What would you guys say this 75' 360 would be worth?

here, start reading up on this so you understand for yourself
http://cx500forum.com/forum/cx-customization-modifications/14114-pods-plug-atmospheric-ports.html
 
Kamn said:
here, start reading up on this so you understand for yourself
http://cx500forum.com/forum/cx-customization-modifications/14114-pods-plug-atmospheric-ports.html
Click to expand...
Ahh ok saving me the trouble of having pods that cover the ports mentioned in the thread, Thanks! I wonder if these uni's cover up said port?

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Just wanna thank you guys for dealing with a rookie like myself, I really appreciate all the help and useful info! Don't wanna make a mistake and buy a bike that is going to require a million hours of rebuilding and fixing. Just trying to get the best information to make the best judgement call on what to buy! Also I forgot to mention is has almost 56,000 original miles

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sixmilsteve said:
They should have given you $25 for taking it.

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Click to expand...
If you're talking about my post, the motor has minty fresh compression and is in brilliant shape. Just oxidized aluminum from sitting outside. It's worth the trouble for that alone. I've already converted the rims to aluminum, the front end to CB750 and the swinger to Pro Link, so none of that was important anyway.
 
Biggest issue with CX, it's just about impossible to get a decent gear-change for it if you move footrests to where they should be because the shaft comes out of motor rearwards.
There are some creative multi link, ball joint things out there but pretty sure you have to design your own
In my experience, unless the motor was kept over 6,000rpm most of the time, cam chain and tensioners only last around 18,000 miles before something expensive breaks
Luckily, it isn't a major job to pull motor and remove rear cover. (about 2~3 hrs after you've done a few)
Do water-pump seal while your in there
 
crazypj said:
Biggest issue with CX, it's just about impossible to get a decent gear-change for it if you move footrests to where they should be because the shaft comes out of motor rearwards.
There are some creative multi link, ball joint things out there but pretty sure you have to design your own
In my experience, unless the motor was kept over 6,000rpm most of the time, cam chain and tensioners only last around 18,000 miles before something expensive breaks
Luckily, it isn't a major job to pull motor and remove rear cover. (about 2~3 hrs after you've done a few)
Do water-pump seal while your in there
Click to expand...
So technically speaking a bike with almost 60k on it and no cam chain service ..prolly would have some serious issues?
 
Generally the motor is good for over 100,000 miles
Problems happen when they are treated 'gently' as though they were a 4500rpm Harley
HD has the same problem with twin cam motors that Honda had in 1978 when CX started snapping bits off crankcase internals
The load reversals of a V-twin plus the valve springs turning cam wrong direction at low rpm make the cam chain shoot back and fore. and destroy stuff
That's why I say keeping them over 6000rpm is a good thing.
All a CX needs is regular oil changes (around 3,000 not 6,000 Honda specified) and a good thrashing to last for 150,000+ miles (plus change water-pump seal when it fails ;D )
With a valve cover off (two bolts) and spark plugs removed, you can put it in top gear then rotate motor by using back wheel. There is quite a lot of slop in the shaft gears but
with the inspection cover/breather at top right rear of crankcase removed, it's possible to hear a bad tensioner slapping around (plus you can watch valve operation)
It really isn't a major job to fit a new chain and tensioner, the motor comes out real easyas there isn't much in the way to prevent it.
You don't remove radiator or any of the mounting brackets (does need draining though for when you remove coolant pipes and rear cover)
 
Well I think I found a little nicer of a starter bike to my first project it's an 82 cx500 with 14k miles ..no frame chopping or anything serious has been messed with yet. So I'm prolly gonna go with that one, plus it's a runner and it's had valves already adjusted,carbs have been rebuilt and forks have been rebuilt . Sounds alot nicer than the other CX I was looking at.
 
crazypj said:
Biggest issue with CX, it's just about impossible to get a decent gear-change for it if you move footrests to where they should be because the shaft comes out of motor rearwards.
There are some creative multi link, ball joint things out there but pretty sure you have to design your own
In my experience, unless the motor was kept over 6,000rpm most of the time, cam chain and tensioners only last around 18,000 miles before something expensive breaks
Luckily, it isn't a major job to pull motor and remove rear cover. (about 2~3 hrs after you've done a few)
Do water-pump seal while your in there
Click to expand...


J-rod has developed rear sets for the CX's and Gl's
Cam chain issues stem from lack of proper adjustment at regular intervals.....not rpm's . Chain gets sloppy and starts pounding the guides and stretching itself further. There are CX owners that get up to 30,000 miles on a chain. Guides break from the chains slapping them but they are now available from David Silver spares, so its not trying to hunt down a unicorn anymore.

With the 82 model CX that you are looking at, you will be getting a solid ignition system and better forks on the CX.....they are 35mm fork tubes and I have used Racetech linear springs and emulators to make them a very sound front end.
If you want to make it get up and boogy then get a set of Mikuni's from a member called CXMAN
 
Kamn said:
J-rod has developed rear sets for the CX's and Gl's
Cam chain issues stem from lack of proper adjustment at regular intervals.....not rpm's . Chain gets sloppy and starts pounding the guides and stretching itself further. There are CX owners that get up to 30,000 miles on a chain. Guides break from the chains slapping them but they are now available from David Silver spares, so its not trying to hunt down a unicorn anymore.

With the 82 model CX that you are looking at, you will be getting a solid ignition system and better forks on the CX.....they are 35mm fork tubes and I have used Racetech linear springs and emulators to make them a very sound front end.
If you want to make it get up and boogy then get a set of Mikuni's from a member called CXMAN
Click to expand...
Thanks for the tip ..I'll prolly end up doing thay eventually whenever I get into tare down stage , should need a rejet tho since he has pods on it, something I could do myself or would you recommend taking it somewhere?
 
You can rejet the carbs yourself with basic hand tools. Bit of a trial and error if you don't do your homework though. I believe CXMan here has laid out the numbers pretty accurately though in other threads
 
the go to is 90/120 for jetting with pods and removing the h-box in the exhaust
 
VonYinzer said:
You can rejet the carbs yourself with basic hand tools. Bit of a trial and error if you don't do your homework though. I believe CXMan here has laid out the numbers pretty accurately though in other threads
Click to expand...
Will look into cxmans guides and everything once I get my bike
 
Kamn said:
J-rod has developed rear sets for the CX's and Gl's
Cam chain issues stem from lack of proper adjustment at regular intervals.....not rpm's . Chain gets sloppy and starts pounding the guides and stretching itself further. There are CX owners that get up to 30,000 miles on a chain. Guides break from the chains slapping them but they are now available from David Silver spares, so its not trying to hunt down a unicorn anymore.
Click to expand...

On some bikes, even the last automatic tensioner had issues and less than 20,000 miles before 'going off' (probably the 5th or 6th modification even though 'officially' there were only 3 mods)
The issue is load reversal due to constant low rpm operation.
 
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