New stock CL350, just rejetted by mechanic. No power under 3k RPM. Stumped...

crazypj said:
You may have to dismantle the points wire bolt and check all the insulators are in correct places so the terminal can't short out on anything.
Should have (from bolt head) steel washer, insulating washer, insulating spacer, insulating washer, steel washer, lock washer, nut
The terminal fits between steel washer and insulating washer at nut end, you usually have to flip them over compared to pic so it doesn't touch back plate.
The tiny spacer may be missing or broken allowing bolt to touch the metal stationary part of points bolt goes through?
Click to expand...

Nailed it. I rebuilt the points as described above (from inside --> out, or top --> bottom) as follows:
Nut,
lock washer,
point wire connection,
steel washer,
insulating spacer,
point plate,
insulating spacer,
point leaf string,
steel washer,
bolt head

I was switched the orientation on the point wire connections to make sure that they were not in contact with the backing plate, nor the points cover. I then tightened everything up so that it won't move or shift. Bike fired right up and ran well. 8)

Thanks PJ, I will continue where I left off and start tuning the carbs!
 
so2002 said:
Nailed it. I rebuilt the points as described above (from inside --> out, or top --> bottom) as follows:
Nut,
lock washer,
point wire connection,
steel washer,
insulating spacer,
point plate,
insulating spacer,
point leaf string,
steel washer,
bolt head

I was switched the orientation on the point wire connections to make sure that they were not in contact with the backing plate, nor the points cover. I then tightened everything up so that it won't move or shift. Bike fired right up and ran well. 8)

Thanks PJ, I will continue where I left off and start tuning the carbs!
Click to expand...
glad you got that there is also an insulating tube/bushing that keeps the screw centered
but i have seen stepped plastic warshers which acomplis the same task
 
xb33bsa said:
glad you got that there is also an insulating tube/bushing that keeps the screw centered
but i have seen stepped plastic warshers which acomplis the same task
Click to expand...

On this set of points (aftermarket), the insulated washers have an extrusion to fit into the hole on the points plate, keeping the screw away from the plate and insulated.
 
Ran the bike for a few hours this weekend. The throttle really crisps up when I set the mixture screw to 1/4 turns out. Obviously to lean this thing out a bit. I'm wondering what jet I need to replace as the naming conventions are a bit vague. Tell me if I'm wrong here, but I should swap out the pilot jet, which is the long one that screws in under the rubber plug? According to what's listed on Sirius for the kit I purchased, I already have the 35 in there, but I have not checked that for sure. Is that the correct jet to swap, or is it the Intermediate jet that I should replace?
 
crazypj said:
Yep, try a 32 or 30 pilot to lean out idle
Click to expand...

Any ideas on where I can find pilots in those sizes? My google searches for "keihin 3d" or "honda cl/cb" turn up negative for anything other than 35 and 38.

Yep, as far as I can tell, 35 is the smallest in existance.
 
I would stay at the 35's with 3/4 out on the air screws.

I've run CB350's in various configurations over the last 20+ years on those jet setting I listed on the other page.....and for stock motors.....its perfect.
 
Devil bike is back :mad:

I noticed that the bike started missing on the right side more and more. I retimed it (it was in spec), gapped the points (.014 and .013), and gapped the plugs (.028), but it had no effect. I put in a new plug on the right side. The bike then rode fine for about a half mile, before misfiring again.

If I pull the left side carb throttle only, the engine accelerates. If I pull the right, the idle stays the same or worsens.

Plugs are both rich, but more a dark brown than black.

Any suggestions? Is this still a grounding issue?!?

I forgot to hold the plug to the casing and crank. Will try that tonight...
 
I would re-check the coils.
Take them off bike, do primary and secondary resistance (without plug caps) put in oven at 175f, when up to temp, check resistances again.
They shouldn't vary by more than a few percent and should be OK to at least 220f before things start melting (probably good to 300 but I haven't tried that ;) )
If you have capacitance on your meter, checking condensors would also be a good idea
 
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