Project bike photos.

Thanks, Supercafe. I've got my bike partly taken apart now, in order to redo the wiring harness. I'll take a photo when I get that done. Here's a photo of it before I started work on the wiring:

TX500003.jpg


DCM, yeah, I'll let you know next time I'm up your way. Feel free to drop me an e-mail if you're coming down to south county.
 
steve hows it going?
your build is sick man, wish i had one!!!!!!
please do post some pics when its done.
later.
 
ha ha ha WHAT UP STEVE! one of my motivations for building a TX500 right here buddy!
hey man... do me a solid... check out my build, i just finished my exhaust... i need to order some jets and HAVE NO CLUE what to go with... any help would be great! if i recall i think you told me that you went two over... i have baffles in the pipes but they are SSSSSHORT!
love the scoot as i have told you 1000x's man!
 
Wow, that tank and seat are killer. I wish I knew how to stretch mine. any tips, tools? I have a spare tank to experiment with.

Ted
 
i love this bike! i wish i could get my TX to run on point but it is like a never ending battle, a forum member is going to give it a shot for me this week!
 
JRK5892 said:
i love this bike! i wish i could get my TX to run on point but it is like a never ending battle, a forum member is going to give it a shot for me this week!
Click to expand...

Hey, Joe! I just looked at this thread after a long time. I watched that video you posted of your bike, it sounded great. What kind of trouble are you having with it?

Did you get that reply I sent you a long time ago about the jetting? Here's a copy of it:

Re: TX500 build
« Reply #423 on: Feb 27, 2009, 13:34:53 »

I ran #135 jets when I had short pipes (stock headers plus 12" supertrapps). Here's the part number for those jets: 99202-601-1350. I paid $5.48 each at my local Honda dealer, a few years ago.
 
SrgtBear said:
Wow, that tank and seat are killer. I wish I knew how to stretch mine. any tips, tools? I have a spare tank to experiment with.

Ted
Click to expand...

It's basically just cutting and welding sheet metal. I didn't do much of it myself; it takes way more panel-forming and welding skill than I have. My neighbor Paul did all the difficult cutting, shaping and welding. I didn't make any photos of my tank being modified, but here's a photo of a similar tank that was stretched using the same technique.
catboystank.jpg


See how he took a stock CB750 tank and cut it in half, and then added about an 8" strip of sheet metal in between the halves. He did a lot of panel-shaping, including knee dents and clip-on dents.

Maybe you could practice welding on some scrap metal of the same gague, learning how to get a good solid seam. And you would need access to an english wheel and a basic set of auto-body hammers and dollys, so you could practice shaping smooth curves. Professional-quality tinsnips, cutoff wheel and angle grinder are also essential; you have to get a really precise fit between the butted-together panels before you weld them.

Then you have to countersink the welded seams with a welders hammer, so the seams can be filled and smoothed. Then the whole tank has to be smoothed using some heat and quenching and tapping with a hammer to take down high spots and raise low spots. Then a final skim coat of body filler and sanding, sanding , sanding. Then seal the inside of the tank with POR-15.
 
thanks steve,
She is only runing ok when i run her at full or 1/2 choke... so i tried to play with it a bit and finally got a recomendation for a local tuner that is just great. i figure why not i got alot going on ill take it to him.
I get a call from him after he has my bike for 3 weeks and he said that it has no compression, it is showing at 98 when he tests it. however, he has not set the valves when he did the compression check. i am a bit blown away because when i did my compression check i showed in at 148, not bad next to the 150 stock. so we will see. i have never heard of not setting valves before doing a compression check, does not make any since at all! blucav85 on here is a local guy to me and is a yamaha mechanic so he is going to take a look at it...
somethign is not right... i asked him if he did a oil check on the cylinders and he did not know. the bike has been sitting for a winter, only run a few times, i woudl bet that feeding a bit of oil down the plug holes and draining that a day or so later work do the trick! we will see. i just suck at the tune crap and wish i knew more about it.
i fell in love wiht your scoot when i saw it so i had to build mine, now i wish mine ran as good as yours! i am going to have to pick up some #135 jets. prob people keep telling me is that i run the V stacks and the short pipes. so we will see... any ideas?
 
Compression: Check compression when the motor is warmed up, i.e after riding normally for a few miles. The TX500 should have compression in the range of 132 - 142. Don't add oil to the cylinders for your initial test; the oil would give you a false high reading. (Add oil to the cylinders only after you have conducted the first test, and found low compression. You then add oil to the cylinders for the second test, to find out whether you have worn rings or burned valves. The oil will temporarily improve the compression when you have worn rings. Oil will not raise the compression if you have burned valves.)

Valves: You're right, you want to adjust the valves before running a compression test. It's not hard, just time-consuming. All you need are wrenches (allen head and open-end wrenches) and a metric feeler gague. The Haynes manual has a good how-to.

Carbs: If your bike is running best when you have the choke on, and dies when you close the choke, that's telling you it's getting too much air (for the amount of fuel being delivered) when the choke is off. Lots of things could cause that, including clogged main jets, misadjusted air-fuel mixture, etc. You really need to go through the full diagnostic and tune-up procedure, per the manual. The Haynes manual is OK, but get the Yamaha shop manual and Clymer manual too. Good investments. Take your time, and work your way through it step by step.

BTW, put the stock airbox and mufflers back on until you get it tuned just right. You can experiment with intake and exhaust mods later.

Take your time and learn tuning yourself. The TX is a great bike to learn on. It may help to watch an expert do it the first time, but you can learn it from the manuals just as well.
 
Awesome! Jetsrus has the #135 jets... i am going to talk to my buddy and see if he wants me to just order 2 up and 2 down from there. it has to be one of them! now i just have to watch him do it!
 
So far, I have installed clip ons, made a seat and cowl from fiberglass, stretched the fuel tank (with the help of my neighbor Paul), put on aluminum rims and new tires (Bridgestone Spitfires), made rearsets and a battery box, etc. The seat cover was sewn by my wife.

I really raided the Yamaha parts bin for this project. Front fender from a Radian cruiser, fork brace from a DT-1 250, shift linkage from a FZR600, footpegs from a R6, rims and front caliper from a XS1, forks from a RD350, etc.

Still need: fuel lines, clutch cable, throttle cable, rear turn signals, bracket for license plate and brake light, battery, gauges, mufflers etc, etc, etc.


Steve Barker

San Juan Capistrano, CA
Click to expand...

Where / What did you do with the battery and or battery box? Kick start only?
 
I know it has been a while... just ordered 50 bucks in jets, i got 130, 135, 125, 140, and 145
ONE OF THEM HAS TO WORK!
 
JRK5892 said:
I know it has been a while... just ordered 50 bucks in jets, i got 130, 135, 125, 140, and 145
ONE OF THEM HAS TO WORK!
Click to expand...

hey joe, where did you get the jets for your tx500 carbs? Would like to know so I can have it as reference. Thx bud.
 
SrgtBear said:
Where / What did you do with the battery and or battery box? Kick start only?
Click to expand...

Sorry I missed your question before, Srgt. Anyway, I ditched the OEM battery box and made a smaller and lighter one out of sheet metal. You can see it in the pictures in my original post, it's painted gloss black, and mounted just above (and slightly to the rear of) the swingarm pivot.

It is kickstart only. I removed the starter motor, starter solenoid, starter drive chain and drive gears, and the free clutch. It all must have weighed twenty pounds or so.
 
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