the XL) this morning!

 

[grcamna5]

The points pivot has a good amount of play in there.. Did you determine what brand they are ?
I would keep using the coil,check how strong/blue the spark at the plug(ground the plug to the head first)looks along w/ inspecting the outer case for anymore leakage periodically.I guess you already know I prefer oem stock parts best for their high quality even though they cost more initially.
I prefer about 10wt. oil on the felt myself;whatever type of points lube/oil you use will make the fiber rubbing block last longer.The felt being on the bottom keeps the oil from finding it's way up onto the contacts,hopefully..

 

[iatethepeach]

Thanks! The points and condenser are Daiichi-Denso.

While running errands I had the chance to do a few more tests at high RPM/WOT. The first time, though, I couldn't pin it for long because I closed on the car ahead of me (which doesn't happen often, so it was kind of exciting in its own right). Then when I pulled out of the hardware store I hit reserve and by the time the carb sorted itself out it was too late for a good run. But later I found a nice straight empty road and there was no missing for over a mile. Maybe it will be OK. I'll still check out the spark like you suggest when I clean the points contacts this afternoon.

I parked next to this boss at the hardware store and had to get a photo.

 

[grcamna5]

Daichi are very poor quality points. I like that Olds !

 

[iatethepeach]

Daichi are very poor quality points. I like that Olds !

Rats. The site I bought them from led me to believe they were the original Honda part (and I think I bought the same for the XL, too). Ah, well. If this problem persists, I'll get a new set from the dealer.

I cleaned the contacts and checked the spark, which looks great. I've been prepping and painting stuff for the XL all day, though, so I didn't get to go for another ride. I'm heading out now before my gf gets home from her horse show and it's time for burritos.

 

[grcamna5]

I looked it up online and you want to find an oem points plate assm. complete pt.# 30200-107-014 (or the TOYO brand NOS oem Honda pt.# 30200-107-154 which is NLA but excellent quality)it says that's a ND(Nippon Denso) and it's the complete points plate assm.,they want around $40 for it online+ shipping.
Beware of china-copies,this should come in a Honda red label bag w/ part.# on the Honda box.
The original stuff will last a long time & as long as you have a fresh condenser(no longer than 5yrs. shelf life,even an aftermarket condenser will work fine:'Fresh' is the key-word...) they won't burn the contacts excessively.

edit: I think you'll have better long life service from the Toyo brand points plate # 30200-107-154 which is no longer avail. new from Honda and you will find an NOS one online,possibly ebay or even a quality Honda dealer like Western Honda Powersports in Scottsdale,AZ. I'm Sure That one will certainly be Made in Japan quality. Just make sure you get the complete "points plate assembly" including everything;the rear shape of the Toyo points are different than the ND points where they mount-up to the points plate itself.A pr. of the Toyo points will last you for years w/ a good condenser compared to what you already have that wears-out quickly.
The # 30200-107-014 'Denso' could possibly be sourced from china..,you'll only know once you receive it and check to see if it's just what you already have.. I've seen some parts come through 'new' lately direct from Honda w/ the correct packaging & everything but still be Not Made in Japan.. :