New Jersey sr500 tracker/scrambler

Nj732port said:
Ahaha I was drinkin! Just the tip are screwed up I'm not sure how it happened but I'm bummed you have any of em from those parts engines or can I pick one of these up from a hardware store?! Gonna be heading over tomorrow to torque everything, get my new clutch lever and throttle sorted out, put some grips on, and chain slack!
find a longer bolt with the same thread an file one deep slot at the tip so it looks kinda lika a threading tap
small chainsaw file works great
then wire wheel buff it to remove burs and dull the edges you are making more of a form tap than a cutting tap
it will remove loose shhit with the groove and reform knurled over threads within reason
i probably do have thai bolt the shouldered down job eh ?
 
Nj732port said:
Well tick you guys I didn't get to that yet but soon!

What tank is this off and whose trying to buy it?!

Fuck the rain!!

but those threads are still perfectly good
peel out the aluminum and wire wheel it lightyly and just to make sure thread it into a known good thread
we are talking a good quality bolt steel vs cast aluminum,frank ,....it would be vitrtually impossibble to knurl over the bolt thraeds if they are in aluminum
the issue is how many good threads remain you need a minumum of 1 thread diameter
if it is someything needs torqueing 1-1/2 is closer to min
there is some pressure on that,not like a cylinder head,but could be as high a 120 lbs of force pushing agaisnt that cover
 
xb33bsa said:
but those threads are still perfectly good
peel out the aluminum and wire wheel it lightyly and just to make sure thread it into a known good thread
we are talking a good quality bolt steel vs cast aluminum,frank ,....it would be vitrtually impossibble to knurl over the bolt thraeds if they are in aluminum
the issue is how many good threads remain you need a minumum of 1 thread diameter
if it is someything needs torqueing 1-1/2 is closer to min
there is some pressure on that,not like a cylinder head,but could be as high a 120 lbs of force pushing agaisnt that cover

Yeah, I tried to push some of it off but didn't have time I was really hopeing for the bolt to be screwed up rather than the case threads.. I'll try to wire wheel it off tomorrow
 
I need to find the torque specs for the case bolts it's not in the manual from what I looked through, got my clutch all set up and realized I forgot my rubber, went to do the center stand and the vise grips slipped off cut me up and I said fuck it went home tomorrow is another day :mad: ::)

Oil bolt is screwed it looks like the threads are crushed no idea how but I didn't get a chance to try a wire wheel on it
 

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My lower oil filter bolt is a special bolt that blocks a passage for the oil to flow down in to the sump. I bought a new one because the threads on the only one became rounded, the new one screws in perfectly but won't fully tighten how can I fix this? I was thinking of cutting a grooved in the old bolt how xb explained but not sure it will work because the edges of that one are rounded off. Would I be better off getting a tap and just running that down to clean up the threads if they can be cleaned up...
 
You can use the old bolt and cut a slot on either side to give a room for some of the crud to go into. Wind it in and out a few times and then remove all the dirt.

Compare the thread length, if its the same length and it still doesn't tighten it may be your new bolt "cutting" new threads if the old threads are marred on the case.
 
looks like im gonna pick up a tap and clean up the threads later today, (if they have a m6x1) at lowes... I bought a 3 inch extended decompression cable and it is entirely too short with no adjustment at all, when installed the decomp mechanism is not flush with the engine at its longest length wtf did these Japanese parts suppliers send me?! any ideas as to what I can be doing wrong with that?

oelschraube04.jpg
this is the bolt im dealing with right now the tap shud give me some nice fresh threads
 
there is no such thing as clean up threads,not really specially females in cast alum
when they are pulled out clean as a whistle ,screwed onto the bolt like a slinky,well there nothing there to cleanup
you need to generate new threads reither deeper and a longer screw or a helicoil is perfect app for this type of repair
you should have a few taps anyway, but get a helicoil kit and have somebody show you, who can do them correctly
 
Nj732port said:
looks like im gonna pick up a tap and clean up the threads later today, (if they have a m6x1) at lowes... I bought a 3 inch extended decompression cable and it is entirely too short with no adjustment at all, when installed the decomp mechanism is not flush with the engine at its longest length wtf did these Japanese parts suppliers send me?! any ideas as to what I can be doing wrong with that?

oelschraube04.jpg
this is the bolt im dealing with right now the tap shud give me some nice fresh threads

did you route the cable like a white man ? i mean correctly routed ?
 
so I skipped half of this response... the having someone show me how to do it part... I did not use any locktite or epoxy to secure the helicoil so I might go back in and redo that part.................................................................... as far the routing, I have no idea but I don't think that would limit the inner cable length.... :mad: too many little things getting f'd up! ill post some pics of the PO's helicoil job that I found (I think I made the same mistake not using an epoxy ::))
 
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