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Sweet bike. I agree with everyone else. Keep it stock! Just clean it up.
Check with your local honda dealer for parts they can get some. EBay will have some. And use motion pro for new cables. But get fork seals from a reputable place. Make sure to measure your forks and double check before ordering. Many have reported incorrect fork seals off of eBay. All balls makes quality replacement bearings. Vintage brakes can get you new pads and resurface your drums. Make sure your tires are OK before racking up the miles. Michelin gazelles are popular tires for small hondas. Make sure to get new tubes. I wouldn't trust the old rubber.
what a beauty. +1 only make 'reversible' changes. 10 years down the line you'll be happy you didn't mess with it. It seems like, the first build is usually not the cleanest, no matter how hard you try. Maybe I'm wrong on this?
Thanks for all the input guys. So I got the forks torn down and noticed there were tons of imperfections in the aluminum so I decided to sand them down and polish them. I soda blasted off all the paint and spend numerous hours polishing and buffing. I am still not satisfied with the looks of things. The soda blaster left milky colored lines in some spots. So I and going to work those spots out by working up up on my grits and more polishing / buffing. I want these to look perfect! I am going to Sweden today for work so I will attack it when I get back.
I also noticed that the fork seals I got on EBay were the wrong size(what a surprise) so I ordered another set and they arrived today. I also ordered a new clutch cable (clutch seems a little sticky), front brake cable, and soon a throttle cable.
Thanks for all the encouragement guys! Both my wheels are off to Buchanans to get polished stainless spokes, new nipples, and polished hubs yay Merry Christmas to me! Keep you updated!
1) On my carbs I have an Idle Speed screw and an Idle Mixture Screw. I cannot figure out for the life of me if out is rich or lean on the Mixture Screw. I assume since it is on the intake side that unscrewing the screw would make it run leaner (more air)?
2) Clutch keeps coming out of adustment - any way to lock down the clutch adjustment screw a little tighter I think it might be slipping under the strain
3) Front Brake - at high speeds when I apply the front brake I get a major shuttering - feels very dangerous! I think the front drums are warped? Is there a way to re-machine the drums at home. I read something somewhere about using paint and emery paper but not sure how to do it.
4) Tires - I have the original tires on this bike. They are starting to crack so I may replace them with a nicer looking performance tire - any suggestions?
1) On my carbs I have an Idle Speed screw and an Idle Mixture Screw. I cannot figure out for the life of me if out is rich or lean on the Mixture Screw. I assume since it is on the intake side that unscrewing the screw would make it run leaner (more air)?
2) Clutch keeps coming out of adustment - any way to lock down the clutch adjustment screw a little tighter I think it might be slipping under the strain
3) Front Brake - at high speeds when I apply the front brake I get a major shuttering - feels very dangerous! I think the front drums are warped? Is there a way to re-machine the drums at home. I read something somewhere about using paint and emery paper but not sure how to do it.
4) Tires - I have the original tires on this bike. They are starting to crack so I may replace them with a nicer looking performance tire - any suggestions?
I've got nothing for you on #1-3, but I could recommend some tires. If you want to go for more of a dual sport tire with a vintage look, I highly recommend the Dunlap K70. I have them on my CL350 and they're very nice, not quite full knobby not quite smooth street. If you want more of an average street tire I've heard of a number of folks running Michelin Gazelles on their 175s. The Gazelles are crazy inexpensive ($25/each) and are rated for 90+ mph.
#2: Are you sure it's the adjustment screw? Usually when a clutch needs constant adjustment, it is the cable stretching before it snaps.
#3: I wouldn't try to hone the front drum at home. A good mechanic / machinist might be able to straighten it out (assuming there is enough material to hone it).
The procedure for setting the idle speed and adjustment screws as described in the shop manual are to set the mixture screws at their default (probably something like 1 1/4 turns from all the way in), then set the idle so that the back pressure in both pipes is the same. This might be hard on the CL. Then you turn the idle mixture screws in or out until the idle stops raising. Re set and recheck the idle speed and back pressure to get the idle speed back in range if it went out.
In practice, the CLs where the pipe joins at the muffler can be hard to check balance. I really wish they had a vacuum port on the carbs.
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