Victoria! Zeke's CB175 Build

David Kiggins of DEK Performance sent us a 1.60 by 18 akront rim for Zeke's project. He has also sourced a honda 450 hub for us. (Teazer we do pay attention.) It is 40 spokes but we
Need to source a front ackront rim for it. This bike is turning into quite the parts collaboration and we thank you. David is also going to pass on his knowledge on lacing and suspension to Zeke. The 3rm bike keeps on giving. Tank from Junior Burrell, forks from Logan, and suspension from David! Thank you guys for more than just the parts!


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Hey guys I'm sorry that I haven't posted in a while. So I wanted to tell y'all about my crazy week. I have been researching shocks. My dad told me I might be able to get a sponsorship from works performance. So I called them and asked for sponsorship if I advertise them. They put me on the phone with hagon. Hagon wasn't gonna be able to talk to me till next week. So I just took measurements for a couple of days. Wednesday I searched ohlins USA marketing manager. I kept lookin and lookin. Then one website had the president of ohlins phone number. This all while my dad is asleep. So I was like what the heck lets call it. Sure enough the front office of ohlins answers a and she says " hi how can I help you". Well the front office lady sounded really tired. So I just said " can I talk to Doug shaw ( the president ) ". Beeeep " hello this is Doug how can I help you". At this moment I was jumping up and down just that he answered. I introduced myself and when I said "11 year old bike builder " he stops me and yelled "THATS AWESOME!!" I asked him if I could get sponsored if I'd advertise his company. I felt stupid saying that because everybody knows who they are. But any way he said yea sure I'll send you a Tshirt and hoodie and here's my email. Email me measurements and I'll hook you up with shocks. So I emailed him with a couple of pics and vids on lucky. The next day he said if he had measurements he'll give me shocks. I was wondering if this is a good deal ( hahaha). Do y'all think I should get 12.5", 12 1/4" or 13" shocks? What do y'all prefer on 175's?
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Texasstar said:
Hey guys I'm sorry that I haven't posted in a while. So I wanted to tell y'all about my crazy week. I have been researching shocks. My dad told me I might be able to get a sponsorship from works performance. So I called them and asked for sponsorship if I advertise them. They put me on the phone with hagon. Hagon wasn't gonna be able to talk to me till next week. So I just took measurements for a couple of days. Wednesday I searched ohlins USA marketing manager. I kept lookin and lookin. Then one website had the president of ohlins phone number. This all while my dad is asleep. So I was like what the heck lets call it. Sure enough the front office of ohlins answers a and she says " hi how can I help you". Well the front office lady sounded really tired. So I just said " can I talk to Doug shaw ( the president ) ". Beeeep " hello this is Doug how can I help you". At this moment I was jumping up and down just that he answered. I introduced myself and when I said "11 year old bike builder " he stops me and yelled "THATS AWESOME!!" I asked him if I could get sponsored if I'd advertise his company. I felt stupid saying that because everybody knows who they are. But any way he said yea sure I'll send you a Tshirt and hoodie and here's my email. Email me measurements and I'll hook you up with shocks. So I emailed him with a couple of pics and vids on lucky. The next day he said if he had measurements he'll give me shocks. I was wondering if this is a good deal ( hahaha). Do y'all think I should get 12.5", 12 1/4" or 13" shocks? What do y'all prefer on 175's?
a7eteby5.jpg



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Click to expand...

That's AMAZING!! Plus this conversation that's about to happen will help me out in my current situation...

and if you want to part with your redwings lemme know ;)
 
1sttimer said:
Eh got em mixed up again. Regardless way cool experience!
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yea I really think I will just rotate shocks between bikes. So that will be fun.


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So I worked out everything with ohlins. They are gonna make me shacks the measurements of 12 7/8" eye to clevis. But I was thinking of doing an exhaust similar to this one I found on eBay.
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Will this design give me any more power? How?


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It's just a megaphone with a baffle inside. You can make something similar yourself for a lot less.
 
Teazer this is dad asking. Will the Japanese cbr250rr dohc 19k revving fit in the cb175 frame? if we installed frame rails and gusset the swing arm will it handle the 42 hp? Also this frame is titled and would be Zeke's daily bike...or would it be a better fit in a 350 or 450 frame?


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No, No, and yes in that order.. :) It really needs to be in an RC162 replica chassis. You can get more than 42 out of those beasts but for a 250 they are amazing.
 
teazer said:
No, No, and yes in that order.. :) It really needs to be in an RC162 replica chassis. You can get more than 42 out of those beasts but for a 250 they are amazing.
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we will save that for another day...and hopefully find that beast one day.


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edajasez.jpg
yesterday I was at bejamans shop and he sold us a cb450 front hub for Victoria. He also taught us what a automatic center punch is and how to knurl metal tubing. For those of you that don't know what a automatic center punch is. It's a punch that marks the spot where you want to drill a hole in wood and metal. If you've ever seen a curl bar. That grip pattern on the bar. That bar is knurled. So knurling is basically pressing a pattern on to a metal bar. You would need a lathe to do it. Why? Because there is a knurling tool you would put on the lathe. Then when you set up what you want to knurl you turn on the lathe. Then while the bar is spinning the knurling tool will press on the bar to make a diamond pattern for grip.
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there is the comparison between the two wheels. The one with the tire is the black bomber. The 450 is 200mm while the 175 is 160mm.


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Do y'all have any recommendations for braking. This is gonna be the bike I ride back in forth to school. My dad said we learned how to get the bike going but know we need to learn how to stop. Benjaman told me that we need to arc'd the brake. Any way we would really appreciate it for any help.


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Drum brakes are actually more effective than disc brakes (of equal size) at lower speeds. Where they fall short is at higher speeds and repeated use. Drum brakes don't shed heat as well, and so when you're running hard (like on the race track), they start to "fade". Brake fade is caused by gases being cooked out of the contact surfaces. These gases form a minute layer between the hub and the pads and reduce your braking efficiency.

Additionally, drum brakes are often thought inferior due to the difficulty in tuning them to work as well as they can work. Arcing the pads is one piece of the puzzle. It's also worth investing some time to ensure that the inside of the hub is concentric and free of dirt, grime, and rust. Putting a light cross hatch on the pads is usually a good idea as well.

One those things have been done, the rest is in the adjustment. The system you have on the front is known as a dual leading shoe. This means you have two levers and that those levers actuate cams that are on the leading edge (the front edge of the shoe when taking into account the direction of rotation) of the brake shoe. This is one of the more effective configurations. It does require (more than) a bit of tweaking to get right, however. The angle of the levers and the length of the actuator rod all need to be balanced such that each shoe is putting equal pressure through the pad and against the hub. For optimal performance, adjustment every few thousand miles is recommended. Because the brake wear is gradual (and not self-adjusting like hydraulic brakes), it's extremely easy to get used to mechanical drum brakes that are going bad.
 
Sonreir said:
Drum brakes are actually more effective than disc brakes (of equal size) at lower speeds. Where they fall short is at higher speeds and repeated use. Drum brakes don't shed heat as well, and so when you're running hard (like on the race track), they start to "fade". Brake fade is caused by gases being cooked out of the contact surfaces. These gases form a minute layer between the hub and the pads and reduce your braking efficiency.

Additionally, drum brakes are often thought inferior due to the difficulty in tuning them to work as well as they can work. Arcing the pads is one piece of the puzzle. It's also worth investing some time to ensure that the inside of the hub is concentric and free of dirt, grime, and rust. Putting a light cross hatch on the pads is usually a good idea as well.

One those things have been done, the rest is in the adjustment. The system you have on the front is known as a dual leading shoe. This means you have two levers and that those levers actuate cams that are on the leading edge (the front edge of the shoe when taking into account the direction of rotation) of the brake shoe. This is one of the more effective configurations. It does require (more than) a bit of tweaking to get right, however. The angle of the levers and the length of the actuator rod all need to be balanced such that each shoe is putting equal pressure through the pad and against the hub. For optimal performance, adjustment every few thousand miles is recommended. Because the brake wear is gradual (and not self-adjusting like hydraulic brakes), it's extremely easy to get used to mechanical drum brakes that are going bad.
Click to expand...
Thanks Sonreir. I look at the brake and it looks like lobes are pushing the pads to create friction with the wheel. Oh and Benjaman told us about fading brakes. So if I were to ride on the street would I want disc or drum brakes? I don't know if you heard but Victoria is gonna be on cafe racer tv. We might take her to a track for the show. So would I want to put disc on so I don't fry my brakes.


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Zeke,
I don't think you are going to notice any fade with an oversized drum doing street riding. If you want to vent that drum, we could make some cooling vents with screens.
This is a beautiful example of someone else's work ("lackluster" on jj) on a Triumph rear drum.
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q248/leni5/DSC01874.jpg
 
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