New CL100 Owner

[iatethepeach]

Thanks, trek!

 

[trek97]

your welcome. Be sure to use "something" to coat the S/S threads. Stainless and aluminum combo are the worst about galling.

locktite, anti-seize almost anything will help.

I use Real-tuff on all S/S bolts. Its neither locktite or antiseize. Its thread sealer w teflon, mostly used for plumbing fittings, but great for anything w threads. Has a higher temp rating than other products. and a tub is like $5 thats a life time supply dont care how many bolts you got. And you can get it at any decent hardware store prolly in the plumbing dept.

Or you can get a teeny weenie little tube of the same stuff by Permatex at advance auto...for $10...enough for like 5 screws. lol

http://www.amazon.com/Oatey-15620-2PT-RealTuf-Sealant/dp/B000BPOOXI/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1442779425&sr=8-2-fkmr0&keywords=real-tuff+thread+sealer

 

[grcamna5]

Nice pics of the TDM at the 'mud bogs' and nice pics/close-ups of the panniers and racks.
I have a CB125S that I had a welder adapt a vintage luggage rack to from a bigger bike and it fits well and gives me plenty of 'top-rack-space'.
I'm going to find a pr. of suitcase style/Krauser type luggage boxes from someone at a swap meet sometime and adapt those to my little CB125 using the good,strong top luggage rack(which is 4-point frame mounted)as the main stressed member of the rear luggage rack set-up.I may be able to get a pr. of rear Krauser boxes w/ the racks from a vintage 70's BMW R75 and adapt/weld that to fit: I'll find a way to do it

How did your CL fuel tank do? clean up ok ?

 

[iatethepeach]

Be sure to use "something" to coat the S/S threads. Stainless and aluminum combo are the worst about galling.

locktite, anti-seize almost anything will help.

I use Real-tuff on all S/S bolts.

Word. I have a lifetime supply of anti-seize but I'm known to spend like a sailor when I'm in the plumbing aisle of my hardware store, so I may try out that RealTuf stuff on the Honda. Thanks.

I'm going to find a pr. of suitcase style/Krauser type luggage boxes from someone at a swap meet sometime and adapt those to my little CB125 using the good,strong top luggage rack

Sounds great. I'd like to see that.

How did your CL fuel tank do? clean up ok ?

I'm still working on it. I let MEK sit in it for a couple more days, which along with some post-treatment shaking in sonic isolation, removed a surprising amount of additional gunk and BBs. The liner looked to be 99% gone when I checked with the scope after that, but I decided another round of MEK wouldn't hurt. Tomorrow I'll drain it and do another rust treatment.

 

[trek97]

OH and when using anything on bolts ALWAYS GO WITH THE LOWEST TORQUE VALUE GIVEN IN THE TIGHTENING SPECS.

The higher torque value is for DRY FIT ONLY.

 

[trek97]

Im not the biggest fan of anti-seize. I used it on my 70 Chevy exhaust manifold and carb bolts. The stuff worked TOO GOOD. I was always in there retightening the dang things. Even after I cleaned it off.

 

[iatethepeach]

OH and when using anything on bolts ALWAYS GO WITH THE LOWEST TORQUE VALUE GIVEN IN THE TIGHTENING SPECS.

The higher torque value is for DRY FIT ONLY.

Thanks for that tip, too. I was unaware and usually split the difference.

 

[iatethepeach]

I'm starting to go over my electrical connections. My battery negative cable attaches directly to the frame at the forward airbox mount. Is this correct? According to the parts fiche, It looks like it should feed into the main harness, then attach somewhere else. Just checkin'.

I discovered a mechanic more resourceful than me reinstalled the coil at some point:

 

[trek97]

Yep, Its correct. Just attaches to frame at airbox.

Does the wire from the condenser feeding the points just have tape on it for insulation? Its hard to see in the pic.

 

[grcamna5]

I'd clean up all those connections especially the frame ground wire and then remove the coil and clean both sides of each laminated steel end so your condenser makes a strong ground connection(probably would be good to replace the condenser w/ a fresh:less than 5 yrs. old condenser)and that'll keep your points from burning/pitting prematurely.

 

[iatethepeach]

Thanks, guys.

trek, all the wires have their plastic coatings and those I've inspected look fine. A lot of the harness is wrapped in tape, though. There's cloth on the wire that runs to the points, but it was fraying badly under the points cover, so when I installed the new points I trimmed it back to the grommet where it enters the housing. I assumed the cloth was purely cosmetic. Is that right?

grcamna5, I intend to do as you suggest.

 

[trek97]

Its fiberglass to help guard the plastic insulation from the heat of the engine head.

 

[iatethepeach]

Its fiberglass to help guard the plastic insulation from the heat of the engine head.

In that case, I'll replace it. Presumably, there's a modern high-temperature plastic equivalent? Thanks for catching that.

 

[trek97]

I would contact "Sonreir" aka Matt aka sparckmoto.com he might have the length you need without breaking the bank.

 

[trek97]

Hell let me dig aorund...I may have just what you need. Its not exactly "correct" but I was gonna use it for mine. Its actually fiberglass insulated "fire proof wire" Code compliant industry standard, we use it at work to wire the Hallway/Hoistway door locks on passenger elevators. Its 18awg stranded wire.

 

[iatethepeach]

Ha, thanks, trek! Earlier I was hunting around online and saw that Electronics Plus sells high-temp wire by the foot:

http://www.electronicplus.com/content/ProductPage.asp?maincat=wr&subcat=whi

I can pick up some from them. I'd get it from Sparck but I don't see it on their site.

 

[trek97]

Found it! Got about 10 feet so I could spare 2 feet. You want me to mail it tomorrow?

Perfect stuff for this application! Maybe the same as the $2.10 a foot stuff.

 

[trek97]

I'd get it from Sparck but I don't see it on their site.

Matts got some stuff not listed. Hes on DTT as "Sonreir" or just email sparkmoto sales contacts.

I ask him for weird stuff now and again. Maybe a pain in his butt. But Ive been a pretty darn good customer. ;D He has always come through.

he may even make you the cable w the correct connectors and everything.

 

[iatethepeach]

Thanks, that would be awesome! That wire must be very heat-resistant. I was thinking the 356-degree F silicone stuff would be adequate.

I'm in no rush, btw. If you send it, just slap a regular stamp on the envelope.

 

[trek97]

10-4 bubba, consider it done. Maybe 800-1000 degree stuff.