Powder coat or polish CB450 Build!
- Thread starter Zonda
- Start date
kneedragger
Been Around the Block
I agree with philos1; that IS tits!
HerrDeacon
Over 1,000 Posts
Awesome, that looks killer!!
Yep, thanks for the motivation gents, I'm stoked with the outcome 
The rims, hubs etc have been sitting there for a week now, and as getting the engine in the frame was my major objective the rims haven't been done. I need a "pick me up" after having to redo the head so started to do the wheels and as you said they look "tits". I hadn't thought about the surface being slippery, will the 450 make enought HP to do that : I'll consult the tyre wizards when they mount the tiers ....mmm tires that another Q that needs to be answered
I've been sorting through the nuts and bolts working out which ones need bright zinc platting and which ones need to be chromed, as all bolts and nuts etc will be plated, it gives a better look and they won't rust.
My one big concern is the muffler i have a cool 70's NOS one and can get after market ones but they all look the same...like to be a little different, I'm even thinking about making a pair..mmmm don't know. :-\ what are your thoughts...anyone want to make me a pair, then again with the Australian dollar doing a nose dive buying anything out side of OZ is bloody expensive +45% US and double if i buy Euro!
The rims, hubs etc have been sitting there for a week now, and as getting the engine in the frame was my major objective the rims haven't been done. I need a "pick me up" after having to redo the head so started to do the wheels and as you said they look "tits". I hadn't thought about the surface being slippery, will the 450 make enought HP to do that : I'll consult the tyre wizards when they mount the tiers ....mmm tires that another Q that needs to be answered I've been sorting through the nuts and bolts working out which ones need bright zinc platting and which ones need to be chromed, as all bolts and nuts etc will be plated, it gives a better look and they won't rust.
My one big concern is the muffler i have a cool 70's NOS one and can get after market ones but they all look the same...like to be a little different, I'm even thinking about making a pair..mmmm don't know. :-\ what are your thoughts...anyone want to make me a pair, then again with the Australian dollar doing a nose dive buying anything out side of OZ is bloody expensive +45% US and double if i buy Euro!
Canuck Plumber
Badges? We don't need no stinking badges!
I could check here in Canada... our $$ are about the same most of the time....
valvesprung
Over 1,000 Posts
F!ck me I want that muffler! If you go a different route you better let me know!
Hey Valvesprung, Are you in the States? if so, it's a Kayo brand muffler and i've seen them for sale before on EvilBay in the good old US. I brought the Muffler as a pair so would hate to split them, but and their is always a but, if things change you have first offer ;D
I've been slack as of late, that @#!$# thing called work has had me by the balls :'( But parts keep arriving, got the silver grey wire tubing in the mail (from Japan) as i like my bikes to look almost factory, the wiring will be the same as the factory Honda's.
Still haven't got the head back from the engine shop; the wheels are being fitted with tires and the forks are still being done so it's on to the small stuff....... 8)
But did get the bright zinc stuff back from the elect/plater all this plus delivered to work for $90 Aus ;D ;D
The chrome will be another couple of weeks I'm told.
Rod
I've been slack as of late, that @#!$# thing called work has had me by the balls :'( But parts keep arriving, got the silver grey wire tubing in the mail (from Japan) as i like my bikes to look almost factory, the wiring will be the same as the factory Honda's.
Still haven't got the head back from the engine shop; the wheels are being fitted with tires and the forks are still being done so it's on to the small stuff....... 8)
But did get the bright zinc stuff back from the elect/plater
all this plus delivered to work for $90 Aus ;D ;DThe chrome will be another couple of weeks I'm told.
Rod
Thanks Joe, I've been following your TX build and you've got me hooked on doing my own powder coating you make it look soooo simple.
Started doing the rear sets today and..well not sure how they're going to turn out, any way here's the brake..I've reversed the brake pivot and shortened the brake arm but lengthened the pull-rod arm the ratio has change but I'm confident that the effort required to action the brake will be ok. The gear shift will pivot off the same center stand pipe and i've started to mod the center stand to be a side stand, hopefully the whole lot will look neet and somewhat hidden.
Started doing the rear sets today and..well not sure how they're going to turn out, any way here's the brake..I've reversed the brake pivot and shortened the brake arm but lengthened the pull-rod arm the ratio has change but I'm confident that the effort required to action the brake will be ok. The gear shift will pivot off the same center stand pipe and i've started to mod the center stand to be a side stand, hopefully the whole lot will look neet and somewhat hidden.
it is all about prep brother... When i first started out before i got the media blaster... i would use a "fine" wire wheel... then wipe it all down with "PREP" it is a spray cleaner any paint shop will have... then you want to get the powder to "wet" depending on the oven you use this is typically done at 450* once all the powder looks wet... drop the oven temp to the cure temp of that particular powder... let it bake for 20 -25 min... to cool the item PULL IT OUT OF THE OVEN... do not just turn off the oven to let it cool, this will not work you will get out gas bubbles... if you have any ? let me know
ooh ya get a hot coat gun NOT the harbor freight!!! they suck
you can get started using a toaster oven... do little parts... you just wnat to do the mock up of how you willplace the parts in the oven so after they are powdered your not running around like an idiot trying to figure out how they will fit in the oven and not touch the part... ya I have been there
ooh ya get a hot coat gun NOT the harbor freight!!! they suck
you can get started using a toaster oven... do little parts... you just wnat to do the mock up of how you willplace the parts in the oven so after they are powdered your not running around like an idiot trying to figure out how they will fit in the oven and not touch the part... ya I have been there
Had a slow day a work so took the time to make a new brake torque arm, carbon fiber with 0.020" titanium skins. The titanium will act as a bolting surface and also stop damage to the carbon caused by stones etc, thrown up by the tyre. As the torque arm is only worked in tension this configuration is perfect and can withstand up to 6000 lb of tensional load, so it may look light-on but it a'nt.... ;D oh and it's bloody light....2.8 ounce ;D
zixxerboy said:
It won't....i've put some time into this and the leverance required was to much and would have been to sensitive
. so i've gone back to the drawing board and started again, this time it will be more conventional, but still using 1960-70's parts. My biggest headache at the moment is i can't finish anything as I'm still waiting for parts . The good news is i share my work space with a research company and they have just brought a small powder coat unit to test the feasibility of powder coating composites, and, well as we are all good friends and a couple of them ride, i've been able to "help" setup and "test" there unit with them ;D. I've brought some gloss black to start with and hopefully will be able to produce a finish worthy of the "dotheton" oracle's.
Tim said:
Tim
The material i work with is aerospace grade and this makes it quite easy for me to manufacture parts out of leftovers and "scrap". the principal is the same no matter what material you use. I used carbon 220 weight bi-directional pre-preg as this is readily available and relatively cheep. I cut a template to the shape i wanted and them laid up the fibre making sure that the orientation of the outer ply's were in the longitudinal direction, ie, length ways, and the centre two ply's were laid so as the fibre orientation were at + 45. This gave me a laminate that exceptional strength and stiffness.
As high end composites have excellent tensional strength, this is perfect for torque arms as they have no lateral loads and are only under load when the brake is applied, the amount of load is quite low comparative to the slip load of the tyre, ie the tyre will skid before the arm reaches it tensional load threshold. (+ 6000 lb)
After lay-up i cut two payers of film adhesive and applied them to the 0.020" titanium outer skins and laid the whole lot up to be cured in one go on a core plate with a .0.100" alloy plate over the top to ensure even load distribution, cured in an over under vacuum for several hours.
Job done, you can do the same with dry cloth and epoxy resin.
1. make your template and cut your outer skins. You could use alloy, if you do, use aircraft grade alloy, 2000 series is the best as it's a copper alloy and will withstand corrosion better than most, but can't be welded successfully, or, 5000 series as this can be welded and has good corrosion resistance. This alloy MUST be tempered, it will have a designation like T3, T851 etc do not use material designated "0" as this is very soft and has little internal strength. Or use aircraft grade stainless steel 1/4 hard or less.
2. Get you're self some carbon or "s" (structural) rated glass bidirectional woven cloth around 200-300 weight, remember that you will need to cut two ply's at +45 deg to the length of the fibre so make sure that you have enough cloth for this.
3. Ok, resin, go to your local supplier and get some room temperature cure structural epoxy resin. tell them what you are doing and they should be able to guide you. but it must be structural resin, Hysol, 3M are two good brands. You will only need a small amount, say 250 - 500 ml or 1/4 -1/2 quart.
4. befor you start make sure that you have everything that you need
scissors
permanent marker "medium"
1" paintbrush
enought clear plastic to create an envelope
beer
a squeegee, spatular, or something soft that you can push the resin around with
stapler
a clean work space
beer
a small amount of clear plastic to lay your job on
gloves!!!!! they are cheap and you can get a box from the chemist of rubber/latex gloves for nix ;D
A roller
more cold beer
5. Ok still with me
you should now have your, outer skins cut and trimmed, enough cloth for the job, good quality epoxy resin and consumables.6. Plastic.....you should be able to get clear plastic off the roll from a large hardware store, try to get plastic that comes as a tube...around 4 foot wide and when cut along one side can be opened out to create an envelope.
7. right ;D ;D ;D where to start
. place enough cloth inside the plastic envelope to do the job and then staple it in along the seam, this will stop it moving around and keep it secure whilst you work.
8. using your template draw your ply's on the plastic remember to make sure that the fibre is orientated along the length of the job and that you have two that are at +45 deg to the length of the fiber as it came off the roll.
The number of ply's must be even. so think of the center point and work out. the center is between the 45 deg ply's and their must be the same number each side of them.
9. take you outer skins and clean them using acetone. Scrub them with scotch-brite until they are a uniform mat finish -very important- then wipe them down with CLEAN tissues soaked in acetone until there is no visible crud on the tissue, this step is very important as the adhesive won't bond to the skin otherwise. put them aside on a clean surface brown paper plastic etc...
10. Mix your resin and then open the plastic envelope and pour in enough resin to wet out the cloth, close the envelope, if you have done this right you should have an envelope with your cloth and some resin inside.
11. Ok this is the important bit. work the resin from the OUTSIDE of the plastic using the plastic spatular, making sure that the cloth is completely wet through, turn the job over and make sure that it's completely wet. do not force he resin as it may move the fabric. Now move the excessive resin using the plastic spatular to the the folded and stapled side.
12. You should now have a plastic envelope with your ply's drawn on one side and the cloth inside wet with just enough resin inside and if done right the resin is trapped inside the envelope and not on you or the bench.
.Got to go gents 8) so the next installment will follow hopefully tomorrow
Rod
Flugtechnik
My bike is not transportation, it is a respite
Are you in the aerospace industry?
