"RATTLE CAN" BLING! ...everything is here!

HerrDeacon said:
I've used the Rustoleum paint and clear and loved the results as well. I did my car rims with it three or four years ago and they are still perfect looking.

One thing to keep in mind though, the colour paint has to be sufficiently cured before applying the clear. If not it will wrinkle up, believe me I know. The curing time is on the can.
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Twisted recommends putting a wet coat of clear on with the last wet coat of color to create a better bond. Do you disagree or do you mean after that to let it fully dry? Would you bake it between color and clear?

Twisted, your input would be appreciated as well.

Thanks guys
 
I am pretty sure he means after you do one set of coats to let cure then go to the next, this is with any coats. You can only lay so much at one time wet without it running, so you have to let it cure out before going on with more coats. The paint can feel "dry" and not be cured, the reason it wrinkles is due to the difference in cure rates from the layer that was sprayed at an earlier time than the top layer. You can do as I said and lay the last coat of color, then follow with clear as long as you do it in the time frame I stated. Once you go over about 20 to 25 minutes since your last coat, you must stop and wait for curing or you will wind up with undesirable results!
 
tWistedWheelz said:
I am pretty sure he means after you do one set of coats to let cure then go to the next, this is with any coats. You can only lay so much at one time wet without it running, so you have to let it cure out before going on with more coats. The paint can feel "dry" and not be cured, the reason it wrinkles is due to the difference in cure rates from the layer that was sprayed at an earlier time than the top layer. You can do as I said and lay the last coat of color, then follow with clear as long as you do it in the time frame I stated. Once you go over about 20 to 25 minutes since your last coat, you must stop and wait for curing or you will wind up with undesirable results!
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Got it. Thanks.
 
I haven't tried the method of spraying the clear with the last coat of colour so I can't really comment. Sounds good though. I'll have to try it sometime.

What I meant was when I work with Rustoleum (or Tremclad as we call is :) ) the final colour layer has to be fully cured or you'll get the wrinkling when the clear is applied. This is due to the reason Twisted just described. I like to wetsand the final layer of colour anyway before clearing so that's why I've never tried the other method. I think it will work though.

Let us know how it works out.
 
forgot about the baking part!
Baking is a good way to ensure a good hard coat, but I would still use the cure times I stated in the how to at the begining of this thread. Wait about 45 min after your last coat, then place in the oven at 200 to 250 degrees f. Leave it there for 1 to 3 hours and then carefully remove and place back in safe place for rest of cure time. I tried to bake and shorten cure times on my last rattle job and was not please with the final results, however if you do bake and wait out the cure time it makes for a really smooth finish that looks really shiny with gloss!
 
Frame painting question:

I've followed all your advice so far...
1. bare frame
2. paint stripped
3. cleaned, tack prepped
4. tack
5. cover
6. wet sanded
7. covered
8. ??

I'm currently using Rustoleum Gloss Black for the frame.

However, should you clear coat a frame or just leave it with the "matte" finish of the gloss black. (I kept the paint back far enough to fog the paint on I did not want to get too close and do a "wet" look, except on the triple clamps.

Should I do another wet sand, cover+clear coat? Do people usually clear coat the frame?
 
Well it sounds like you have a good grasp of how to get the paint to work for you! If you are altering your spraying method to change the finish, then you can do the same with the clear! I would use a clear as it really improves the durability of the paint job. I would shoot another two coats of your black then wait an 10 to 25 minutes and shoot the clear in the same manner you shoot the black and you should get the same finish. If you getting a matte finish then I would just leave it at that and not sand, buff, and wax at the end!

Post some pics of your finished job, I would love to see how it turned out!

Cheers!
 
Ya, I didnt clear my frame, and its already all nicked and scratched, and my bikes still in pieces. Thats after 5 - 6 healthy coats too. Im going to fix it up and clear it.
 
Gotcha, my camera was left at the in-laws house over Christmas, I'll try to get it back today or tomorrow.

It's time to head out to the garage give the bike a gentle wet sanding and drop a few more coats onto it.
 
just be sure it is warm enough to be shooting paint bud! if not it will never cure and chip and flake like crazy!
 
JRK5892 said:
just be sure it is warm enough to be shooting paint bud! if not it will never cure and chip and flake like crazy!
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I should be good on temperature, but if it is "chilly" I'll partially close the garage.

Highs of 66*-71* daytime and lows ~38* at night... but the garage doesn't get cold until late at night. I'm getting my camera back tomorrow, so I'll get some pics of the current status and my makeshift paint booth.
 
generic1776 said:
I should be good on temperature, but if it is "chilly" I'll partially close the garage.

Highs of 66*-71* daytime and lows ~38* at night... but the garage doesn't get cold until late at night. I'm getting my camera back tomorrow, so I'll get some pics of the current status and my makeshift paint booth.
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That sounds like it may be too cold! Read on the can for the recommended application temp. If you still want to try shooting in the that environment, I would at least warm the cans in some HOT water and place a heater on the object getting the paint before and after each spay session! Very important with clear not to shoot it in cold or damp conditions! It will go on cloudy and milky looking if it does not like the conditions! Be careful man, you don't want to F up the work you already have!
 
tooooo cold! can not shoot paint bud. the PMT (part metal temp) is too cold and the paint will not bond with it. got to get the parts in the house to get them to a good solid room PMT, then heat that garage, must be at LEAST 55 - 60 to lay paint, exp rattle can
 
Ah crap. I just saw the three replies below mine. I just shot the last color and first shot of clear.

The garage is closed and attached to the house. I'll see what it looks like in the morning. Sigh.. (yes, my camera is still at the in-laws... about 60 miles away. So no photos... yet)

According to Yahoo/weather.com (as of 11pm... but I painted at 8pm, when it was warmer.)
Feels Like: 61 °F
Humidity: 24 %


The paint says: 60*-90* @ <60% humidity For additional coats after 1 hour wait 7 days to cure. wait 3 hours until handling. (I guess I should read before I spray)

Update: after a couple hours

The upper and lower triple clamp looks good. Actually the upper looks great, but the lower is a crappy iron-looking piece that no matter what I do it will always look like it was an iron ingot with holes in it. Good enough for a lower anyway.

The swingarm... mostly good. A bit of "dusting" from the clearcoat but not much. It should sand out before the final clear coating process.

The frame.... shiny black, but with a dusty white layer on top. Uh that layer was dust, from the spray... but came off with a light wipe of a towel. I think I'm in the clear. (uh... sorry, bad pun)

On all pieces the clearcoat really made the gloss black "pop", but this is just the first layer of clear before the official clear coat process begins.

I think I will wait the proper curing time before I mess anything up by sanding non-cured paint.



Why does having patience take so long?
 
Sounding good generic! I know this method takes a lot of patience but it is worth the payoff, I promise! Sounds like you are doing a good job, try to get that camera back so we can see! Kept up the work and remember to kept your patience, it will reward you!
 
I have been a "rattle can" junkie for decades...... :eek: I change my paint jobs so often, it doesn't make sense to dump a bunch of $$$$ into a "job".

Here is a dupli-color job, everything painted (no decals) also with Duplicolor anodizing (candy) yellow over chevy orange engine enamel. The sun really brings out the yellow.

orangebi.jpg
 
Awesome work! If you've got any tips that haven't been gone over already, maybe you could drop some additional rattle-can knowledge on us!
 
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