1971 cl100

pidjones

Over 1,000 Posts
I have heard of this but I wouldn’t have thought it would go back as far as this bike?


Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON
Well, at least the earliest ('75) GoldWings had a warning in the FSM about it. Stellite and Haynes coated valves were used in nuc subs back in the early 60's.
 

benroloff

Active Member
Parts from David silver spares showed up in the mail today so after work I was able to get it all thrown back together and got the ol girl running again. Did several oil flushes before starting and i will probably do one right away after breaking in the rings. Ran it for about 30 seconds before calling it a night. I did pull the oil cap to see if there was any blowby, and there is still definitely a decent amount. Not nearly as much as before, but not unsubstantial either. I made sure to set the rings 120 degrees apart, and made sure that the correct side was up, so that’s not it. I also checked the clearance between ring and ring groove in the piston, and even the top ring was within the limit, and that groove was beat up a little from the broken ring, so it was worse than the others but still not too bad. Ring gaps were within limit as well. At the end of the factory limits but still well within serviceable limit. So if it’s none of those reasons is it safe to assume that the rings just need to seat in? And on that note, does anyone have a favorite break in procedure that you like for new rings?


Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON
 

benroloff

Active Member
Well I followed a pretty generic break in procedure and have been riding it around the neighborhood for the last few days. Have only put probably 20 miles or so on it so far but it already feels pretty good. I rented a compression tester today and I got it up to around 140 psi. That was with the engine warm, but not anywhere near operating temp, so I would think it would be closer to 150 at operating temp. Fsm says to do the test with the engine warmed up and standard is 170 psi. So not quite up to factory snuff, but I’m ok with that. With some more break in I would think it should come up some more anyways.
I also mounted up my new voltage gauge today. I think it turned out nicely. Looks a little goofy maybe, but better than a digital in my personal opinion.
Image1624726249.263275.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON
 

benroloff

Active Member
And this is how she sits in her current state. Nothing spectacular, but I think it’s cool. I built another custom side cover for the left side, and put 100 badges on both sides, similar to what would have come on the bike. Both covers are definitely 10 footers, but someday maybe I’ll put some nice paint on them. It’s just been tough to get a decent match to the original from a rattle can. I still need to do exhaust shields. I am pretty pleased with how this bike is turning out for my first try at any of this stuff. I have a little experience with small engines and fab work, but this is my first go around with anything motorcycle related. Plus, purchase price included, I’m probably into this under $500 for everything, including cosmetic stuff, so that’s a nice bonus
Image1624738177.278317.jpg
Image1624738191.130939.jpg
Image1624738199.762982.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON
 

benroloff

Active Member
Neat little machine.
Is your electronic ignition in her now?

Thanks, much appreciated hearing that from a guy who won a botm with his cl100!
I did give the electronic ignition a shot the other day, but had some issues. I got it running but it wouldn’t rev up off of idle at all, so definitely some bugs to work out. I know the circuit should work though because I’ve seen the same one used successfully. I did realize after the fact that I forgot to remove the condenser when I did the test, which in my mind shouldn’t really make a difference, but it’s possible I guess that it was causing some sort of interference. I will continue testing though!


Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON
 

pidjones

Over 1,000 Posts
Condenser might change things, but sticky advance definitely woul restrict RPMs. Make sure you cut outs for the weight fingers are big enough and non-restrictive. Seems the Dyna rotor has the OD cut down in that area to prevent binding. Yours might just need a little needle file work.
 

benroloff

Active Member
So the bike has been in storage while I’ve been at school and I haven’t really had the time to work on it while I’ve been home for break, so it’ll likely just sit until I can get it home during the summer. But I do have a new set of bars for it, and maybe a new seat coming as well, so those will go on first thing, but my plan for the summer is mostly just to ride it, and figure out the electronic ignition. If I can figure that out the next step is installing a tach. This motor doesn’t have a pickup so I’ll be using the same magnet that the ignition is using to send a signal to an Arduino that will control a servo in a repurposed speedo housing. I recently acquired an sla 3D printer so that will allow me to make the necessary parts for the conversion. I’ve already made a servo mount and the needle for the gauge, though the needle needs some tweaking. Overall I’m pretty pleased with the quality of these prints being that they’re pretty much my first attempts. I also have a new face drawn up to show rpm instead of speed, however I’m having some issues getting it to print. The issue with these resin style printers is that the print can sometimes stick to the resin vat rather than the build plate, and that’s my issue right now, but I will try again tomorrow and see what happens. A small price to pay for how much detail the resin provides though if you ask me.
Image1641349966.760464.jpg
IMG_1617.JPG
IMG_1618.JPG

I am also thinking about retrying the side covers I made last year by printing them in sections(my printer isn’t big enough to do them all at once) and then glueing the sections together to make a mold for a carbon fiber cover. I have absolutely no reason to make them from carbon other than that it sounds cool and I’d like to try it out, but in all reality I will most likely end up making them from fiberglass


Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON
 

Maritime

Over 10,000 Posts
How is SLA for heat distortion. We printed a faceplate in PLA and it warped the first day out in the sun under the crystal of the speedo. Our printer doesn't do ABS well at all even though it has settings and is supposed to. It just warps all over the place.
 

benroloff

Active Member
Not sure yet but I think it’s pretty decent. You need uv light to cure the parts after they are printed, but if you go too long they can get brittle, so I would imagine that the bigger concern would be strength after sitting in the sun. My plan is to use a good paint on parts that will see the sun and hopefully that helps to protect from uv rays. From what I’ve read, most standard resins should hold up to about 110 Fahrenheit before they start to soften at all, so long term it may not last for the gauge face, but there are readily available and reasonably priced resins available that claim to be good over 300 Fahrenheit, so that could be an option. I’d be happy to print you one if I can find a way to make them last in the heat


Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON
 

benroloff

Active Member
Got the gauge face to print today. Turned out ok. The numbers need to be moved and made bigger so you can actually see them, and I realized that the servo only has 180 degrees of rotation so I need to redo the locations of the graduations so that the servo can cover the entire range of rpm, but for v1 I think it turned out ok. Obviously in the pic there’s no paint on the gauge or needle either so it’s a little tough to see everything but with paint I think it’ll be fine
Image1641435017.480834.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON
 

benroloff

Active Member
I was able to get the bike out of storage this past weekend for the first time this year, and unfortunately the battery was completely dead and the reg/rec had puked. Thankfully I knew the rec was going so I had one waiting, and the new battery is on order. With the new rectifier the bike was able to start and run even with the junk battery, and it seems to be running well. I need to replace the copper exhaust seal and do a valve set, but I feel good about where the bike is mechanically. That said, I installed a smaller front fender and flat bars this weekend too. I like the bars, looks wise and comfort wise, but I’m not sure I’m entirely sold on the fender. I think with a seat it would complete the look. I also have front end parts to convert to a disk brake, so hopefully I can get to that this summer. I’m just happy to have it home!
Image1654719255.785553.jpg
IMG_1847.JPG



Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON
 

benroloff

Active Member
In my infinite genius I accidentally cut the hole for the handlebar control wires to run through to go to the headlight on the top of the bars instead of the bottom. So to fill the gaping hole right in view of the rider,I printed up a little plug, and painted it up tonight. I think it’s actually kind of a cool little touch if you ignore the fact that it’s really just a cover up for my boneheaded-ness
Image1654740218.851179.jpg

I also painted the lettering on the handlebar controls tonight since the paint was already out. It’s the little things sometimes that make me happy lol. There’s far bigger fish to be frying on this thing right now, but progress is progress
Image1654740303.859366.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON
 

pidjones

Over 1,000 Posts
Nice little bike. Mignt help visual balance if the rear fenderwas bobbed also. But, would improve ridability if the front gave better protection.
 

Luugo86

'73 CB350, '78 XS650 Cafe Killer
The improvised fix on the handlebar is pretty cool, was wondering where you sourced that new front fender? Glad to see this little bike back out
 

benroloff

Active Member
Nice little bike. Mignt help visual balance if the rear fenderwas bobbed also. But, would improve ridability if the front gave better protection.

I have considered doing something with the rear fender as well, and I actually got a rear at the same time as the front, but it didn’t fit at all. I may chop it up to make it work yet though. I don’t want to chop up the original though. I think that would also require changing the tail light too, and I don’t have any idea what direction I’d go there. Might draw up some ideas in cad though. In terms of the front fender, this bike is hardly ridden right now anyways, much less in poor conditions, so I’m not terribly worried about the protection as of now. I will however swap back to the original if I do any off road


Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON
 

benroloff

Active Member
The improvised fix on the handlebar is pretty cool, was wondering where you sourced that new front fender? Glad to see this little bike back out

Thanks! I sourced it from aliexpress I think. Paid like $.72 for the fender and $10 to ship it lol. It’s shockingly higher quality than I was expecting. The rear fender that I bought at the same time is far worse however so it may just be a crapshoot. It’s listed as a “cg125” fender. You can also source them on eBay


Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON
 

DTT Bike Of The Month Gallery

DTT Light or Dark

www.jadusmotorcycleparts.com
shop.themotoworks.com
www.cognitomoto.com
https://www.townmoto.com
www.speedmotoco.com
www.lostapostle.ca/
www.sparckmoto.com
Top Bottom