The Suzuki Stinger

According to my friend "it works best once it has fermented a bit". He also recommends "don't go and hug your missus with the stink on your hands"
 
Ah no! I had my tank shape all planned out and then you had to show me this Stinger beauty!

Back to the drawing board.

-Deek
 
Ha, yeah everyone seems to really like the tank. I've actually got it displayed on a shelf inside at the moment.

The back wheel is pretty far gone, I found three broken spokes. So I took the lot off and plan to replace them all. While I'm at it I'll probably source a new rim. I'm not really a fan of too much chrome, but wheels are the exception. However, if I can find an aluminium rim, that would be even better.




Here's the hub 'before':
 
Awesome bike!

Im wrapping up a bike very similar to yours... mines a 69 Suzuki TC120 cat... It's almost identical to yours. Mine was in pieces when I got it but in a little better condition than yours.

Oh and by the way I am running premix on mine... works great and it's nice getting rid of the oil tank.

Check out my build thread in the Tracker section.
 
Steeze said:
Awesome bike!

Im wrapping up a bike very similar to yours... mines a 69 Suzuki TC120 cat... It's almost identical to yours. Mine was in pieces when I got it but in a little better condition than yours.

Oh and by the way I am running premix on mine... works great and it's nice getting rid of the oil tank.

Check out my build thread in the Tracker section.
Click to expand...

That's a sweet bike man. I've heard somewhere that the T125/90 was only made because of an excess number of TC120 frames. Probably just speculation, but they're the only two Suzuki's that have this frame design.
 
Steeze,
If you didn't remove oil slinger on the TC120, the big end will fail prematurely
Premix will lube piston just fine, but oil to main bearings and big ends is restricted
You did block off the oil bolt holes?
 
Nice, don't forget to chamfer all the port openings particularly the 'corners' where rings are forced back into cylinder and the top edge of exhaust port
Do a de-burr on top edge of cylinder, the sharp edge can cause a hot spot and pre-ignition plus failed head gaskets
 
Ok, thanks for the advice. I wasn't sure if the shop had chamfered them or not. There's some chamfering on most edges (probably left over chamfer from old bore) but some edges feel sharp. I think my flexible dremel attachment is small enough for the job. Then again it's probably safer to use a shortened needle file.

Is it best to chamfer ports with a bit of a radius, or is a 45 ish degree angle ok?
 
45 degree is easiest and works OK.
I'll have to look and see if I have a copy of manual or if there is a specific spec for top of exhaust port
I think its a minimum of 1/16"@60 degrees (maybe 2mm, it's 30 yrs since I played with 'Stinger')
The vertical sides are not so important, I just put a small radius on them, piston is moving close to it's max velocity when it 'hits' the top of ports though so they need to be 'good'
It's virtually stopped at bottom of ports so they don't need such a large (deep?) angle
Set it up so top of piston is dead level with bottom of port, may need thinner base gaskets to get it right (I've made them out of kitchen foil or the thicker 'pie tins' before now ;) )
 
I've got a copy of the manual, didn't even think to look in there. 1-1.5 mm up the bore face, and 0.3 to 0.5 across the port face for chamfers.
 
Ha ha ha ha ha,
I should have known you had manual, amazing what you can find in there if you know to look
Saves me a bit of work ;) 8)
 
NOS pistons from CMS, much better than the corroded looking ones on ebay. Got some rings and gaskets on the way. One thing I just realised I forgot to order is piston circlips. I bet I can find these locally though.

 
Painted up the barrels, heads, and side covers today. Top end is now assembled, but there is still a few little engine things to do yet. Those covers are just loosely attached, as I need to get new bolts for them, and fit the stator and points.



 
It's upside down, but, looks like a GT250 or T20 gasket?
The round hole is for kick start shaft
I would go to autoparts store and buy some gasket paper to make one
 
Made some gaskets for the clutch cover and carbs. I've spent the evening cleaning out the carbs and trying to get the slides to not stick. I'm anticipating this thing running very soon (I hope) I've got some spark plugs and a 6V battery on their way, plus a rear spoke set from overseas.






Random picture of engine in frame.
 
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