Tuning and Idling CL350

jtaylor1148

jtaylor1148

New Member
So with my CL350 it has always idled high. Compression, timing, and valves have all been checked. Carb is clean, and have been returned to semi stock, I think a 115 main. I am no expert and I was just curious at to what could be happening. I have the stock air filter, which may be dirty and I do not know the best ones to replace it with. And short muffler, BUT, they are baffled by a washer with a 5/8 inch hole drilled into it. So that is my setup, any ideas? Possible throttle cable issue?
 
Not sure on the jets. What carb body do you have? My 71 CL350 came with a 3D and has 70/105 main jets. See the chart below for the various models and jetting. Also, have you adjusted and routed your throttle cable properly so that it has enough slack to allow the slides to easily drop?

17295349446_9ca73c8af0_c.jpg
 
What happens when you adjust the idle speed screws?
If you're wondering about cable issues, check to see that it doesn't get pinched anywhere along the route.
 
yea the throttle cable is smoothly routed. but i noticed today, on the left cylinder I can burn my hand of the left muffler after just a minute or two of running it at idling at around 2200. on the right, is hot, would burn my hand after a few seconds of touching it. So, I guess my question is, what is the stable idling temperature? And I wonder if the left cylinder is running hot, or the right is running a bit cold.

Anyways, im on my way to go pick up a laser thermometer so I can measure it in degrees instead of pain. ;D
 
I was also reading earlier, could this be a problem with the butterfly valves on the inside of the carb and how much they are open at idle? I cannot remember what i set the gap to between the valve and carb body/venturi, but it is the same on both sides.
 
Sorry for the separate replies, im currently working on it now. Just noticed another issue, gas sometimes flows out of the overflow valve/jet and onto the crankcase? SO.... float height issue as well?
 
Float height or stuck valve, or possibly a cracked overflow tube. Take care of that before proceeding. a light rap with a rubber mallet can sometimes free up a stuck valve. If it's not consistently overflowing -- i.e. all the time -- it's like a sticking valve.

I'm guessing there is an ideal temperature for idling bikes, but it's not commonly used for adjustments. What's important is RPMs and fuel/air mixture in terms of carb settings. You also didn't answer the question of what happens when you turn the idle screw down -- will the bike stall if it's at less that 2200 RPMs? Or is the idle screw all the way adjusted and you're still idling at 2200 RPMs?

With dirty air filters you are likely going to have a hard time dialing it -- you should replace them. There are a few recent threads on here with folks who have used the stock filter housing and then used foam from a Uni filter to rebuild it, since stock filters are hard to find.

When you say that compression, timing, and valve adjustments have all been checked, by who? You? I'd double check timing. You also might be getting inconsistent spark on that cylinder for a variety of reasons -- arcing or bad connection in the spark plug wire, dirty points, bad coil, bad plug...

There's a ton of stuff to rule out, but get the air filters in good shape and check that float valve.
 
Okay, I will check out that air filter then thanks, and also, when you say stuck valve, do you mean one of the valves within the engine, or the carb, sorry for the questioning on that but I am not that good with all the vocab just yet. And also yea, I neglected to see what happens when I turn it all the way down. I will see what happens. And no, the bike does not stall when it gets below that, it just idles there, and revving the engine it slows back down, at a pretty slow rate. Thanks for the help man I appreciate it. Get back to you soon.
 
jtaylor1148 said:
Okay, I will check out that air filter then thanks, and also, when you say stuck valve, do you mean one of the valves within the engine, or the carb, sorry for the questioning on that but I am not that good with all the vocab just yet. And also yea, I neglected to see what happens when I turn it all the way down. I will see what happens. And no, the bike does not stall when it gets below that, it just idles there, and revving the engine it slows back down, at a pretty slow rate. Thanks for the help man I appreciate it. Get back to you soon.
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Stuck float valve. Your floats rise with the level of gas as it fills the bowl, and the tang on the floats pushes up on the float needle to shut off the gas flow.

So it idles high but eventually settles down to a lower RPM? You should also then check for air leaks around your carb boots and mounts.
 
No it does not settle back down, what I meant was that as I give it throttle, it returns back down to that high idle speed. Sorry for the confusion. Checked for leaks, there are none.
 
How does it react when you turn the idle adjustment screws to bring the idle down?
Are you unable to get a steady idle lower than 2200RPMs?
 
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