New stock CL350, just rejetted by mechanic. No power under 3k RPM. Stumped...
- Thread starter so2002
- Start date
so2002
Been Around the Block
I've had the carbs apart (twice now). Got all new brass from sirius. Only parts that didn't fit where the idle adjuster screws, so I have what was originally on there. No idea if it is right or wrong, I bought the bike like this. Nothing looks bent or misaligned, but intricate pictures of Keihin 3D carbs are not readily available on the internet.
crazypj
Split personality, I fake being smart
Screws are 15mm under the head, Springs are 9.5mm
There is also a steel 'seat' on carb body for the screw to butt onto (looks almost like a nail head)
It's about 0.50~0.75mm thick, can't get an accurate measurement
With the screw completely removed there is about 3.25mm between lever and screw seat
There is also a steel 'seat' on carb body for the screw to butt onto (looks almost like a nail head)
It's about 0.50~0.75mm thick, can't get an accurate measurement
With the screw completely removed there is about 3.25mm between lever and screw seat
so2002
Been Around the Block
Sorry, I should mention that I did measure it with a caliper. I just put that there for reference (it's actually quite accurate). I replaced the screw with a 16mm screw and synced them. Swapped out my old tires for new ones today because I was waiting on a part. Will give this all a shot tomorrow. 
so2002
Been Around the Block
No kidding, and after I put the battery and the tank on, I realized that one of the gas tank nipples had gone right through the fuel line and fuel was dumping everywhere! 8" of 1/4 fuel line later, I had the bike running. RUNNING!!! YAY!
The bike was revving at 5k RPM, so I adjusted the idle screw and cables to get it idling at 1k rpm. When revving the bike, the idle generally goes back down to 1k rpm slowly. After a minute or so of idling, I checked the plugs and they looked okay (1.5 turns out on the mixture screw). I decided to try a cruise around the block.
And that's when I noticed the issues. The bike is still very temperamental. It will rev hard, right to redline without issue, it also has power in the low RPM band that I didn't have before. But, intermittently, it wants to die when I'm slowing down to a stop. I want to say it's a function of how aggressive I was on the throttle immediately previously, but that isn't necessarily the case. I think this is the same issue I was having originally, but now unmasked, as the other bits were all fixed. My buddy (with 4 CB's) has deemed this bike the Bike from Hell.
When I put the clutch in, I can feel the RPM's dropping faster than usual. I counteract by giving it more gas, sometimes 1/8 throttle, sometimes 1/2. Of the times this happens, it dies regardless about 50% of the time, and then won't turn over for 15-45 seconds. Then for whatever reason, it starts right up, no problem. I tried filling the tank with gas, but it still suffers the same issue.
I suspect it might be related to the petcock filter, but the inline fuel filters are clean.
Any suggestions?
8" of 1/4 fuel line later, I had the bike running. RUNNING!!! YAY! The bike was revving at 5k RPM, so I adjusted the idle screw and cables to get it idling at 1k rpm. When revving the bike, the idle generally goes back down to 1k rpm slowly. After a minute or so of idling, I checked the plugs and they looked okay (1.5 turns out on the mixture screw). I decided to try a cruise around the block.
And that's when I noticed the issues. The bike is still very temperamental. It will rev hard, right to redline without issue, it also has power in the low RPM band that I didn't have before. But, intermittently, it wants to die when I'm slowing down to a stop. I want to say it's a function of how aggressive I was on the throttle immediately previously, but that isn't necessarily the case. I think this is the same issue I was having originally, but now unmasked, as the other bits were all fixed. My buddy (with 4 CB's) has deemed this bike the Bike from Hell.
When I put the clutch in, I can feel the RPM's dropping faster than usual. I counteract by giving it more gas, sometimes 1/8 throttle, sometimes 1/2. Of the times this happens, it dies regardless about 50% of the time, and then won't turn over for 15-45 seconds. Then for whatever reason, it starts right up, no problem. I tried filling the tank with gas, but it still suffers the same issue.
I suspect it might be related to the petcock filter, but the inline fuel filters are clean.
Any suggestions?
yes you can turn off valve remove trap/screen and clean
don't dump the sediment trap right away look for signs of Dihydrogen monoxide
while you have it off drain some gas in a clean clear glass jar and let it settle look again for water
water is often overlooked as an issue
don't dump the sediment trap right away look for signs of Dihydrogen monoxide
while you have it off drain some gas in a clean clear glass jar and let it settle look again for water
water is often overlooked as an issue
Scooter trash
Been Around the Block
This isn't related to carbs, but can cause some of your symptoms when warm. Is the camshaft shimmed properly? There should only be one shim that is .1mm thick or .0039" thick. I have seen this on rebuilds were the mechanic thought no clearance was better. The cam must have end play. When the engine warms up, the cam will expand in length, causing the engine to die at idle. After it cools it starts up fine.
Also do you see a bright flash on your points as they open. There should only be a faint flash or spark. This could indicate the condenser isn't matched for your coils.
Also do you see a bright flash on your points as they open. There should only be a faint flash or spark. This could indicate the condenser isn't matched for your coils.
so2002
Been Around the Block
The sparks at the points are fairly faint, tough to see during the day, I don't think that is the issue. I went with the EM24 from Z1 http://www.z1enterprises.com/ItemDetails.aspx?item=EM24-71512
I have absolutely no idea about the camshaft. I know that the engine is not the original, but other than that, it's a big question mark. My assumption would be that a PO replaced a non-running engine with a non-rebuilt running engine, but I have no idea really. Certainly hope that's not the issue!
Didn't get a chance to check the petcock last night, will take a gander after work tonight.
Mike
I have absolutely no idea about the camshaft. I know that the engine is not the original, but other than that, it's a big question mark. My assumption would be that a PO replaced a non-running engine with a non-rebuilt running engine, but I have no idea really. Certainly hope that's not the issue!
Didn't get a chance to check the petcock last night, will take a gander after work tonight.
Mike
ideally camshaft endplay is kept at the low end of spec which is .008" ....the maximum thermal expansion in length of the cam is about .015"
however the head grows more than the cam so running clearance is kept low
camshaft endplay can be checked with a dial indicator at the points end
without disassembly check when cold
however the head grows more than the cam so running clearance is kept low
camshaft endplay can be checked with a dial indicator at the points end
without disassembly check when cold
