Yes another but all mine 75 CB360 Build

the aluminum bodies will also look good beadblaset and clear coated :) kind of a matt cast look is what you get if you use satan clear
unless you weigh 280+ those springs on those konis are too stiff anyway,you need lighter springs ...in that case what i do is refill them with 3wt shock oil which is light enough to back off the damping rate a smidge
 
Ooooooo I like the bead blast idea!
Springs would definitely be too stiff. I only weigh in at a whopping 150. I just don't have the funds to "spring" on this deal at this time. I'll have to wait.
I think in the meantime I'll fab up a "mock shock" to check for clearance.
 
Toyotacrawler said:
Thanks man! How's your 360 doing?

Ugh. Running. I've taken it for a few rides. Need to bleed front brakes (or possibly rebuild master cylinder) and clean up the wiring harness
 
plagrone said:
Ugh. Running. I've taken it for a few rides. Need to bleed front brakes (or possibly rebuild master cylinder) and clean up the wiring harness
Well I'm glad you've got a running bike! You'll get it tweaked just right eventually. At least its running and rideable.
 
Maxd22 said:
If you end up wanting cl360 pipes I have some in decent shape id sell ya
I've always liked that look. Can't do anything right now but I'd love to see some pics of the ones you have
 
Toyotacrawler said:
Ooooooo I like the bead blast idea!
Springs would definitely be too stiff. I only weigh in at a whopping 150. I just don't have the funds to "spring" on this deal at this time. I'll have to wait.
I think in the meantime I'll fab up a "mock shock" to check for clearance.

I haven't tried it but see if the stock Honda springs are large enough diameter to fit the Koni bodies?
 
If I manage to get some koni's I will try this. Thanks for the idea :) I just remembered I need to get with you about a tach plug
 
I posted this first on MHdesign's build thread.....

OK. I saw this online and it just might work to get the bushings out. Take a 1/2" - 13 Self aligning tap, tap the bushing all the way down till you bottom out. Then take a 1/2"- 13 piece of all-thread grind the threads off of the end about a 1/2". Then screw the all-thread into the bushing. Put a couple of bolts on the all thread and tighten. This should pull the bushing out. I haven't tried it yet but I don't like the idea of pushing against the hub. I'm going to sandwich a piece of wood or metal between the two bolts and knock the hell out of it upward. I'll be heating the area as well with a butane torch. I'm not going to grind off 1/2" of the threads either. In the video I saw the guy did this so he wouldn't muck up the hub as the all-thread pushed against it. I won't be screwing the thread in that far.

Of course, if you are having to re-use the bushings this will not help you but hopefully you found some new ones online. I found some old stock at my local Honda shop.


FIRST TEST OF THIS METHOD

So using wood and knocking the hell out of it didn't work.
aac1f6db754df601bdd9e5c921d11837.jpg


So I ground off some threads and started cranking down
bd1a918f4e0dff395e81a28b2098f7ca.jpg

1ba027d889d43c4e11fead2297eb3787.jpg


As you can see no dice. Its just pulling the bushing apart. These damn things refuse to let go of their beloved hub. I'm about to throw in the towel on removing these mother @##&%$#
 
Can you access them from the inside of the hub? That's how I got mine out of my Yamaha hub. Cut up a socket to fit in the small space available, one push with the arbor press and they were out.
 
no grease gun needed , but the effect is the same as if you could smack it from the backside
all you need is a rod that fits the hole very good, snug is even preferable
fill the cavity with grease plunge the rod in a few times to expell air
then put the rod in and hit it with the hammer you cannot compress a fluid so the pressure apllied is very direct, trying to force out the offending objekt
\just before you finally smack it put a lil heat with da torch where the thin cross section is
 
OK thanks! I'll give it a go. I might have a rod in the garage that will work. I wonder if I can get a tight seal on the one I tapped....if not I might have to drill the bastard out.
 
the thresded rod is not ideal it has a pathway(the threads) for some grease to escape... if you buy a bolt that size and cut off the threads it may do the trick nicely
 
Right. I have some round bar stock that I used as handles for a grill I built. It might just be the right diameter. If it's 1/2" that should do it. I think the hole is a shade under .5" Something like .468"
 
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