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Thanks Brotha! Doing almost my best lol. I didnt take to much time on this engine since the new one will be going in once its done.....and I haven't done anything but disassemble it lol. think I'll shove the top case in the oven for 10 minutes when i get home and take out those stock studs Forward motion!!!!
Thinking a ton on my electronics and ways to clean/ Slightly modernize for modern conveniece
So I am scraping my Key and just got a key fob System for 10bucks shipped (my keys cost more than that to make lol)
that will open up the middle of my bars completely as I am switching to mini (2.5inch) Speedo with indicators and Tach. My Idea now is a smart phone holder between gauges and a usb charging port beneath the front edge of the tank
And the new Sexy Shorty muffler all about to be ordered
<img src="https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/7446_10151683567971591_965679393_n.jpg"/>
Here is the RFID ignition switch I will be using and the link to the EBay Store
<a href="http://stores.ebay.com/the-all-ways">The All Ways
<img src="https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/941424_10151683617356591_1831742032_n.jpg"/>
611t solid state relay
1 12v relay
RFID kit from ebay
In return, no more key just kick or start button after rubbing my bikes tail end with the bak of my riding glove. Im going to make a pocket on the back hand side of my glove for the FOB. It requires minimum 3" to activate and will work thru plastic fiberglass metal.
seems super super cheap for those keyless kits.. have you heard any reviews on product quality? will be cool if it works and is reliable, ive considered doing this on a couple bikes.
Im going to make a pocket on the back hand side of my glove for the FOB. It requires minimum 3" to activate and will work thru plastic fiberglass metal.
It will work through plastic and fiberglass maybe but it definitely doesn't work through metal. My plan was to mount mine in the rear seat hump (1.5mm steel) but not a sausage unfortunately.
seems super super cheap for those keyless kits.. have you heard any reviews on product quality? will be cool if it works and is reliable, ive considered doing this on a couple bikes.
There was another guy on here who got the same kit he said it worked. I was skeptical too so ill keep you informed. On the upside hit 100 post and got a discount on my $260 dime city order!!! Whoooo whooo
There was another guy on here who got the same kit he said it worked. I was skeptical too so ill keep you informed. On the upside hit 100 post and got a discount on my $260 dime city order!!! Whoooo whooo
Well been a while but have some awesome progress and news. The RFID units I got work great. I used one on my car and have been getting all my electrics sorted out on my bike. Ill post pictures later.
Need to update the pictures, however i did end up going back to original front forks to keep original brakes. I found it too much of a fight trying to mix and match rotors to brake brackets. Also made an electrics tray using some 22g sheet metal.
Electrics consist of
<a href="http://www.a123rc.com/goods-130-Free+Shipping+Motorcycle+Starter+Battery+LiFePO4+A123+ANR26650M1A+12V+23AH+4S1P.html">this a123rc battery</a>
<a href="http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?x=-1075&y=-74&lang=en&site=us&KeyWords=36MT80-ND">This 3-phase rectifier</a>But saw this, a 3 Phase Diode 35A Amp 1000V SQL35A on ebay thats 5 bucks cheeper free ship from china, seems better option
A 1970's Ford regulator you can learn about in <a href="http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=12465.0">This thread</a>
and everything else is stock.
Seems I'm having a problem with the 1-3 spark wires as the timing light only lights up on the #4 wire
looks like I'm going to have to check coils but I'm not to sure how to do that as of now. google and youtube here i come!
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