VINDICATOR - 60's style Cafe Racer TR1

Hey thanx for the headsup Pat .............. found Dragon Red - it's a Vespa / Piaggio colour !! [ amongst others ].

Easily available in rattle cans or bulk here in the UK.

I keep on having flashbacks to my pal Rocket George - and his Red / Chrome Super Rocket.

XS rear hub brake plate rubbed down, etch primed and primed. Flat off with 800 paper tomorrow - and then MORE GOLDNESS !!!

I'll have another go at registering with the photo gizzmo on the site tomorrow.
 
Done ................ flatted the XS rear brake plate off with 600 > 800 and final coats of Gold. WELL pleased with the overall results.

The Satin Black is not quite as Satin [ !! ] as I had in my mind's eye .............. we'll have to see when the frame / swingarm come back and they're sprayed.

We have our first big Classic Bike show of the year [ Stafford ] this weekend - so an opportunity to see what's about. It's also one of the biggest Autojumbles of the year.
 
Peace and harmony reign once more in the Beachcomber household ............... :D

While Mrs.B was at work, I pulled the mirror off the wall, sprayed it Gold and remounted it.

8) 8) 8) 8)

 
Happy wife happy life. I try to knock one or 2 honey do's off the never ending list before taking on the bikes each weekend, sad part is sometimes they eat up the whole weekend the I never get to the bikes LOL.
 
Well my sense of achievement with the Gold brake plates didn't last ..................... fine spider cracks in the surface appeared after 3 days.

Rub down, 2 coats of primer and ........ what next ?????

I like the new H-D textured paint - but at £28 [ $50 ? ] a can - NFW.

I've got a spare damaged XS650 brake plate, so I'll experiment with that.

The problem with the rattle cans is that most now don't even tell you what paint formula is inside !!! "No CFCs" is the new important [ ?? ] mantra.
 
miffa said:
ask your local auto paint supplier to mix a aerosol of barcoat if you have no spray equipment,barcoat will act as a isolator it will go on over any type of paint and allow you to put any type of paint on it, its coloured yellow so will act as a great primer for gold
after flatting it back leave the plate to sit for 24 hrs before putting the barcoat on this will allow any exposed solvents to escape and harden as its probably this that's causing the crazing
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Thanx for the headsup Miffa ......... I do have spray equipment, but use so little these days it's cheaper to get the odd rattle cans ! We have a Jawel paint supplier near us, so that's the way to go Thanx again
 
Thanx again Miffa - rattle can Barcoat available off the shelf on e-bay £6.95 for a 400ml can.

While I was at it, I spotted a premium make Textured finish [ Black, Grey, Red ] rattle can for plastic bumper / mirror housing / dash refurbishment - at £5.50 I'll give that a try out on the spare brake plate.

Learned my lesson now re: rattle cans ..................... go back to the spray equipment for the bigger jobs ! Cellulose paint systems are still available in the UK - and that's what I was brought up with, so no brainer.

Jeez ...........how muckin futch ????????????? Nearly £100 for 5 litres of high build and 5 litres of Standard thinners.

In the down time - lower yokes now finished in Satin Black.
 
ANyone used twin VM38 Mikunis on 980 / 1100 ????? I'm after base settings for jets, needle etc.

Any help gratefully recieved.
 
Wow ....... the st.st Siamese exhaust [ Vincent 'ish ] is nearly complete !

We're working on a parallel project at the moment and the pipes have just been prototyped on the mule.

We manage to do it with NO additional joins / welds - other than the slip joint from the rear head - which will be covered by a heat shield.

It's in 44mm tube throughout, which was a bitch to get the rear head bend - but we found someone who could do it.

Pix later when I can release details of the new [ commercial ] project.

Barcoat rattle can arriving on Monday. Brake plates have been flatted AGAIN [ 4th time ! ] and this will be it as far as the Gold finish !

I'm also starting in on the AJS 7R style tank again - I've seen TOO many bikes recently with the Metisse tank !

At least I can take my own advice [ !! ;) ] and create something different. I've decided that the tank IS too deep and meeds trimming down - maybe an inch off the bottom, with a larger kick up at the back - more 7R 'ish in fact ! Still a bit of patternmaking where I wasn't really happy about the "sharp" edges - then I think it's GTG.

We have just completed another tank style for the new project - again as a tank cover, so we are happy with the concept and allows whatever shape you want - given the size of the actual tank it's covering. I've switched to a 750 Cruiser tank as it's considerably smaller and will allow me to trim down my buck and STILL cover the "tank".
 
BLACK IS THE NEW GOLD ..................................... ::)

yep, put a coat of the "Pro Body P962" 1K isolator on the XS brake plate for a trial run - THE ISOLATOR REACTED WITH THE CAREFULLY FLATTED OUT PRIMER !!!!

WARNING - DON'T BE TEMPTED TO BUY THIS SHITE, SORRY - EXPENSIVE SHITE.

This is now beyond a joke - so ten minutes later .... Black is the new Gold.

 
miffa said:
never heard of or used "Pro Body P962" 1K isolator the barcoat i suggested using was a breakwells barcoat which is a quick drying yellow oxide isolator. available in a aerosol pre mix from a proper auto paint supplier
we have been using it for years even on greasy engine blocks before final finish and have never had any type of reaction ,just one light coat will high build to approximately 15-25 microns tech says don't sand go straight to primer, but we have used the barcoat as a primer depending on top coat colour and sanded it back ensuring we don't go through the layer .

is the black pictured out of the bumper and trim paint can if so thats designed to cover plastics it as elasticity to allow for flex never put that on metal please let us know of its durability
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Miffa - the product I bought was listed as the same Isolator properties as Breakwell - Yellow, quick drying, light coat, don't sand through, etc. etc.

I've used Isolator products throughout my 45+ years of designing and manufacturing replica sports cars and speciality vehicles. The Isolator has always done what it says on the tin - until now.

OK, in the past I used bulk wet paint and not rattle cans - but the procedure is the same.

I came accross the Bumper textured paint 10 years ago, and as an experiment sprayed the tin ware on a Type 4 VW engine I slotted into a 550 Porsche Spyder replica. Last time I saw the car [ 2 years ago ] it was a fresh as the day I painted it. 4 years ago I did the valve covers on my Wife's MR2 roadster - when we sold the car a year ago, the valve covers were still pristine with no lifting or marking of the textured paint.

This IS a bit of a leap of faith ..... but I've done THAT in the past many times !

I'll let you know how it stands up.
 
I finally tracked down a 2 pack textured finish that we used years ago ............. nothing to do with automotive paint finishes. It is bulletproof and is suitable for engine use [ ie heat ] and resistant to petrol, oil, etc.

We still have a car engine that was sprayed in this finish and left outside in the elements for 10 years or so - still perfect.

I just have to persuade them to sell it to me as it is for licensed users only !
 
I ordered "The Vindicator" decals today. In the style of the Vincent / Egli-Vincent originals. Best get a tank finished then !!

Then I thought - am I being too anal about all this Sixties stuff ???????? Too late to change now I guess

 
I couldn't quite get my head around "the Vindicator" - my old English tutor would have been spinning in his grave - so I changed it to "The Vindication" ......... pedantic - me !!!!!!!!!!! ::)
 
BC. the Vindictor works well as the bike is the one that vindicates your decisions. Vindication works better without the "the", but then won't be such an accurate replication of the original.

It's the little details that make a bike really come together, but sometimes we get sidetracked.

Time to get a tank done to put them on. Still going G50 replica or did I miss the later design committee report?

The problem we run into with this sort of build is that we usually have at least two different bikes/looks we are going for and lots of details from others and sometimes the only way around it is to build different versions, and we all know how that ends up.

My Phat Trakka GT750 is morphing into a hybrid that looks almost like a cafe racer now because I need low bars to drag race it comfortably and I already have 2 GT750 cafe racer projects in the shop and no time for any of them.
 
teazer said:
BC. the Vindictor works well as the bike is the one that vindicates your decisions. Vindication works better without the "the", but then won't be such an accurate replication of the original.

It's the little details that make a bike really come together, but sometimes we get sidetracked.

Time to get a tank done to put them on. Still going G50 replica or did I miss the later design committee report?

The problem we run into with this sort of build is that we usually have at least two different bikes/looks we are going for and lots of details from others and sometimes the only way around it is to build different versions, and we all know how that ends up.

My Phat Trakka GT750 is morphing into a hybrid that looks almost like a cafe racer now because I need low bars to drag race it comfortably and I already have 2 GT750 cafe racer projects in the shop and no time for any of them.
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Teazer thanx for that ..... difficult when you're at home with no build buddies to discuss things !

MrsB is very supportive [ in a general way ] of all my personal projects - but whenever I run anything by her it's always - "whatever you think is best".

You're quite right of course - and that's the very reason I came up with "The Vindicator" in the first place [ plus the Vincent homage ]. I guess it's been rummaging around for too long now. You're quite right - time to get off the pot.

I've been back and forth over the tank shape ...... the Metisse was "quite" close to what I had in mind, and the closer was the fact it was aluminium [ and relatively cheap ]. HOWEVER - there's a lot of work gone into the 7R 'ish tank I've been patternmaking.

My pal AC has been sooooo busy [ with Cars ] that he hasn't really had time to devote to prepping and taking moulds for me.

When it's a freebie, you can't really push these things ! Then comes another - "however" ........... we have been working together on another project, this time for commercial purposes [ another late 60's influenced Cafe Racer - details not far off ] AND part of that involved designing a suitable tank as a cover. Not, in the style I want [ but equally iconic ], but he then has no excuse not to do mine ! He has to get two D Type Jag reps out of the way that have shipping deadlines to go to Oz / Canada - then it's ketchup on the tank and other projects.

You have just convinced me I was "right" first time around - back to "The Vindicator" - thanx Teazer.
 
Hoosier Daddy said:
34 pages and this isn't popping up in my commented posts section?
How did I let this slip past? ???
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yes, be quick ...... there's an ugly rumour it will be finished THIS year !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Frame clean up completed - just mild de-cluttering. The swingarm has been modified with the wheel axle mounting elongated 1 1/2" FURTHER FORWARD to allow a shorter wheelbase.

Good news on the shotblast, p/c front .. local guy £15 [ $22 ?] to blast frame and s/arm - £35 more for p/c.

The siamese exhaust [ Vincent 'esque ] we have developed for the Virago project, will ALSO fit the TR1 - result.

The black textured paint I trialled on the brake plates has dried to an excellent and very hard finish - I'm confident enough to try it out on one of the engines.
 
This was the Mk2 [ or was it 3 ? ], we're now on the production version which has the top bend a little flatter and the front pipe runs straight to the exit and the back pipe now joins it from the top.

There'll be a small heat shield over the rear slip joint. Exits in purpose made stainless Goldie silencer.

 
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