2x stroke street tracker - project coming together slowly.
- Thread starter NoRiders
- Start date
NoRiders
Over 1,000 Posts
NoRiders
Over 1,000 Posts
Finally, the correct metal arrived, I'd ordered the wrong size for the job of making the U bracket that I'd intended to use at the caliper mount end of the brake torque arm.
I cut n drill later, with a bit of bench sanding and tweaking saw the torque arm coming together as I'd planned.....very satisfying.
The bones of it is M10 threading, into a female M10 rose joint at the swingarm end with a thin-wall 10mm i'd steel tube to give it a better look than bare threading..
The rear mount is shaped 30x50mm 3m box section and bolted through the caliper mount using a longer than stock M8 bolt straight out the other side with a lock nut....should hold it correctly I reckon.
Anyone think differently? I'd welcome any critique.
I cut n drill later, with a bit of bench sanding and tweaking saw the torque arm coming together as I'd planned.....very satisfying.
The bones of it is M10 threading, into a female M10 rose joint at the swingarm end with a thin-wall 10mm i'd steel tube to give it a better look than bare threading..
The rear mount is shaped 30x50mm 3m box section and bolted through the caliper mount using a longer than stock M8 bolt straight out the other side with a lock nut....should hold it correctly I reckon.
Anyone think differently? I'd welcome any critique.
NoRiders
Over 1,000 Posts
Small steps, small tags....
Lower rear engine mount fabbed up.....two ears will be welded to a steel tube sleeve that sits between the frame rails on a one piece threaded bar that will also hold both footpegs and brake lever.
Just needs the tags shaping up and welding.
So happy to use my hobby pillar drill and step drill bits to drill out the 14 & 10 mm holes in the 3mm steel.
Just the front lower to make now and remake the front upper in steel.
Lower rear engine mount fabbed up.....two ears will be welded to a steel tube sleeve that sits between the frame rails on a one piece threaded bar that will also hold both footpegs and brake lever.
Just needs the tags shaping up and welding.
So happy to use my hobby pillar drill and step drill bits to drill out the 14 & 10 mm holes in the 3mm steel.
Just the front lower to make now and remake the front upper in steel.
NoRiders
Over 1,000 Posts
Thanx.
NoRiders
Over 1,000 Posts
Had a productive afternoon in the garage...fashioned a lower forward engine mount....thought I record the process.
The idea was to have two almost vertical tags welded to a steel tube that sleeves M10 threading across the front lower frame, utilising factory mounts that are strong. To form the two tags I thought to use 50x100mm box section and cut it into a U, then bore two holes down low to take the 14mm o/d steel tube...so set about it with my 1mm cutting disc on my angle grinder...
It worked out I needed approx 95mm long tags on the U...
A quick turn on the bench sander had the rough edges and burrs off.
So from this..
... using my hobby pillar drill, loaded with a step drill, I bored two 14mm and two 10mm holes.
I wanted it to fit like this, with a quick spread and bend the tags sit snug against the mounting on the engine case....the U will be welded to the sleeve.
And install like this. (ignore the cracked mount, the GT engine is in one piece)
Just needs a quick MIGging and a paint. I'm considering slotting in a piece of box section across the tags to brace it a bit more....looks a bit spindly....it's all good though
I only have rudimentary tooling to hand, hobby pillar drill, bench sander and bench wirewheel and these hand tools...
Moving forward....
The idea was to have two almost vertical tags welded to a steel tube that sleeves M10 threading across the front lower frame, utilising factory mounts that are strong. To form the two tags I thought to use 50x100mm box section and cut it into a U, then bore two holes down low to take the 14mm o/d steel tube...so set about it with my 1mm cutting disc on my angle grinder...
It worked out I needed approx 95mm long tags on the U...
A quick turn on the bench sander had the rough edges and burrs off.
So from this..
... using my hobby pillar drill, loaded with a step drill, I bored two 14mm and two 10mm holes.
I wanted it to fit like this, with a quick spread and bend the tags sit snug against the mounting on the engine case....the U will be welded to the sleeve.
And install like this. (ignore the cracked mount, the GT engine is in one piece)
Just needs a quick MIGging and a paint. I'm considering slotting in a piece of box section across the tags to brace it a bit more....looks a bit spindly....it's all good though
I only have rudimentary tooling to hand, hobby pillar drill, bench sander and bench wirewheel and these hand tools...
Moving forward....
NoRiders
Over 1,000 Posts
Found some time after dinner to sort through some of my stash, looking for a braided brake line long enough to reach the front caliper.....and....viola!!
Found one of the screw to union type, off a pair of Brembos I won't be using, and it fits perfectly.
Just threw the caliper together as I fitted the union. Needs cleaning and painting, then it'll bolt straight on.
I think I've got an idea for a fork brace and guard mount.....more anon
Found one of the screw to union type, off a pair of Brembos I won't be using, and it fits perfectly.
Just threw the caliper together as I fitted the union. Needs cleaning and painting, then it'll bolt straight on.
I think I've got an idea for a fork brace and guard mount.....more anon
NoRiders
Over 1,000 Posts
Cosmetics today
While struggling with 1" wide masking tape, I remembered an old skool trick...to slice it down to 1/4" strips which are easier to bend when following a curve.
Not having 1/4" masking tape, I laid out a 9" strip of 1" on my worksurface and sliced it down with a modelling knife. The thinner strips are much easier to shape and work.
4-5 coats of Hammerite Smoothrite Gold met turned out OK. The disc is within wear minimums and ceaned up OK, including the floating bobbins, so I'll use it for now.
There is a bit of masking bleed which will be knocked off by the pads.
I thought I'd ordered pads, but according to my ebay purchase history, I hadn't.
While struggling with 1" wide masking tape, I remembered an old skool trick...to slice it down to 1/4" strips which are easier to bend when following a curve.
Not having 1/4" masking tape, I laid out a 9" strip of 1" on my worksurface and sliced it down with a modelling knife. The thinner strips are much easier to shape and work.
4-5 coats of Hammerite Smoothrite Gold met turned out OK. The disc is within wear minimums and ceaned up OK, including the floating bobbins, so I'll use it for now.
There is a bit of masking bleed which will be knocked off by the pads.
I thought I'd ordered pads, but according to my ebay purchase history, I hadn't.
NoRiders
Over 1,000 Posts
Ha..believe me when I say I searched high n low for them.... :/
NoRiders
Over 1,000 Posts
Still awaiting confirmation from an ebay seller that the Brembo pad sets he's offering are actually the blue in his images.....he'll return my message to him when he checks.....tick follows tock!
In other news, I've also ordered an oil tank, from an ebay seller, been watching these and they aren't coming down in prices, so for £26 ($30) and with a bit of jiggery pokery this should fit inside the redundant 400/4 air filter housing in the void...perfect. 1ltr capacity should hold enough 2T oil to be useful range and the various unions means I can have a gravity feed to the oil pump and sight level poking through the air pass to carb outlet.....if it works out it'll look neat I hope.
In other news, I've also ordered an oil tank, from an ebay seller, been watching these and they aren't coming down in prices, so for £26 ($30) and with a bit of jiggery pokery this should fit inside the redundant 400/4 air filter housing in the void...perfect. 1ltr capacity should hold enough 2T oil to be useful range and the various unions means I can have a gravity feed to the oil pump and sight level poking through the air pass to carb outlet.....if it works out it'll look neat I hope.
NoRiders
Over 1,000 Posts
The conundrum that was the rear brake master cylinder, type, style, position and operation has finally come together. Lots n lots of thunking and I drummed up this cobbled together hotch potch of parts...
I spotted this reverse crank operation and it instantly gave me the option that I was trying to find.
The reverse m/c allowed me to mount it upright and the crank operation still connects to the brake pedal. The alloy mount is where I got a bit creative....right in the way was the original 400/4 rear brake pivot shaft tube, butchering it out would've been just that, so to avoid cutting it, I employed it as the principle m/c mounts point.
I used some M10 threading and sleeved this out with regular nuts and a reversed flanged nyloc that sits in the tube snug, with 15mm of threading showing, enough to hold the 3mm alloy mount and take a flanged nyloc. The other end is a simple nut/spring washer to hold it all.
To avoid the bracket turning on the single bolt I've used a long M6 m/c mounting bolt which sits on the rear footpeg subframe.
It' looks a bit messy at the moment, the footpeg extender frame will be painted out and I have in mind a guard of some sort for the brake mechanism...we'll see.
I spotted this reverse crank operation and it instantly gave me the option that I was trying to find.
The reverse m/c allowed me to mount it upright and the crank operation still connects to the brake pedal. The alloy mount is where I got a bit creative....right in the way was the original 400/4 rear brake pivot shaft tube, butchering it out would've been just that, so to avoid cutting it, I employed it as the principle m/c mounts point.
I used some M10 threading and sleeved this out with regular nuts and a reversed flanged nyloc that sits in the tube snug, with 15mm of threading showing, enough to hold the 3mm alloy mount and take a flanged nyloc. The other end is a simple nut/spring washer to hold it all.
To avoid the bracket turning on the single bolt I've used a long M6 m/c mounting bolt which sits on the rear footpeg subframe.
It' looks a bit messy at the moment, the footpeg extender frame will be painted out and I have in mind a guard of some sort for the brake mechanism...we'll see.
Making great progress. That rear mount has huge leverage and if it's the main rear mount it will twist and distort with all that power. Is it possible to weld in a cross tube and weld a bracket to that?
Does that oil tank have a lower (gravity) outlet? If so, that's a killer price.
Does that oil tank have a lower (gravity) outlet? If so, that's a killer price.
NoRiders
Over 1,000 Posts
I don't get what you mean? rear mount, on the m/c? I made a similar mount on the CBX to fit an aftermarket m/c and it's fine. Plus I really didn't want to destroy the old brake pivot tube.
I should have been more clear. The motor mount you fabricated. Not a lot of force on a rear brake part of any type.
NoRiders
Over 1,000 Posts
Ah get ya....the tabs will be welded to a steel tube that sleeves the M12 threading...do you think I should shoulder the tabs with a fillet?
The front lowers I will brace with some box section as the tabs are quite long.
Thanx for the suggestion.
NoRiders
Over 1,000 Posts
I am such a messy fucker....I cannot remember if, when stripping the front caliper, I saved all the parts in the same place. So, now I'm 'missing' the pad pins and locking tab along with the spring retainer???
I'm almost positive they were'nt on the used caliper I bought but it was so long ago I cannot, for the life of me, remember or find the missing bits.
Went onto CSMNL and the brake parts, and not all of them, were approaching £50!! eff that.....
I've ordered another used caliper and m/c set off ebay and this one does include the parts I'll need....£24 and I get a spare m/c out of it too.
I'm such an idiot :/
I'm almost positive they were'nt on the used caliper I bought but it was so long ago I cannot, for the life of me, remember or find the missing bits.
Went onto CSMNL and the brake parts, and not all of them, were approaching £50!! eff that.....
I've ordered another used caliper and m/c set off ebay and this one does include the parts I'll need....£24 and I get a spare m/c out of it too.
I'm such an idiot :/
