Very first Cafe build - 72' CB350 " Bloody Wrench"

[diesel450]

That is correct on the tube and tire thing you can run tubes in tubeless but not the other way around.

You can also tack weld a nut at the center of the dent then wire it up and pull the dent out gently rapping the edges of the dent with a hammer as you pull. it might pop right out and need only a lite finish skim of filler.

Let us know what you do!

 

[emcarthu]

my dunlops are tubeless, and I'm running them 100/90 and 120/90 on my 350.

 

[jay_kent]

could also fab up a tool with a rounded end and push that dent out. would need to be a thick piece of rod, bent to get past the hump with a dome on the end.

bike is coming along though

 

[pacaguy]

I know it's been quite some time since I've updated this build. As for tires, I'll be using the Shinko 712 series ( BikeBandit $ 49 a piece front 100/90/18 and rear 110/90/18 )

The tank situation has been resolved in that I used the Caswell epoxy liner
(http://www.caswellplating.com/aids/epoxygas.htm ) and it covered the tank like a dream !! forget Kreem or por15 this stuff is hard a diamond. As for the dents I've gotten to a point where I need pointers on the finishing touches....

Here's where I'm at, I've started the process but I'm coming up short on the perfect shaping. I've got on side with just a cover up on a badge ( sorry for the big pic, need to show the area well) :
2 pictures same area :

The Other side - covering the badge and filling the dent, I know I'm not even close to finishing the dent but still need the input.
Again 2 pics of the same area:

I want to do this right, I have the patience, I guess I'm in need of guidance at this point.

Once I have the tank ready for paint, I'll be up to the task of getting the bike wired for a Hopefull start up, then the fun really begins.

More to come. This may not be the fastest build, but then It would not be a project anymore.

 

[diesel450]

If you use filler more than a 1/8" deep in a spot it will eventually crack. I've had good results filling badge mounts with resin and then skimming with filler. It usually takes a couple of applications of filler to build it up right so that you can sand it down properly, as far as shaping goes you just have to keep sanding and looking and sanding and looking until you get it right. Sometimes you over do it and have to add a smudge more here or there. It helps to keep a drop light handy that you can move around to get light on it from different angles.

 

[HerrDeacon]

I use the light technique that diesel just mentioned. I also sometimes use a guide coat which works pretty good. Just spray a very light mist coat of a different colour and then when you sand it'll quickly point out the high and low spots. Just keep at it.

 

[pacaguy]

Thanks guys, I am using a double halogen light behind me to use as a "highlighter". surprisingly where the "moon-Crater" side is, that is where I'm filling in the Dent. I've been lucky so far to not come across any cracks.

I have been making sure to fold in the bondo and hardner when mixing and not to stir as to avoid any bubble problems down the road. It sounds like I may be going down the right path, I just need to continue with the light coats, let them dry, so a little light primer, let dry, sand where needed.

Hmm... ( wrench-ride- repeat ) sounds like bondo/ primer- sand - repeat ( lol).

At least I've got time on my hands to ge this done.

 

[pacaguy]

Making some head way on the bondo, the badge side is done, the dent/badge area is still under construction but by having a slight brain fart I was able to build up the dent are by using the blade starting from the top of the tank and motioning downward ( I was only going front to back and was not getting the results) making sure to feather past the dent area. That seemed to have done the trick. once I have completed the bonda are I'll post a few pics.

Meanwhile , when I'm letting the tank dry I've been polishing up the front and rear wheels. I have already usied the high grit sandpaper technique but I really wanted the shome shine to POP. using a soft cloth pad and white polish it seems to be doing the trick, not professional mind you but it looks a lot better than when I got it, Pics will come when I've completed the task.

 

[pacaguy]

Well I've made some head way on the bike, finished the tank ( see my post in the paint section ) Made a battery tray so I can install it under my seat, purchased some stock but better than my original shocks, cleaned up the bike some, cleaned up the carb's along with the petcock that had some nasty laquer gas build up on the reserve side. both are now installed. Currentley building a seat pan out of pvc sheet and a foam core pad for the RocCity Interceptor seat that I have. Found a nice brake light that will fit the flat spot on the back. I decided to go with a reasonable set of Shinko Tires series 712 for just over $100 ( for the pair) not including the tube or the strip tape that will be purchased sometime down the road. All the cables will be replaced with MotionPro cables and a single pull hand throttle also by MotionPro.
Dime City Cycles has updated their inventory with some simple yet effective perches, the brake side has the hole for the brake switch, I only wish they came in Black.
Just a few quick updated pics :

Why what's that? Yep it's a start to getting back into Ohio

My soon-to-be rearsets (1/4" thick 6061 aluminum )
So that's where I'm at now, again no big rush - I buy part's when I can make the stuff where I can.

 

[tdc57]

looking good..

 

[pacaguy]

Another update, a few weeks have passed, Me and a friend were ready to get the bike running after we had run the meter through it's paces to make sure every thing was in order and there were no broken wires and the stator was kicking back more than it was receiving ( it was ). Put the tank on ran the fuel hose's filled with gas, turn on the petcock...... leaked like the Titanic.

That night get on Fleabay get a new gasket, come home the follwoing Friday, install said gasket, still leaked (wtf ? ) . Found the the face plate on the petcock was slightley bent ( that will maker leak), bent back to a flat plate, made sure the wafer rings were in the right postion, Zero leak, Hooray. Install the tank and the hose, turn the key.... No power.... again POOP. No time to look it over, on to next week.

Totally stunned I went onto another Honda site specifiaclly for twins, posted the Question of the no power. A very knowlegable guy told me to call him, which I did today, 80 minutes later on the phone going over every detail of the electrical system with my meter and using my J.D. Battery for power, we dicovered that the original ( and only ) fuse was corrodid and was not letting the power get to the right points. Cutting the old fuse out, twisting two wires together ( a temp job only). Turned the key to the ON postion poured a little gas into the carbs, kicked it over ..... SHE"S ALIVE !!!!!

I will be getting a video together for Proof, I want the tank on and running the fuel hoses to keep it running. So Til next time...

 

[Hoosier Daddy]

So make sure you put in an inline fuse ASAP. Strongly recomend sliding on some heat shrink tube then soldering the wire connections then slip the heatshrink over the splice and heat it to seal...

 

[vdubjim]

looks great so far, what happened to the 'special' tank?

 

[pacaguy]

Well as for the "special tank" which was off a 350-4, it did'nt make it on due to an unfortunate deal that went sour. As for the new fuse, I found a blade style with a water proof cap, 12 gauge wire. I actually went with a crimp end connection and sealed any opening with liquid electrical tape with a shrink tube chaser, zero possiblity of corrosion.

Unfortunaltey I do not have the video proof ( the file size is to big.. I'll try to fix it) but I did manage to get the bike started after the fourth kick. That's the good news the bad new is that the rgiht side cylinder is spitting gas and not firing. I did a compression test and came out at 30 psi ( needs to be at 170) so one setp forward and 5 steps back as I'll need to pull the motor and open up the top end and see what needs to be fixed. Hey that's why they call it a project. Plus I be learning more about the bike bit by bit.

 

[sunnamp33]

I have a cb350 four tank for sale if you are interested. PM me.

 

[pacaguy]

sunnamp - thanks for the offer, though I've purchased a standard tank already, took the badges off, body filled to smooth everything out and have primered, just waiting for better weather to paint.

 

[pacaguy]

I cannot believe it's been this long since I've posted ( Sorry bout' that)

A quick update. I finally got the bike to run ( like Shizz ). Main problem, it's firing on only one cylinder ( 30 psi on the right cylinder). So I've pulled the motor , discovered that the cylinder walls are in good condition, the cylinders themselves are good, what seems to have been the culpret is one of the main head bolts located right next to the spark plug was only finger tight ( gee would that make it loose pressure - I THINK SO -) calming down now. I also discoverd that my stock cam is highly pitted on two of the lobes, got lucky and found a replacement on Fleabay, not perfect but looks alot better than mine.

So now I'm waiting on the cam, then ordering up new piston rings, a full motor gasket set, a new cam chain and new rollers ( mine look like cracked teeth), once I have those in hand I'll be honing out the cylinder sleeves to get any glazing out then hit it with the dingle ball tool for a good cross-hatching. All in all I'm glad that this happened as a motor that has been sitting for over 20 years needs a good going through.

Yes this is slow but I have limited time to work on the bike ( along with limited funds - never heard that before) but all in all it is a project.