Rear brake/ exhaust clash

Bert Jan said:
I understand what you mean. The rearset will never work and i told the TS that. BUT, because all these fanboys want to use them anyway, i guessed it would not matter anyway as he's gonna use em anyway. I understand that when the angle of the swinger changes due to bumps etc, the angles of brake arms and such adjust aswell, giving you a sketchy non brakable brake that will brake (or will not) when you ride thru over a bump or hole. I understand the pivot of the brake and swinger need to be as close to eachother as possible to minimize that effect. Even braking changes the angle of the swingarm so yeah... it's a lost cause overall. I know and i knew. Boring and i guess TS is not waiting to be educated on math...

Non the less, i've seen a shitload of bikes on here and other sites wich are just straight to the drum and as he's gonna run em anyway, better give him the "safest' solution aye?
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ok, but i think we should tell them right off,its just a shit way to do it and it is not safe
they should know that with that lashup they cannot even have an up stop for the brake pedal(unless you have an extreme amount of pedal free travel but then whats the use?)
doing it properly on the brake side is really not much more complicated than on the shift side
 
xb33bsa said:
doing it properly on the brake side is really not much more complicated than on the shift side
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have you seen the pic attached with the openingpost? ;)
 
That does look dangerous but there is no reason to be a dick while you help correct the problem. if the guy didnt need help he wouldnt of asked
 
When bending a rod for that application the more the center section of the bend is the more it will flex every time pressure is applied to it. That looks like it is offset 3"-4", way too much IMO.
 
o1marc said:
When bending a rod for that application the more the center section of the bend is the more it will flex every time pressure is applied to it. That looks like it is offset 3"-4", way too much IMO.
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yes i agree but the whole setup is useless and unsafe with the severe bump brake action
thats why i thought the point was purely inmatestical
 
Alright, everyone seems to be getting a bit pissy over me not doing it right, so this applies to everyone that is.


I'm 19, this is the first time I've ever built or seriously modified a bike. I came on here as I know it's a shit set up, and I'm asking for help. Therefore I appreciate all the help given to me, but please don't call me a fanboy or a hipster, because let's be honest, I doubt you're the real fucking thing. I'm going to presume you are the same as me, liking older bikes modified into cafe racers. However, if it turns out you were actually riding a triton around London in the early 60s, rest assured you will receive my humblest apologies.

Now, I'm going to try taking the arm off the drum brake and putting it on upside down so it's at the top, and using a more "s" shaped bar to the rearset, and finding a way of using the stock return spring. Does anyone think this is a sensible way to proceed?
 
Calling people posers on here isn't going to do you any favors man.

Most are pretty skillful at what they do.

Find a way to run a rod straight forward to the stock brake shaft. It will use the stock brake rod, switch. And return spring.
 
I don't intent to man, I just don't appreciate being called one myself!

From there find a way of putting some linkage to the stock brake pedal?
 
Like this.

IMAG0402_zps5e71ef95.jpg
 
Ah that makes a lot more sense than what I was trying to be honest! Could I cut down the stock brake pedal and use that?
 
Sole these pics from dcc but they easily show what is meant by bringing the rear set rod to your stock brake lever then running the stock brake rod from that.
mavevehy.jpg


Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
 
leprechaun_sean said:
Alright, everyone seems to be getting a bit pissy over me not doing it right, so this applies to everyone that is.


I'm 19, this is the first time I've ever built or seriously modified a bike. I came on here as I know it's a shit set up, and I'm asking for help. Therefore I appreciate all the help given to me, but please don't call me a fanboy or a hipster, because let's be honest, I doubt you're the real fucking thing. I'm going to presume you are the same as me, liking older bikes modified into cafe racers. However, if it turns out you were actually riding a triton around London in the early 60s, rest assured you will receive my humblest apologies.

Now, I'm going to try taking the arm off the drum brake and putting it on upside down so it's at the top, and using a more "s" shaped bar to the rearset, and finding a way of using the stock return spring. Does anyone think this is a sensible way to proceed?
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First off it was the late sixties and it was Edinburgh :)

The guys are agreeing violently that many people do a crappy job on the rear brake arrangement and the vitriol wasn't really directed at you, but more of a general moan and groan.

The thing is that the rod has to be as straight as possible. The more bent it is, the harder it is to transfer effort from the pedal to the brake. As the rod straightens up, that's lost effort.

On the flip side, I rarely use a rear brake except in the rain. I often locked the rear brake on my race bike until I learned to pretend there was no rear brake. The rear doesn't do a lot of braking, so it doesn't need to be as solid as the front.

Flipping the lever up instead of down is a good idea to get clearance.
 
teazer said:
First off it was the late sixties and it was Edinburgh :)

The guys are agreeing violently that many people do a crappy job on the rear brake arrangement and the vitriol wasn't really directed at you, but more of a general moan and groan.

The thing is that the rod has to be as straight as possible. The more bent it is, the harder it is to transfer effort from the pedal to the brake. As the rod straightens up, that's lost effort.

On the flip side, I rarely use a rear brake except in the rain. I often locked the rear brake on my race bike until I learned to pretend there was no rear brake. The rear doesn't do a lot of braking, so it doesn't need to be as solid as the front.

Flipping the lever up instead of down is a good idea to get clearance.
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Yeah, long day at work probably made my reply a bit harsher than it should have been, but anyway.


Yeah, I've ridden bikes for a few years, front brakes much more important, but that's not to say I don't want to get the rear right!

The lever attached to the drum itself?
 
glad to hear you want to make it worthwhile ;D
that means either of the 2 ways in the above post pics using the stock pivot point either with the rod in tension or compression it really doesn't matter...
no amount of flipping the lever on the brake plate or trying to bend or use a straight rod will work, you will still have severe bump brake,if you just run a single rod to the brake plate lever
 
Fair enough, I'd rather find out that on here than on the road!! I'm pretty stuck for free time in the next few weeks but I'll try something new and post some pictures.

Where the rearset itself is mounted at the moment, does anyone have any nifty ideas about how to give it a bit more clearance? I'd rather a less obtrusive angle, but I'm out of ideas
 
xb33bsa said:
..............that means either of the 2 ways in the above post pics using the stock pivot point either with the rod in tension or compression it really doesn't matter...
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Not exactly :) Rod should never be in compression because if and when it bends you have no braking,

Lever attached to the Brake cam at the wheel can be reversed to point up. It's SLS arrangement and in all probability the cam is a simple flat piece with radiused sides and will work the same in either direction up or down (+/-)

The other issue is the front end of the brake rod needs to be close to the swingarm pivot. Modify the stock brake lever to operate on a stiff short actuating link from the rearset like the picture earlier.
 
teazer said:
Not exactly :) Rod should never be in compression because if and when it bends you have no braking,

Lever attached to the Brake cam at the wheel can be reversed to point up. It's SLS arrangement and in all probability the cam is a simple flat piece with radiused sides and will work the same in either direction up or down (+/-)

The other issue is the front end of the brake rod needs to be close to the swingarm pivot. Modify the stock brake lever to operate on a stiff short actuating link from the rearset like the picture earlier.
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yes,i am reffering to the shorter rod between the brake pedal and the original pivot point of the original brake pedal,when it is done right,like in the 2 pics,if that rod is stout enuf compression is fine
i am not going to even suggest that it can be done right the way he is trying,because it cant,and i think he is onto that ;)
 
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