Rear brake/ exhaust clash

[leprechaun_sean]

I've put the rearsets on my cj finally, but no matter how I route the drum lever it either doesn't snap back after being depressed (too bent) or it scrapes the exhaust slightly. I also slightly catch the exhaust with the brake pedal when I depress it. I've already filled the rearset out with as many washers as I dare but it's still ccatching by millimetres.


Anyone any clever tricks for these two problems?

 

[MJPriceisright]

looks dangerous.. where are you expecting the "spring back" to come from? stock brake mounts have a spring that helps bring the pedal back, you've eliminated that spring from the equation. now the only thing you have is a straight bar and the pivot inside the brake drum.

 

[leprechaun_sean]

At the position it's in in that photo it springs back fine using just the pivot, the drum brake rod just grates the exhaust and the angle of the pedal is quite high

 

[MJPriceisright]

not sure then, but I would reconsider the way its mounted to the rearset itself.. that's a pretty harsh angle. someone will put you in the right direction on here, I don't have enough rearset knowledge to put my two pennies in here...

 

[VonYinzer]

Get a piece of solid stainless rod, and bend it into a mild "s" shape. Thread the ends, attach new clevis at the rearset amd make it work. Sonetines ya have to bite the bullet and fab stuff. Also, you need to replace the return spring at the pedal. Running without it is dangerous and lazy.

 

[leprechaun_sean]

I hadn't thought of reattaching the return spring to be honest, first time I've done rearsets (as well as everything else cafe!!)

It seems to me that no matter if I get a new rod it would clash against the exhaust, just because the rearset is more to the right than the drum is, so they aren't in line with each other, am I right or is there a way round this?

 

[VonYinzer]

Look at rearset kits. The rod is never usually straight. Its bent to come straight off of the pedal and straight into the brake arm.

 

[J-Rod10]

Or, you could run a linkage rod forward into the stock brake shaft, utilizing the stock brake rod. Then, you are able to use the stock brake switch, along with the stock return spring.

 

[xb33bsa]

the way you have it is totally wrong and will never work right
you have serious bump brake action
you need the linkage rod to the original actuation shaft as mentioned above

 

[MJPriceisright]

Or, you could run a linkage rod forward into the stock brake shaft, utilizing the stock brake rod. Then, you are able to use the stock brake switch, along with the stock return spring.

what he said..

 

[Bert Jan]

I'm not even going to answer this. Tooooo many things are wrong with that setup.

But, because i'm a nice guy, ill do it anyway.

Rearsets are aftermarket parts. That means, they will not fit (most of the times) directly on your bike.
There are rearsets specifically made for certain types of bikes, but even then, its not always golden.

Your bike is not intended to be ridden with rearsets. Buying the cheapest ones you could find and bolting them up redneck-style does not automaticly make them fit. Expensive ones would not have helped here either. Simply no clearance for the lever, as it will hit the exhaust. You could get it to work but it would be a darn uncomfortable ride with the levers pointed up a bit more. You could have seen this coming before the rearsets were ordered...

In short, this will not work the proper way, even not with the stainless rod and such because the exhausts will be in the way. Putting the rearset even more outwards will solve that, but the angle of the drum will be even more dramatically.

Now pay attention;

Make sure the rod is connected to the rearset in a 90 degree angle. The bolt connecting the two is completely wearing out the hole in the rearset the way you bolted it. You'll notice the pivot will be smoother too. The rod will be kinda in an 'S' shape, with the ends being linear to eachother.
Get that stainless and hope for the best.

When all fails, you will have to weld up some dedicated rearset brackets, the way they're intended to be used by consumers.

If you can not figure this out yourself, put the OEM brake back on and sell it to the next hipster.

 

[Bert Jan]

Look at rearset kits. The rod is never usually straight. Its bent to come straight off of the pedal and straight into the brake arm.

that ^^

like this:
measurements are not important

 

[Bert Jan]

Oh and one more thing, make sure the brake actuator arm, (the one on the drum) is linear with the short rearset arm. that will give you best results.

 

[HerrDeacon]

Or, you could run a linkage rod forward into the stock brake shaft, utilizing the stock brake rod. Then, you are able to use the stock brake switch, along with the stock return spring.

This is the best, and cleanest looking, way of doing it. Linkage won't be affected by suspension travel either, like it will be in that setup.

 

[Bert Jan]

This is the best, and cleanest looking, way of doing it. Linkage won't be affected by suspension travel either, like it will be in that setup.

That would be nice. But then you would have to make an arm (instead of the arm your foot rests on) that connects to the rod. Easy if you have the tools and skills, but as TS asked this, i guess he's not really an engineer

 

[xb33bsa]

I'm not even going to answer this. Tooooo many things are wrong with that setup.

But, because i'm a nice guy, ill do it anyway.

Rearsets are aftermarket parts. That means, they will not fit (most of the times) directly on your bike.
There are rearsets specifically made for certain types of bikes, but even then, its not always golden.

Your bike is not intended to be ridden with rearsets. Buying the cheapest ones you could find and bolting them up redneck-style does not automaticly make them fit. Expensive ones would not have helped here either. Simply no clearance for the lever, as it will hit the exhaust. You could get it to work but it would be a darn uncomfortable ride with the levers pointed up a bit more. You could have seen this coming before the rearsets were ordered...

In short, this will not work the proper way, even not with the stainless rod and such because the exhausts will be in the way. Putting the rearset even more outwards will solve that, but the angle of the drum will be even more dramatically.

Now pay attention;

Make sure the rod is connected to the rearset in a 90 degree angle. The bolt connecting the two is completely wearing out the hole in the rearset the way you bolted it. You'll notice the pivot will be smoother too. The rod will be kinda in an 'S' shape, with the ends being linear to eachother.
Get that stainless and hope for the best.

When all fails, you will have to weld up some dedicated rearset brackets, the way they're intended to be used by consumers.

If you can not figure this out yourself, put the OEM brake back on and sell it to the next hipster.

the MAIN issue wiith that lashup is the severe bump-brake action which you don't even addrress,can you not figure that out ?
you can't run a rear-set brake rod DIRECTLY to the drum and have it work.period unless it is a hardtail ,or you have a specifically designed floating brake plate or a sheathed cable
the ONLY other way to do it right is just like j-rod10's kits STUDY that, educate yourself

 

[Bert Jan]

the MAIN issue wiith that lashup is the severe bump-brake action which you don't even addrress,can you not figure that out ?

You serious? I can figure out more then enough, but if i go talk about maths and mechanical engineering it tends to get boring fast.
If TS follows my tips and those of others, i guess he'll be allright.

 

[xb33bsa]

You serious? I can figure out more then enough, but if i go talk about maths and mechanical engineering it tends to get boring fast.
If TS follows my tips and those of others, i guess he'll be allright.

read my added edit to the above post,educate yourself,please

 

[Bert Jan]

read my added edit to the above post,educate yourself,please

I understand what you mean. The rearset will never work and i told the TS that. BUT, because all these fanboys want to use them anyway, i guessed it would not matter anyway as he's gonna use em anyway. I understand that when the angle of the swinger changes due to bumps etc, the angles of brake arms and such adjust aswell, giving you a sketchy non brakable brake that will brake (or will not) when you ride thru over a bump or hole. I understand the pivot of the brake and swinger need to be as close to eachother as possible to minimize that effect. Even braking changes the angle of the swingarm so yeah... it's a lost cause overall. I know and i knew. Boring and i guess TS is not waiting to be educated on math...

Non the less, i've seen a shitload of bikes on here and other sites wich are just straight to the drum and as he's gonna run em anyway, better give him the "safest' solution aye?

 

[VonYinzer]

Lets knock it off fellas... You want to have a pissing match, do it outside. Tim paid great money for these floors.