datadavid said:Nice tickover, sounds steady as a rock!
I cant get mine to idle that nice.. and I've really tried!
Are you running a collector pipe with that system or are they independent?
I'm thinking about making a 3-3 system but i dont want to lose any power, so probably will be 3-1-3..
Thats awesome.. been screwing around with mine for 2 years now and never got that rock steady even low rpm idle. Checked everything, valve clearance, cleaned them out a few times, fiddling with idle mixture for half an eternity.. you must have a knack for carbs, hats off!treitz said:Thanks man! It pretty much fired right up. Quick carb sync and she was doing pretty good.
Running the Mikuni carbs with UNI foam filters. Exhaust is actually 3-3 on mine. Two on the right are stacked. We'll see how the power feels when I get it on the road. In the middle of moving from one state to another right now, and all I need is my tank back, and one little bracket fabbed up and she'll be road worthy.
treitz said:Having a nightmare of a time bleeding the brakes on this thing. I've started a thread "brake bleeding for dummies" with 3 pages of content. Tried every recommendation and I cannot get these brakes to bleed. Here is my latest response:
Alright guys. I realize I've been MIA, just moved from Idaho to Oregon. Bike is unloaded so I have some time to work on it now.
I don't know what the hell is wrong, but I CANNOT get these brakes to bleed. I got the master to bench sync via the finger over the hole technique. Hooked everything back up, and nothing. I tried sucking on the hose, and all I'm getting is air. Not moving any fluid which makes me think there is an air leak of some kind, somewhere... but where?
On the flip side, jumped to the rear brake to see if I'd have better luck and with the "sucking" test I got nothing. No air, no fluid.
This is driving me crazy.
If anyone else here has ideas... please share.
Maritime said:I bought a large syringe and used it to reverse bleed from the caliper up buy filling it, opening bleed valve, squeezing in fluid and closing valve, repeat until fluid made it to the master.
well the condition of the master cylinder has got to be good , but as far as old or new there is no difference the mechanicals workings of them are identical it really is that easy if you fully bleed the master cylinder firstdatadavid said:Great that you dont have to mess with old crap! Happy for you!
Of course, the difference lies in the amount of crud..xb33bsa said:well the condition of the master cylinder has got to be good , but as far as old or new there is no difference the mechanicals workings of them are identical it really is that easy if you fully bleed the master cylinder first
xb33bsa said:once you bleed the master (less than a minute) it is a simple less than 3 minute process flushing out the caliper and finishing the job .the key is bleeding the master the only "special"tool you need is yer fucking thumb and a bunch of rags