OJ's CB360 and a Story of Not Enough Time

As long as the actual cover is still good don't worry about the locating vanes, they are not needed
 
OK...I need schooling on this. The four vanes or whatchamacallits have no real role in the filter. The cap is fine, so I'll put it together and check that oil still gets up to the cam.

I also scored another cylinder head. It's crusty and is missing one intake valve, but the bearings are perfect. I need to clean it and potentially replace the old head later on. The old head does have those scratches on the middle bearing.
 
Slowly but not too surely. Unfortunately I was advised, that it will be a weekend at the cottage with in-laws, so no time in my fortress of solitude this weekend.
 

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And you pointed that out already a while ago, but I managed to forget. I get to practice some more motorcycle repair.

I never pulled the valves off, so the spring has been that way since last time the cylinder head was off, whenever that was...
 
Now that I'm trying to put 1 and 1 together...maybe the valve spring has been the culprit to my issues of left cylinder running worse than right.

Might try Princess Auto valve spring compressor unless my father in law has something I could borrow.
 
Spring won't affect anything until you rpm up a bit
No idea what rpm it will have major effect though (probably 6k up getting progressively worse?)
 
As you have to take the head off, it's probably a good idea to check all the valve springs, the inner springs are also 'directional'
It's a bit more work but less than replacing a bent valve, plus, you can check seats are good
 
I couldn't find info on the inner springs, do they need to be mounted the same way as the outer?
 
The spring compressor worked like a charm. Valve seats look OK, no pitting and valves are quite clean. Acetone does not leak past the valves either. I do have a second cylinder head with better cam bearing surfaces, or the surfaces are almost mint. Otherwise the second head is bit crusty and valves are rusty as hell. I might try to clean it and maybe lap the valve seats and put new valves in.
 
You know the time you torqued the cylinder head cover down, went to bed and woke up the following morning with a knawing doubt of whether you tightened the cam pulley bolts or not? Maybe you have never experienced this, but this happened to me today. Pulled the head cover and sure enough, the bolts were tight.

I'm hoping to fire her up later today.
 
Here she goes! Third kick and she came back to life after heart operation. No jetting (well, I put in 110 mains and see how they work), no syncing, no air filters, no permanent battery....not much, but she couched back to life. Tappets sound louder in the video than they actually are. Almost blinded myself using LED pot light as a static timing light.

"Funny" incident today. I was putting diaphragms back in the carbs and noticed left to have a tear on it. I patched it with contact cement and ordered new set from JBM Industries. We'll see what happens. Need a new battery, I think the Walmart special is tost, or maybe it's just a feature that it loses charge in 72 hours or so. NEed to check that the head gets oil.

I still have time to got for a ride. On my bicycle, but a ride regardless.

http://vimeo.com/99687680
 
Next up is the seat fabrication. Since I want to keep the bike on the road, I'm going to do the V1 of the seat to fit stock frame. No idea how it will work out, i have not done any fibreglass fabrication, just minor carbon fibre repairs, but we'll see what comes out of the other end.
 
Took her for a quick rip last night and she does go. I was hoping for a longer ride in the countryside to test bit more, but when I was heading out and put her on 1st gear, the clutch mechanism clicked off somehow and I stalled. When pulling the clutch in, the left casing mechanism made a snapping sound and the clutch did not disengage. I played with the adjustments for quite a while until I got the clutch working again. Is it normal that the clutch adjustment is less than 1/4 sensitive (both adjusting screw on the case and cable adjustment)?
 
Yes, particularly with aftermarket cable. The outer is slightly too long
 
One short ride later. Bike seems to pull OK up to 7000-8000 rpm, but she seems to be running rich. I did a faster bit and acceleration was good up to 130 km/h, but I didn't try pushing any further. Going back she starter missing and didn't want to idle at stop lights. Once back home, I pulled the plugs to find them sooty as hell.

Overall seems OK, but need some tuning. Clutch works quite well. Oil wants to leak out the drive shaft seal, Rotella 5W-40 most likely won't help. Any advise on how to replace the drive shaft seal without splitting the cases?
 
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